Quick note! I intentionally left off grip tape because I like the way it looks. I even have clear grip tape, but its so much cooler without it. If you make this project and add grip tape thats cool too! It rides just fine without it as you can see in the video. Thanks!
Go check out the quick video to see how easy this skateboard is to build as well as some shots from a camera mounted under the board while I am riding !!
I built an acrylic longboard, because why not? I had some scrap acrylic I couldn't do anything else with. I thought it would be cool to have a see through skateboard, and the final results were really cool. I avoided adding grip tape to keep the completely see through design, but it rides okay without it. Now this will not be a skateboard that will stay pristine, but isn't that the point? This thing will end up scratched up and gnarly, but then it will be even cooler.
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Step 1: Cutting the Blank
I came up with this project after I had some leftover 3/4 inch acrylic from my acrylic side table build. (You can check that out here) You can pick this stuff up at your local plastics supply. They are likely to have an offcut they can either give you, or sell on the cheap. You could probably get away with using 1/2 inch acrylic. To cut acrylic on the table saw its best if you use a plastics blade like this one.
- The skateboard is roughly 8 3/4 inches wide by 38 inches long. Set your saw blade to 8 3/4 inches, and rip a strip.
- Next measure 38 inches and cross cut the strip down to 38 inches.
Step 2: Make a Template & Transfer to Acrylic
I found a long strip of cardboard that was at least half the width of my longboard. I made a half template so my skateboard would be symmetrical. Find a shape that pleases you to make your template. I with a round, sweeping nose that tapers to a round tail.
- Measure and draw reference marks on the cardboard template to mark where you want the curve to start and stop. Then draw a curve between the two marks.
- I use an adhesive can the draw the curve on the tail.
- Connect the curve in the tail and the nose with a long gradual taper.
- Cut the template out with a box knife.
- Mark the centerline of your board. Line up the template with the centerline and trace the outline.
- Flip the template over to the other side and repeat.
Step 3: Cut the Longboard Out & Sand
I used my bandsaw and this 3/16th blade to cut out the shape of the longboard. Just cut slow and stay just outside your lines. Now sand the edges even on a belt sander. It doesn't have to be perfectly smooth yet.
Step 4: Rout a Chamfer & Sand
Rout a 45 degree chamfer on the underside on the board all the way around. I used a palm router and a chamfer bit to do this. Make sure to push against the rotation of the blade. Go slow and focus on keeping the router level on the workpiece.
Now sand the edges first with 600 grit, and then with 1200 grit sand paper until glass like.
Step 5: Mount the Trucks
- Figure you want to mount the trucks. I did not measure the distance of the trucks from the ends. I eyeballed, and went with what looked good to me. I did measure from the sides to ensure that the trucks were centered. Mark the hole locations from the top of the board.
- Using a drill press is best for this operation. Using a countersink bit drill 4 holes for each set of trucks countersinking into the top of the deck.
- Position the trucks on the underside and insert the bolts through the trucks from the top side. Attach the nut and tighten. Don't crank it down, because you don't want to crack the acrylic.
- Clean with denatured alcohol, but stay away if you flame polished the edges. (It will crack) This is why I avoid flame polishing.
Step 6: Go Shred
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