Whether you are tailgating, grilling, or at your infamous family reunion, there is one yard game that stands above the rest. Bean-bag toss is a tried and true game for all ages, and is a guarantee for a good time. Sets come in many different shapes and colors, but why buy expensive, generic store-bought sets when you can make your own? The purpose of this guide is to explain the steps necessary to make a portable board set for bean-bag toss for under $35*. The building process take about two hours and has a low level of technical difficulty. In an afternoon, you will have completed an inexpensive, and creative set with a touch your own imagination and have fun in the building process!
Note: These instructions will build one board. Repeat entire process to create second board.
*Estimated price excludes bean bags.
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Step 1: Necessary Materials and Equipment
Preparing the following tools and materials will make the building process easier and smoother.
One 6’ x 2’ piece of ¾” ply-wood
One 2' x 4'
Two simple cabinet hinges, 2 ½” wide (Screws included)
Four 2 ¼” nails
Paint and Stain (both optional)
Power drill with at least 3/8” bit, and Phillips head driver
Step 2: Creating the Board (1 of 2)
Lie the 6' x 2' plywood board flat on a workbench.
Measure 3 feet from end of 6’ x 2’ plywood board and mark with a line shown in the diagram above.
Step 3: Creating the Board (2 of 2)
Using the circular saw, cut along the line drawn in step 2 to divide the 6' x 2' board into two equal 3’ x 2’ boards. Choose one board and set it aside; it will be used to create the other board in the set.
Warning: Improper use of the circular saw may result in bodily injury or harm.
Step 4: Making the Hole Cutout (1 of 4)
With the board flat on the workbench:
Measure 9 ½” inches from the top of board and mark.
Measure 12” inches from the side of board and mark.
The intersections of these lines will center the hole to be cut in following operations.
Step 5: Making the Hole Cutout (2 of 4)
Due to the intricacy of this step, it will be shown in one frame. The image may be referenced for each of the following subsets.
a. Tie one end of the string around a pencil. A simple double knot will suffice in attaching the string to the pencil.
b. Measure about 3 ½ - 4” down the string from the knot you just made. Cut the string here with scissors. The string will provide the 3” radius of the circle
c. Tape the newly-cut end of string to the centering mark that was created in Step 4.
d. Keeping slight tension on the anchored string, draw a circle approximately 6” in diameter.
Step 6: Making the Hole Cutout (3 of 4)
Insert the 3/8" bit into the drill.
Drill a hole just on the inside of the circle created in step 7.
Step 7: Making the Hole Cutout (4 of 4)
With the board flat on the workbench:
Using the Jigsaw, insert blade into small hole created in step 6. Proceed to cut, following the circular trace from step 5.
Note: It is important to complete this step slowly and carefully. Try to focus on following the circular trace. If the blade goes off track, simply realign and continue. Minor stray cuts and blemishes can be worked out by sanding in later steps.
Warning: Improper use of the Jigsaw may cause bodily injury or harm.
Step 8: Creating the Legs (1 of 5)
Place the 2' x 4' onto the workbench.
Using the circular saw:
Cut one, 11” block (for one of the legs).
Cut one, 23” piece (will act as the bottom stand). Set aside 23” piece for later use.
Warning: Improper use of the circular saw may cause bodily injury or harm.
Step 9: Creating the Legs (2 of 5)
Determine which side of the board looks better. Put this side down on the workbench.
*For the next 5 steps you will be working on what is to be the underside of the board.
Measure and mark lines 3” from top and ¾” from the side, with board orientated as pictured above.
Step 10: Creating the Legs (3 of 5)
Insert the phillips head driver into the drill.
With the board flat on the workbench, "good-side" down:
Using the 1/2" - 3/4" screws, screw one hinge into the top of the face of one 11” block. Line up the corner of the hinge with the intersections of marks made in step 9. Screw the other part of the hinge into the underside of the board.
Note: Ensure that when the hinge is opened to a 90-degree angle the top of the 11" block lies flush with the underside of the board.
If not, it may be necessary to remove the screws from the block, adjust, and refasten.
Caution: If the block does not lie even with the underside it will put too much stress on the hinge, which may cause buckling or damage to the finished product.
Caution: Be sure to use ½” – ¾” screws. Longer screws or over tightening may cause screws to penetrate the top of the board, damaging the final product.
Step 11: Creating the Legs (4 of 5)
Repeat Steps 8 - 10 to attach the other leg.
Step 12: Creating the Legs (5 of 5)
Keep the board "good-side" down on the workbench.
Get the 23" piece of 2' x 4' cut in step 8.
Line it up so that it is 1/2" from the bottom edge of the underside of the board and ½” from each side.
Using the hammer and four nails, attach the 23" piece by pounding 4 nails through it and into the underside of the board.
Caution: Using nails that are too long may cause damage to the board.
Step 13: Sanding
Using sandpaper, remove sharp corners or splinters around all edges, including the 6" diameter hole.
Step 14: Painting and Staining (Optional)
After sanding, wipe down the board with a damp paper towel or cloth.
Apply your desired paint and desired number of coats.
Be sure to allow the paint to dry completely before applying ay stain or finish.
Warning: Painting and staining should be done in a well ventilated area, as fumes can be dangerous to inhale.
Step 15: Ready to Play!
After following these instructions you should be able to build the board set for beanbag toss, an all-American past time. Add a creative paint job of your favorite team or any sketch you like! You are ready to pop up the legs on your portable set and play. Hopefully you enjoyed building. Above all though, I hope you can enjoy the game of beanbag toss on your own, homemade set!