Introduction: CALIFORNIA KING PLATFORM BED
My daughter-in-law asked if I could make her and my son a California King bed frame with lots of storage. I said, "Sure,"
Step 1: PLANS FOR a CALIFORNIA KING BED
I've been a fan of Steve Ramsey for years. He makes things easy to follow. I downloaded his plans and followed them.
The plans list all materials along with a cut chart.
IMPORTANT: DOUBLE CHECK ALL YOUR MEASUREMENTS. WOOD THICKNESSES VARY. USE JIGS AND STOPS TO GET VERY ACCURATE CUTS AND SPACING. I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH.
Step 2: TOOLS
Here are the tools needed to complete this project.
Pocket hole jig and bits
Screw gun and various screws
Compressor and nail gun
Stain using rags and brushes
Step 3: I WORKED IN SECTIONS
I worked in sections, doing the exterior frames for each box first. I cut the pieces to size.
Step 4: I ASSEMBLED THE TWO BOX FRAMES
Using my assembly table and pocket hole jig and lots of pocket screws I assembled the two box frames.
Step 5: DRAWER RUNNERS AND GUIDES
As I assembled the sections I made jigs to help align the runners and guides. I spent extra time studying the plans and labeling pieces. Where I didn't use pocket screws I used my brad nailer to hold boards in place while the glue set.
Step 6: STAINING
Once the two mirror image frames were completed I coated the wood with pre-stain then stained it. When that had thoroughly dried I gave it a coat of poly. Sanded when dry and added a second coat.
Step 7: DRAWERS
The plans for the drawer construction use 3/4" plywood. I used 1/2" plywood. I used 1/4" masonite for the drawer bottoms. I've used masonite before on other projects calling for a drawer bottom. It makes a really nice, smooth interior.
Here is where I ignored the cut guide and measured each piece myself. I assembled each drawer using glue and brads. I rabbeted the bottom of each drawer for the masonite to fit flush to the bottom. I double and triple checked for square.
I applied paste wax to both the bottom of the drawers and the guides they slide on. There are a total of 6 drawers.
Step 8: DRAWER FACES
The drawer faces in the plans called for ripping down 1 x 10s to 8". I didn't. I left them at 9 1/4. No knobs were used since they stick out too far and someone could hurt themselves. Instead, I routed a finger pull on the edges, even on the fixed drawer faces. I experimented with a round over bit for a finger pull and a cove bit, too. The one I settled on was a rabbet. Then I stained and polyed them, sanding up to 320 grit between coats.
Step 9: THE PARTS
Two box frames. Six drawers. There are actually spots for two more drawers where the end tables are at the head of the bed. I can always add these if they become necessary. I didn't make any dummy drawer faces for the back of the bed. This will be against the wall and not visible. Also, I might be building a headboard if my kids want it.
Step 10: ATTACHING THE DRAWER FACES
To ensure even spacing I made some spacers, held the drawer faces up to the spacers and secured with brads to hold the faces in place and screws to secure them. I set the drawers aside. You can see the false drawer faces on the box frames.
Step 11: MATTRESS SUPPORT
I made the mattress support from 1/2" plywood. Yes, I did cut another piece.
Step 12: YOU GOT TO MOVE IT, MOVE IT...
My son and daughter-in-law live twenty-five minutes away. We loaded the plywood and box sections into a borrowed truck. I loaded the drawers into my SUV. We all drove to their home. Then we carried the parts up three flights of stairs into their bedroom. I screwed the two frames together and we put on the mattress and slid in the drawers and it was done.
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