Introduction: Cabinet for Kitchen Trash Barrel
1: Wood Glue - i recommend this Titebond because its quality with a very strong bond
2: Pocket hole screws - if you use 3/4" plywood for your cabinet i would recommend 1 1/4" screws but the kreg jig will come with all those details
3: 3/4" Plywood - (birch, oak, maple) Use a hard wood plywood for your project (maples my favorite so ill link that)
4: 1/4" plywood - Match what you get for the 3/4"
5: Maple Board - Im Using maple as an example but make sure you use a Hard wood of your own choice!! this will be for the trim on the face
6: Drawer tracks - don't cheap out on these!! if you throw out a lot of heavy trash, i would recommend doubling up your tracks. one set in the middle and another set on the bottom.
1: Kreg Jig- can be found at lowes and on amazon, this jig is amazing!
2: Cordless drill - corded drill would work for the kreg jig but wouldn't recommend for pocket screws because of it's high power (don't want to over spin screws) cheaper dewalt drill in the link
3: Table Saw OR Circular Saw with a clamped straight edge - remember cuts have to be perfectly straight and square!!!
^^ you can use a straight board and clamps for straight edge
4: Jig Saw - to cut out the toe kick at the bottom of the cabinet
5: Chop Saw - not 100% needed but convenient to have (could use the jig saw or circular saw, if you have a steady hand)
6: Router Table - for making all the trim pieces
7: Tape Measure and Square
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Step 1: Measure Twice!
Number 1 rule, measure twice and cut once. Find your opening dimensions, sit back and draw some blue prints.
Measure the opening Height x Width x Depth.
Measure an existing cabinets toe kick at the bottom of the cabinet.
when drawing up your blue prints you have to think about the steps of assembling it, check if the cabinet has trim or if it is trim less (This cabinet style i am making was for a trim-less set of cabinets).
The opening width i was working with was 15" - each side wall of my carcus was 3/4" - i also wants to hold 1/8" of play to be abled to slide the cabinet in easier. This gives the inside of the cabinet an opening width of 13 3/8"
(15"- 3/4"- 3/4" -1/8" = 13 3/8")
Now that i have the inside opening width i need to check out the thickness of my drawer tracks, mine were roughly 1/2" but you need them on both sides making that 1" of space you need for track from side to side.
(13 3/8"- 1"= 12 3/8") INSIDE OPENING WIDTH WITH TRACKS (trash barrel/ shelfs width)
now for the depth of the cabinet on average they're made too 2' or in inches 24" but if the existing cabinets have trim thats roughly (3/4" to 1") thick and you have the back board (3/4" thick) that would make 22" drawer tracks perfect side with a little play from front to back when installing.
(24"- 1"= 23" depth for the sides IF YOU HAVE TRIM ON EXISTING CABINETS) (24" IF TRIM-LESS)
match the depth of the drawer to the length of the tracks
height varies to your opening to countertop (can't remember the exact height of this project)
When building the shelf/ trash barrel holder make it to the height of the bottom of the lip of your trash barrel
When cutting toe kicker into the bottom of you sides you want to make sure you cut deep enough for existing baseboard to land flush when installed
Step 2: Prep Work
Once you have all your measurements then your ready to start making the pieces, use the circular saw or table saw for the longer cuts, use the jig saw for the toe kick and the cut out on the top shelf for the trash bin to slide into( i traced the lid then marked out 1/4" offset inside of those marks to match the lid over hang), and the kreg jig to drill out for your pocket hole screws. the reg jig will have a ring on the drill bit you can slide up and down the bit with an allan wrench, adjust to the size screw/ plywood thickness you are using, Try on scrap wood first!
once you have drilled all your pocket holes and are ready to start putting it together, make sure you put a nice even coat of wood glue in-between all the seems and screw them.
a trick for the drawer tracks is to cut a small board from the bottom of the cabinet to the bottom of the track as a cleat for screwing them in - this will give you the same elevation making them level as long as everything is square.
For making the faces, i had to match the existing faces. i took once of the doors off the cabinet and brough it back to the shop. i imagine not everyone will have the correct routing bits as i didn't ether, so it may take some time patience and a lot of pass throughs!
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