Intro: Captain Hook Coat- Modifying a Pattern
My husband has talked about wanting to be Captain Hook for a few years, but I've always been focused on our kids costumes that I never got around to sewing his coat.
This year I decided I would make his Captain Hook coat as a surprise birthday gift. (Isn't that what everyone wants for their birthday :))
I used a McCall's pattern and modified it to make it look like Captain Hook's coat and shirt. My husband loved it and is excited to wear it for many Halloweens to come.
Step 1: Supplies
-McCall's pattern #6143- I made Coat A. Use the measurements guide on the back of the pattern to determine which size to buy. I'm making this coat for my husband and he is a size medium. These patterns go on sale regularly for around $2 at JoAnn Fabrics, so watch for sales.
-Red Fabric- the pattern recommends a cotton fabric. I bought 100% cotton red velvet fabric. On the back of the pattern by Coat A under your size it will tell you how much fabric to get. Get a little extra fabric if you want to lengthen the coat, and for the extra folded up cuffs. I bought about 3 yards of fabric. Look for coupons to use, buying that much fabric can get expensive.
-Gold/Yellow Satin Blanket Binding- to go around the front edge of the coat.
-Gold Buttons- I ended up using 3 buttons, the pattern calls for 4.
-Needle- sharp and sturdy for heavier fabrics, I'm using a 90 needle.
-Moderate Sewing Skills
Step 2: Follow the Pattern
Follow the pattern and apply the modifications as listed for a Captain Hook Coat.
Cut out the Fabric:
-Cut out the pattern pieces- tip I like to iron my pieces to flatten them, it helps them to lay flat while cutting the fabric. I didn't put pockets on this coat, so you don't need to cut those out.
-Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric according to the diagram in the pattern instructions, pin it, and cut out the fabric pieces. I added 2 inches to the bottom of the coat using the lengthening places on the pattern.
-Mark the markings. Cut a notch where there are triangles, mark the darts with a washout fabric pencil, or marking chalk, and mark the sleeve dots.
Sew the Coat:
-Sew the back of the coat.
-Sew on the Facing- I did not add the fusible interfacing. (You could possibly skip the facing part since later on you will add the binding around this edge. Though the facing does make for a nicer, sturdier edge.)
-Sew on the Sleeves- do not finish the lower edge of the sleeve, this is where you will add the cuff later on.
-Hem the bottom of the coat.
Step 3: Sew on Gold Binding
The yellow/gold binding around the front and neck edge of the coat is a very identifiable part of the Disney Captain Hook's Coat.
Note- I first tried just using ribbon and starting at one bottom edge of the coat and sewing it up and around the other edge of the coat. This turned out to be a poorly thought out idea, and ended with a lot of unpicking. The ribbon itself was hard to sew on, and sewing it this way didn't work of course because the neck part of the coat curves making it so that the ribbon didn't lay flat and kind of scrunched and curled around the neck as well as down the other side of the coat. This looked really bad and caused the edge of one side to curl inward. So, if you're thinking of just starting at one end and not pinning it on beforehand, be warned, it's a bad idea.
After unpicking all of the ribbon, I thought things out better and redid the edge using blanket binding, which sewed on better. Following is the a more correct way to do it:
-Cut a length of blanket binding that will go around the front edges and neck of the coat, with a little extra.
-Start at the top middle of the neck and pin the binding onto the coat sandwiching the coat edge between the folded binding.
-Create tucks or scrunches to curve the binding around the neck and down each side. It should lay flat going down each side. Make sure to pin it all beforehand. Make sure it is pinned with the fabric and binding taut otherwise you can end up with extra binding that messes things up.
-Fold up the bottom of the binding on the inside of the coat.
-Sew the binding to the coat close to the edge of the binding making sure to sew both the top and bottom binding pieces. Sew along the bottom edge of the binding and coat.
-Sew on the buttons and button holes.
Step 4: Cuff and Faux Shirt Sleeve Ruffle
Captain Hook's coat has a big cuff that is folded up at the end of the sleeve. I wanted to add that kind of cuff to the coat, so I made my own cuff pattern. Attached is the pattern. When printing it, make sure to click the "Actual Size" button so it prints the correct size.
-Fold your fabric over, and lay the pattern on the fold where it indicates. Pin the pattern and cut out the fabric cuff piece. You'll need to cut 4 cuffs like this.
-Lay one cuff piece on top of another cuff piece right sides together matching the top and bottom edges and pin.
-Sew a 5/8 inch seam along the top. Then clip the curve.
-Open up the two cuff pieces and fold them in half sideways right sides together matching up the side edges.
-Sew a 5/8 inch seam down the side edge. Press open the seam.
-Fold over with right sides out, and press the top seam.
Faux Shirt Sleeve Ruffle
We live in a warm climate, so I wanted to add something to the coat that would make it look like my husband was wearing a long sleeve shirt under the coat, but without him actually having to wear a long leave shirt. So I added these faux shirt sleeve ruffles and the faux shirt front. These additions worked great and made it so he didn't get so hot while wearing the coat.
-Cut a big circle. I used a kitchen bowl with a diameter of 15 inches as a guide. I traced the bowl with pencil, then cut the fabric.
-Cut an inner circle in the middle with the same circumference or bigger as the bottom of the coat sleeve. I cut mine bigger, so I then did a basting stitch around the edge, and gathered it to the size of the sleeve edge.
-Hem the outer edge of the big circle with a rolled hem.
Sewing it All Together
-Turn the sleeve inside out. (Wrong side facing out.)
-Put the faux shirt sleeve ruffle over the sleeve with the right side facing out, and line up the edge.
-Put the cuff over the faux shirt sleeve ruffle and line up the edge.
-Pin all the layers together and sew a 5/8 inch seam around the edge.
- Turn the sleeve right side out and fold the cuff up with the shirt sleeve ruffle down. Press around the bottom of the cuff.
Step 5: Faux Shirt Front
-Cut a large triangular piece of white fabric. (See picture for shape.) My top long side was about 35 inches long and my short side was about 18 inches long, though I ended up cutting quite a bit off, so I think 15 inches for the short side would have been good. You can measure from the neck down to how long you want it, plus a little extra for hems and seams, and use that as your short side measurement.
-Hem the short side and the angled side with a rolled hem. Leave the top long side unhemmed.
-Fold the angled side back and forth on top of itself matching up the long side edge.
-Sew across the top edge pleating as you sew to create more of a gathered top edge.
-Cut a long piece of white fabric long enough to tie around your neck, and about 4 inches wide.
-With right sides of the long piece of fabric together, sew a 5/8 inch seam down the long edges, leaving an opening in the middle the width of the top of your ruffled piece.
-Turn the tube right side out.
-Insert the ruffle piece into the tube and sew across the opening sewing the top of the ruffle piece inside the tube/tie part.
-Finish off the ends of the ties by folding a little bit inside and sewing across the end.
Ta-Da! Now you can tie the faux shirt front around your neck, put on your coat, and look like you are wearing a fancy long sleeved shirt underneath your coat, but you're really not.
Step 6: Finished
You're done with your Captain Hook coat! Admire your work, and enjoy your costume.