Here is a chisel cabinet I made to hold a 9 piece chisel set. Made with mostly scraps or picked from dumpsters I think this unit will serve me well for many years to come.
Step 1: Gather Your Materials
This cabinet is made with a poplar frame, plexiglass door and some type of aluminum sided plastic panels. The aluminum sided panels and the plexi, I got form a local plastic companies dumpster. The wood was leftover from other projects.
I used various tools for this project including table saw, miter saw, drill press, sanders and cordless drill.
I got the basic size of the cabinet by laying the chisels neatly next to one another and measuring how much width the cabinet would need as well as depth and height. I also wanted a small shelf above the chisels to hold sharpening tools and supplies.
Step 2: Cut the Frame and the Back Panel
Cut the sides, and back panel for the cabinet. There isn't much to explain here. Just make sure your machines are square and proper angles are set. I used a standard miter joint for this cabinet. Some might question the strength of this joint for this purpose but I am including a lot of wood cross-members and back mounting rail that will add a significant amount of strength to the whole thing.
After they are all cut to length I sanded the boards up to 220 grit.
Next, I cut a dado groove (thick enough to hold the back panel) along the back edge of all the frame pieces as well as the cross groove for the shelf I want to add.
Step 3: Glue and Clamp the Frame
I used yellow wood glue and strap clamps for this. Just glue the corners, do not glue the grooves. Clamp it all together with strap clamps
and don't touch it for 20-30 minutes.
While it was clamped, I measured and cut the material for the door and the chisel rails.
Step 4: Make Rails to Secure the Chisels
I want this to hang on the wall and hold the chisels securely. So I made a system of rails to accomplish this.
There is a bottom rail and mid-way up the chisel there is a cradle type rail.
Starting with the bottom rail, I placed the chisels on top of a 1/2" thick piece of 1" oak. This helped to hold the chisels in a flat resting position with no wobble. Next I placed a 3/4" wide 1/2" thick slat on top of the chisel blade at the bottom of the cab and marked where the blades location would be. Then I used my table saw to eat away about 3/16ths of the thickness away to allow the blades of the chisel to slip under. I then glued that to rail under the chisel blades at the bottom. Now glue the bottom rail in place and let it dry.
Now you can work on the upper cradle rail.
I measured the diameter of the chisels and found a forsnter bit the same diameter. I then measured and marked the holes for all of the chisels and using the drill press I drilled them. Next, I need to cut away a portion of this rail to open the holes. I simply used the table saw and ripped it leaving about 2/3rds of the hole. Then using the band saw I cleaned the holes up and sanded them. NOTE:Repeat this process for the door handle cradle.
After you have his done position the rail and dry fit the chisels to ensure proper fit and screw through the back panel into the rail to secure it in position. NOTE Make sure you go in between the chisel handle slots.
Step 5: Make a Door for the Cabinete
The door is made from clear plexiglass hinged at the bottom corners to allow the door to swing down and open. Measure up from the bottom of the cabinet to the top of the chisel cradle rail and the width of the opening then subtract 1/4" from each dimension (this will allow for movement and room for the door to open and close without binding.
Its pretty straight forward. I placed the second handle cradel on top of the mounted one, then placed the plexiglass on top of that to ensure a good fit. I used 1/8" spacers along the bottom and sides to hold it center and then glued the handle across the top of the handle cradle,, clamped it up and let it dry. after it dried, I screwed the handle rail assembly to the plexiglass.
After the door is assembled make sure all the chisels are in their place and lay the door in place. On the bottom and under the bottom corners I placed 1/4" thick spacers and lightly clamped it together to make it hinge. The door swings open downward so at the two lower corners on the side I drilled a pilot hole for a screw to snugly tighten into. I don't drive the screw all the way in, I just go deep enough to mark the plexiglass. Then using a larger bit, drill into the plexiglass sides about 1/4" or deep enough to accept the entire length of the screw that sticks out for the hinge point.
Step 6: Finish and Add a Shelf
I cut and fit a shelf, sanded to 340 grit all over and then gave it a thorough rub down with paste wax let it sit for 20 minutes and wiped it off.
Place all the chisels in their proper place and mount it to your wall. I added a custom latch to lock the unit closed.
Participated in the