C�mo Cambiar Un Mandril (how to Change a Drill Chuck)





Introduction: C�mo Cambiar Un Mandril (how to Change a Drill Chuck)

About: I am leaving Instructables, soon. I am very upset with the turnaround that has the page to post the manufacture of a dildo. Me llamo Osvaldo Julio Schiavoni I speak Spanish, not English. I use automatic tr...

Supongo que debe haber muchos de ustedes que tienen un taladro con el mandril averiado o poco útil, y les gustaría cambiarlo por uno mejor, pero no saben cómo hacerlo. A mí me sucedió eso hace unos años, y descubrí que no es nada difícil, solamente hay que conocer un pequeño secreto.

La semana pasada estaba yo trabajando con mi viejo taladro barato made in China, cuando súbitamente, sin haberlo esforzado más de lo normal, comenzó a fallar, a chisporrotear y a largar una humareda por los agujeros de ventilación. Obviamente, se quemó el motor. No me molestó demasiado porque al fin y al cabo duró casi 8 años, y por el precio que pagué por él, no se puede pedir milagros.

Hoy a la tarde me di una vueltita por Walmart y me compré otro taladro de esos baratos chinos, pero el mandril no es de los que a mí me gustan, de esos que se ajustan a mano sin necesidad de herramienta. No importa –me dije– en casa le pongo el mandril del que se quemó. Efectivamente, así ocurrió, y acá les cuento cómo se hace.

I guess there must be many of you who have a broken or unhelpful drill chuck, and would like to change for another better, but do not know how. That happened to me a few years ago, and found that it is not difficult, you just have to know a little secret.

Last week I was working with my old cheap Chinese drill, when suddenly, without having done more force than usual, it began to fail, to sizzle and emit smoke by ventilation holes. Obviously, the motor burned. Do not bother me too much because after all it lasted nearly 8 years, and for the price I paid for it, you can not ask for miracles.

This afternoon I took a little walk to Walmart and bought another of those cheap Chinese drills, but the chuck is not that I like, those that fit by hand without tools. No matter, I told myself; at home I put the chuck from the burned drill. Indeed, it happened, and here I'll tell you how.

Step 1: Qu� Se Necesita (what You Need)

En primer lugar, al menos un taladro cuyo mandril no funcione o no sea conveniente. Además, un mandríl que sí querramos usar en su reemplazo. Destornillador phillips y/o plano, una pinza bien chata para sujetar el eje (tiene que poder entrar en la ranura debajo del mandril), y eventualmente una morza de banco.

First, at least a drill chuck which does not work or is not appropriate. In addition, a chuck who do want to use in its place. Phillips and/or flat screwdriver, rather flat pliers to hold the shaft (must be able to enter in the slot below the chuck), and eventually a vise grip.

Step 2: Manos a La Obra (hands at Work)

Lo primero que hay que hacer es extraer el mandril a reemplazar. Yo tuve que extraer ambos, por las razones ya explicadas en la introducción. Para hacerlo hay que abrirlo a su máxima posibilidad, en mi caso 13 mm. En el fondo del agujero donde iría la mecha, se ve un tornillo "bisexual" (con cabeza phillips y plana al mismo tiempo). EL SECRETO PRINCIPAL: ese tornillo es de rosca izquierda, o sea que si insistimos en aflojarlo como se hace con un tornillo "normal", lo que haremos será apretarlo cada vez más, y posiblemente romperlo, perdiendo así la posibilidad de hacer el reemplazo.

The first thing to do is remove the chuck to replace. I had to remove both, for the reasons explained in the introduction. To do this you have to open it to its maximum potential, in my case 13 mm. In the bottom of the hole where the bit would go, there is a "bisexual" screw (phillips and flat head at the same time). THE MAIN SECRET: that screw is left hand thread, so if you insist on loosening as with a screw "normal", what you will do is tighten it more and more, and possibly break it, thus losing the possibility of replacement.

Step 3: Extrayendo El Mandril (extracting the Mandrel)

OTRO SECRETITO: ahora el mandril quedó atornillado con rosca normal, por lo que hay que sujetar el eje con una pinza chata y girarlo hacia la izquierda normalmente. En mi caso, el taladro nuevo aflojó al primer intento, pero el que yo estaba utilizando se había "clavado", y tuve que desarmarlo y apretar el mandril en la morza, y hacer girar el eje con la pinza para poder sacarlo. Son los gajes del oficio, sin los cuales todo sería muy aburrido.

ANOTHER LITTLE SECRET:: now the chuck is screw threaded normal, so you have to hold the shaft with a flat pliers and rotate it to the left normally. In my case, the new drill loosened at the first try, but that I was using was "stuck" and I had to take it apart and tighten the chuck on the vise grip, and rotate the shaft with pliers to remove it. These are the tricks of the trade, without which everything would be boring.

Step 4: Colocando El Mandril (placing the Chuck)

Es casi redundante decir que la colocación del mandril de reemplazo (y no digo "el nuevo mandril" porque en mi caso es justamente al revés) es invertir los pasos  del punto anterior. Es decir: primero enroscar el mandril, apretarlo lo suficiente para que quede firme, abrirlo al máximo y luego colocar y apretar el tornillo de rosca izquierda que lo mantendrá en su posición. NO OLVIDAR QUE SE ENROSCA AL REVÉS. Eso es todo.

It is almost redundant to say that the placement of replacement chuck (and do not say "the new chuck" because in my case is just the reverse) is to reverse the steps above. That is, first screw the chuck, tight enough for a secure fit. then open at maximum position and then screw the left screw will keep it in place. DO NOT FORGET THAT IT ROTATES BACKWARDS. That's all.



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    26 Discussions

    I had to do this once many years ago. Your Instructable should be very helpful to anyone who needs to do the same in the future. I smiled that you wrote about a cheap Chinese drill. The Chinese are known all over the world for cheap, low quality goods. One day there will be more Chinese on Instructables and we will not be allowed to write unflattering things about their products.

    6 replies

    To buy Chinese products are like to buy a lottery bill. Almost always they are low quality, but sometimes they are very good . Even, sometimes you must throw them to the waste.

    But warning, Japanese product was so at 1960's, they breaked the market in many categories, and today are respectable.

    USA products are very good, but also expensive. Here in Argentina we have all the low quality products that the world manufacture. Example: the only screwdriver tip that I can use is one buyed in Italy, it is hard steel. Those buyed here lasts until the first obstinate screw.

    I think Chinese products are not of low quality, but of a lower quality, and also much cheaper that western brands.

    What I mean is that with a Chinese tool you will be able to do many of the things the tool is supposed to do, but not all, or not for the same length of time. I will say that with a Chinese tool you may easily cover 85% or 90% of your needs.

    So for most of the time, or for almost all the time, your needs are covered, because the times you will need a better tool are only a small part of the whole. For these things you will not be able to do, you are given the chance to pay much less.

    One learns with trial and error. If you have a Chinese drill, dont push it too much, because it will burn. Letting it operate for many minutes and under stress is a way to push it. For your trouble to stop more often and let the tool cool down, you are given the chance to buy a cheap tool, and wait for better days.

    But there is also the bad Chinese tool. A Chinese pocket knife I bought, lasted only for playing and cutting just one softdrink can. Then it fall apart.

    I must disagree, I have had to use cheap Chinese garbage on Job sites, they have failed on the first try. I went back to one store 3 times, the guy said no refunds so he gave me new ones . Afr the 3rd time he broke down and refunded my money.

    American/german/italian/english/swiss/most european tools are reasonable if not perfect for years and years. Japanese tools I am not enamored with. Their chisel are just mediocre, if not outright crap. Their big chisels are made with crap steal forged onto a tip pf good steel, then sharpened(or at least that was the claim) they all chipped or bend over use.

    If you live here is USA buy expensive American tools made here and get over it. Tools steel quality is very important. If was not made here or Europe it is probably crap.

    Case in point. One time we were going to do a job using 4 inch gal. steel pipe, cut and thread to install electric for a sub basement to the 4 floor of a building in Manhattan We were given a pack of 8 normal blades, and a pack of 100 china specials, we found out we literally could cut 1 pipe once and then had to throw out the blade, to dull to even use as a drywall cutting blade.

    nuff said, except buy crap expect crap results, expect failure when you least expect it.

    nice instructable though


    Spark master, you are ALMOST right. Some chinese tools are VERY GOOD, but generally they are very low quality. Now I have them only for emergency, in case the "normal" tool fails or misplaces.

    I agree, completely.

    Often are confused Taiwanese (almost Chinese) with Chinese. I think Taiwanese products are a little better, I have a very good screwdrivers set since 1970 or so, they are good steel, good plastic, and well shaped. But some months ago I buyed a Chinese drill bits set for masonry, and I had to throw it away.

    We have the same problems finding quality in the USA. Fewer things are being made in the USA. Many products once made in the USA are now made in Mexico, China, or other parts of the Pacific Rim. The quality may be good, but more often it is not.

    Hah! I did exactly the opposite rimar! I have a drill attachment that fits on a keyed chuck, so had to take off the keyless chuck that came with my drill. I'll take a photo of the attachment later this weekend and post it here.

    5 replies

    Finton, I don't understand why you had to change a keyless chuck for a keyed one. Thanks for comment.

    Here are the photos rimar. The "Skil Bit Click" attachment lets me drill a hole or a few, then drive the screws without having to change what's in the drill's chuck. Sometimes you have to drill one hole then put in a scew before doing the next one.

    The Bit Click is easily removed by pushing the collar with one's thumb while pulling the whole thing off the drill. I bought this years ago, and would not be without it. I have taped the chuck key to the drill's cable, so it is always available.

    For some reason these appear to be no longer made, but they are on places like ebay.


    Oh, it also makes a really great screwdriver by itself! With its big collar, you can get really good torque.

    Interesting tool, here in Argentina I've never seen.

    Anyway, you can use it with a keyless chuck.

    I see on the Web that some keyless chucks are quite narrow, so that the Bit Click might fit over them, but mine was more like this and was too big. In any case, the BC needs the three key holes for its spring loaded ball bearings to lock into.

    Anyway, I still had to do the same as your instructable above, and could have done with such clear instructions as yours. Another great i'ble from rimar!

    ScreenHunter_ 140210 07.3847.jpg

    Gracias. Quiero darte las gracias porque he visto un par de videos de youtube y yahoo respuestas de como quitar el mandril, pero pese a ses no pude. Pero gracias a este tutorial, Pude retirar el mandril al pasarme lo mismo sobre eso de los gajes del oficio.

    1 reply

    Bueno, me alegro de que te haya servido mi explicación.

    A veces se hace difícil explicar una tarea manual, uno se embarulla en las palabras intentando aclarar, y termina siendo como las instrucciones de Mecánica Popular, que no las entiende ni el que las hizo. Me pasó eso especialmente en mi instructable sobre duelas, que no sé cómo decir claramente lo de los ángulos involucrados.

    Sos un bicho raro, compatriota, el agradecimiento ya casi no se estila...

    Un abrazo.

    Parece sencillo pero no lo es, a no ser que se sepa lo de la rosca izquierda!!
    Ahora entiendo por que nunca le pudimos sacar el mandril al taladro del Ale.
    Vi tus otros post y te felicito, cada vez queda menos gente que haga "cosas".

    1 reply

    Yo me di cuenta de casualidad, porque el mandril de un taladro que estaba usando empezó a aflojarse solo. El método es inteligente, por lo sencillo y efectivo.

    Gracias por el comentario.

    Parece sencillo pero no lo es, a no ser que se sepa lo de la rosca izquierda!!
    Ahora entiendo por que nunca le pudimos sacar el mandril al taladro del Ale.
    Vi tus otros post y te felicito, cada vez queda menos gente que haga "cosas".

    I find that an easy way of unscrewing the chuck is to clamp an Allen key into the chuck, and hit it with a hammer to loosen it.

    1 reply

    It seems difficult to me, because the chuck is screwed clockwise, but fastened counter-clockwise with another little screw. That screw usually is very tight.

    In fact, last time I could not loose it... Maybe I try to do that later using heat.