Introduction: Collapsible Drum Style Rod Dryer
If you are like me, a rod builder with bigger ideas than your current pocket book and space will allow, then you are reading the right Instructable. I searched everywhere for even a path to follow when starting this build and there was only a few pictures here and there to go off of.
There were two other things that I wanted in this project. I wanted the rod dryer to be light and modular. Being that I had no starting point, this build took longer than it should have and took several reworkings. This is why I am taking the time to write this though so you don't have to go through this.
One last thought... This is meant to be a foundation for a build with approximate measurements, materials, and construction. This is by no means the best way to go about this. Almost all of the materials I sourced from what I already had with the exception of one piece that was $5 and was most certainly a happy accident.
Foam board Insulation (at least 1") - I used 2" because that what I had laying around.
1" PVC length varies (at least 2 pieces at 20")
1" Internal PVC Coupling
6 to 36 RPM Rotisserie/turntable motor: - I used a 6 RPM motor, but buy or use whatever is practical for you
Plug in cord with Switch ( Search 6rpm turntable motor with cord on amazon, There are lots of options)
Scrap wood ( 1" X boards and 2"X boards are useful) - I used two 1X8 pine boards at 14" to 18" and two 2X4 boards at 8"
1- 1" dowel at 2"
16 - 4" dowel at 1/8"
2 part epoxy
2 - 1/4" screws
Drill and/or Impact driver
Sawzall/hack saw/ handsaw
1 1/4" and 2" hole saw bits for drill
Assorted drill bits
Snap Knife (or other tool for cutting foam board)
nail, string, marker
Teachers! Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.
Step 1: Cutting Out the Drum
First decide the Diameter you want your drum. We went with 12 inches diameter, a 12 inch diameter drum with 8 rod slots is plenty for any hobbyist making their own rod dryer. The easiest thing to do would be take some string tie one end to a nail and the other to a marker, Making sure the distance between the nail and the marker tip is 12". Then mark out two circles in your foam board. Cut the foam circle out using a long snap knife blade or any other cutting method you choose.
We used this website to print out a template https://www.blocklayer.com/circle-divider.aspx. We have included a screen shot of the dimensions used to mark out a 12" drum and the 8 notches used to seat the handles. Use the printed out template to place the center-point over the center point on your foam cut outs and punch mark the center of each of the twelve notches.
Step 2: Finish the Drum
Take the foam circles and stack them and line them up, then take the 1 1/4" hole saw and cut a hole through the center of the top foam circle making sure that YOU DO go through slightly to the second foam circle. This ensures the drum when completed is lined up properly. Remove the foam plug from the hole saw, then cut the center of the second circle using the mark made from the first hole cut.
Take one circle and set it aside. You should have one circle in front of you with 8 punch marks in it and a center cut out. Use the 1 1/4" hole saw and place the centering bit on the punch mark. You will notice that the hole saw hangs off the edge, This is intended as you are making notches, not holes.
Once you are done with that, grab your second circle and a cutting implement and make an incision at each of the 8 punch marks about 1" to 2" down from the edge. These slots will be used to hold the tip of the rod.
Lastly, there has to be some way to retain the rod handles in the notches. We used 4" long pieces of 1/8" aluminum rod (wood dowel works too) and pushed two in per notch and use them to hold a rubber band. I pre drilled holes slightly smaller before we punched them through. It just makes for a more tidy looking drum. (This is just an example of what you could do.)
Step 3: The Support Shaft
This part is fairly simple. Cut two lengths of PVC. The reason for cutting two lengths is that when you aren't using the dryer you can take it apart and store it easier.We initially cut my first piece of PVC too short, so we cut a second length of PVC the same length as the first and bought the internal coupling. We ended up liking this better than a single shaft just do to the fact it is easier to store.
Take the dowel and one of the collars for the motor (supplied with the motor from amazon) measure the size of the head (Mine was just over 3/8" so we drilled a hole in the end of the dowel about 1/4" deep and dry fitted the collar to make sure it was a snug fit.
then mix some 2-part epoxy fill the hole in the end of the dowel and press the collar in there, then use some on the outside of the dowel and insert it flush with on end of a piece of PVC. spin it a couple times to make sure the epoxy is evenly spread inside the PVC. Let that dry and your Support shaft is complete.
Step 4: Support Stands
This is fairly easy, line the 1X8" at 14" - 18" boards up so that they are flush at one end then clamp them. First take the 1 1/2" hole saw and cut a hole all the way through the top board and partially through the second about 1" down from the top. Once the 1 1/2" hole is cut change to the 2" hole saw and use the center mark made with the previous cut on the bottom board to cut a 2" hole, this will be for the motor. Use the 2X4's and wood screws to attach feet on the bottom of the 1X8 boards at a right angle and flush with the tabletop. The support stands are now complete.
There are probably better ways to attach feet to a stand, but for now this is what's working for me.
Take the motor, and attach the wires from the motor to the bare wires of the plug in cord. This can be done via the connectors, solder, or twisting and a neat/tidy electrical tape wrap. (please insulate the individual bare wires and the joint separately. If you are unsure about wiring please do some independent research)
Now run the plug and motor wires through the 2" in hole and affix the motor with the two 1/4" screws.
Step 5: Rod Dryer Assembly
After you have let the epoxy dry, you are ready to assemble your rod dryer.
Then take the PVC support shaft with the motor collar glued into it and slide the notched foam circle on to the end. the fit will be snug. It is supposed to be to keep the drum lined up. Over time it may become loose and may need to be glued to the PVC, but for now it aids in the storage of this thing. Then insert the 1" PVC internal coupling and attach the second length of PVC. Then slide the slotted foam circle on the end of the second piece of PVC and line the notches up with the slots. You can adjust the distance the circles are apart to fit the rods you are drying. Then attach the PVC support shaft assembly to the motor stand by sliding the collar glued into the PVC support shaft on to the motor shaft and securing with the set screw provided with the motor. Lastly slide the other support stand on the other end of the PVC support shaft assembly and you have yourself a multi-rod dryer. Since this is a recent build we have no idea on the longevity, but it should work for a fairly long time. There is room for improvement on the design, but as far as being light weight, modular, and functional this hits all of those marks.
Notes after limited use:
1) Apply some tape on the PVC and slide the Foam drums over it to prevent them from slipping. The compression fit on the PVC doesn't have enough friction under load.
2) The PVC coupling may need a little sanding and some lube (we used wax) to make it a snug but removable fit to allow you to tear this down when not in use.
Please let us know any improvements that you come up with! Either in the comments here or on Facebook on the Crappie Junction Page (https://www.facebook.com/Crappiejunction)