Compact Planter With LED Plant Lights

About: ENG 249, 2018. Project 2

Intro: Compact Planter With LED Plant Lights

Are you interested in growing plants in your home but don't have the space? This Instructable will teach you how you can build your own compact planter complete with LED lights and an easy watering system.

Step 1: Materials Needed

Wooden frame:
1x: 1 in. x 6 in. x 8 ft wood board (https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-6-in-x-8-ft-Premium-Kiln-Dried-Square-Edge-Whitewood-Common-Board-914770/100028725)

8x: 2" wood screws (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-8-x-2-in-Phillips-Bugle-Head-Coarse-Thread-Sharp-Point-Polymer-Coated-Exterior-Screws-1-lb-Pack-PTN2S1/100197689)

Power drill and drill bit set

Hot glue gun

Basin (holds the soil and plants on the base of the frame): Any plastic container to fit within a 6 inch by 1 foot area, does not have to be the full size

https://www.dollartree.com/tool-bench-hardware-too...

Reservoir (holds the water on top of the frame): Any plastic container that fits exactly 6 inches by 1 foot

https://www.dollartree.com/translucent-plastic-sto...

3 feet of quarter inch tubing (OD - Outer diameter):
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-O-D-x-...

Grow Light Strip

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BW3H24B/ref=o...

12V power cord

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-2-1mm-...

Tubing connectors (contains retainer clips):
https://www.amazon.com/YZM-Quick-Connect-Fitting-c...

Wire cutters

Scissors

Soil

Seeds

Step 2: Construct Frame

Cut your 6 inch by 4 foot wooden block into 2 different size pieces
2 pieces will be 12 inches
2 pieces will be 10 inches

Number your wooden blocks as follows
Board A = 12 inches
Board B = 10 inches
Board C = 12 inches
Board D = 10 inches

Line Board A and B up to make an butt joint (picture 4)
Pre-drill your two holes to prevent the wood from splitting, then drill 2 screws into Board A as shown in picture 5.
Repeat the same thing with Board C and D.

Connect your two 'L' shaped pieces together to create your frame and pre-drill and fasten remaining screws.

Coat with Waterproof coating such as paint or polyurethane.

Step 3: Cut Tubing and Connect Joint

Cut your tubing to 4, 6, and 8 inches long

Attach a 90 degree quick connect to the 4 inch and 6 inch tube
IMPORTANT: Insert retainer clip into the quick connect to insure a tight seal. This connector only requires ONE retainer clip.

Connect the 6 inch tubing to the other side of the 90 degree quick connect

Step 4: Preparing the Reservoir and Mounting

Cut a 3/16th size hole a quarter inch from the bottom of the blue reservoir

Insert your 4 inch tube into the hole and push through 1/4" of tubing (see photo for reference)
The main idea here is that the hole is one size smaller than the tube size, this is called an interference fit and it will allow for a tight seal. Optionally, you may add glue to ensure a waterproof seal as well

Mount your reservoir on the top of the frame with hot glue so that the 90 degree quick connect hangs off on the corner (see photo)

Hot glue it to the edge

Step 5: Fasten Piping to Frame

Once you attach the reservoir, attach the ball valve to the 6 inch tubing hanging off the top of the frame
Firmly press the tubing into the connector
Be sure to insert the retainer clip into the connector!

Make sure the valve is in the off position, which is horizontal as expressed in the photo

Adding hot glue to the back of the valve and the tubing is recommended

Step 6: Attach Basin to the Frame

Hot glue basin to the frame

Step 7: Drill Hole Into Frame and Connect Basin Tubing

Drill a hole into the frame a quarter inch from the bottom and in the center (3 inches from the side)
Be sure to penetrate the plastic basin as well

Connect the 8 inch tube to the ball valve
DON'T FORGET TO INSERT THE RETAINER CLIP. The ball valve must have a retainer clip on both ends.

Feed the tube into the hole you've drilled and pull through roughly to the center of the basin

Glue tube to basin (see photo)

Test your device to make sure your water is flowing properly and your tubes aren't leaking

Step 8: Drill Hole for Lights

Drill a quarter inch hole into the top corner of the frame to feed the light cable through

Glue the cable for the lights to the exterior of the frame

Step 9: Cut and Attach Lights to Frame

Cut your light strip to 10 inches, be careful to cut in the middle of the two copper dots (see first photo)

Use the adhesive in your light strip or hot glue to attach it to the ceiling of the frame (we ended up having to use hot glue, so keep and eye on the lights to make sure they don't fall)

Feed the light strip's cable through the hole drilled in the prior step

Plug in lights to your 12V adapter and turn them on to test

Step 10: Fill Basin With Soil

The kind of soil you choose is up to you but you may want to consider one filled with nutrients for the plants.

Fill the basin with the soil you've chosen

Leave a little room if you are transferring starters. Don't pack down the soil, or the plants may not be able to spread their roots.

Step 11: Transfer Plants Into the Basin

Following the instructions of the seed or starter that you are using, plant them in the dirt reservoir.

Make sure that you don't put too many plants in the planter, otherwise they may not be able to grow.

Step 12: Fill Reservoir With Water

Pour some water into the reservoir on top of the frame, if you have a lid, you may put it on to prevent spills.

Step 13: Have a Good Time Doing Plant Stuff

Enjoy your new herb garden and don't forget to water it!

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    Discussions

    This looks like a great system for growing indoors in the winter.