Cool, Simple, Durable, Affordable, and Easy to Build Ps2 Gt4 Racing Cage

About: I'm always in need of challenge and always need to be doing something to get me going. Most of the time, I would rather put things together myself instead of buying and paying the full price for it. But it's...

Tired of playing GT4 with that lap attachment kit? Still wouldn't buy that 900 degrees racing wheel and play GT4 like it was meant to be played because you don't have a place to mount it? Or still hesitating to buy that nice racing seat package because it costs $300 bucks? Here is the solution to your burning desire to be a GT4 pro, the world's first racing cage made out of PVC pipes, fittings, and other easily available tools and hardware for under $50. And the best part is it meets or exceeds performance of any commerically available ones.

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Step 1: Parts, Hardware and Tools

NOTE: This project assumes that you already have a GT4 racing wheel and some household tools so the cost of these are not included in this project. After finalizing the design with the first one, it took me about 3.5 hours to finish the second one considering that I'm just an average handy person. It may vary depending on how handy you are. All parts, tools, and hardware are available at the HomeDepot.

1) Logitec force pro GT4 racing wheel, $79 on amazon with free shipping.

2) A used front car seat, preferably a sport type. Mine came out of a 1994 Honda Civic that I bought from craigslist for $20 each.

3) Tools as shown in the picture. Note that the hand saw is for plastic pipes but can also cut small pieces of wood that are needed for this project. The drill bits are 3/32" and 5/16".

4) Hardware, as shown in the picture.
a) 1 pack of #8x3/4 Metal screws (~$3.20)
b) 4 pieces of 5/16"x21/2" bolts (~18 cents each)
c) nuts (~8 cents each)
d) flat washers (~7 cents each)
e) locking washers (~12 cents each)

5) PVC pipes and fittings as shown in the picture.
a) 2 pieces of 1" x 10' white PVC pipes (~$3.19 each)
Note: There are thick and thin types, get the thick one.
b) 8 pieces each of L and T shape fittings (~48 and 49 cents each)
c) 2 pieces of straight fitting (~32 cents each)
d) 1 cross shape fitting (~$1.29 each)

6) Wood
a) 1 piece of 11" x 71/4" x 1/2" plywood or something similar.
b) 3 pieces of 1" x 4' wood dowels (~$3.20 each, OPTIONAL)
Note: the dowels are optional. They help stiffen the frame a little but not significant enough to be included as required items. I provided this optional step as the last one in case anyone wants to try it.

7) A No.2 pencil and a black permanent marker

Step 2: Seat Frame Assembly

1) Cut 2 pieces of 181/4" pipe, lable them A.
2) Cut 2 pieces of 143/8" pipe, label them B.

Assemble as shown using the cut pipes and 2xL and 2xT shape fittings. This is the base frame for the seat. Ignore the 5/16" holes on the fittings for now. We'll get back to them later.

Step 3: Rear Steering Base Assembly

1) Cut 8 pieces of 81/2" pipes, label them C.
2) Cut 3 pieces of 21/4" pipes, label them E.

Using 4xC cut pipes and 3xT shape fittings, assemble as shown in the first picture.

Attach 2xE cut pipes and 2xT fittings onto the front of the above assembly. Then attach this frame to the seat frame as shown in the second picture.

This is the steering base assembly for the rear.

Step 4: Front Steering Base Assembly

1) Cut 3 pieces of 18" pipes, label them D.

Using 2xD and 2xC cut pipes and 2xL and 1xT shape fittings, assemble as shown in the picture. This is the steering base assembly for the front.

Step 5: Overall Cage Base Frame Assembly

Attach the front steering base frame to the frame assembled previously as shown in the pictures. Carefully hammer the fittings to completely seat the joints and to stiffen the entire frame. This is the base frame for the entire cage.

Step 6: Top Steering Column Supports

1) Cut 4 pieces of 16" pipes, label them F.

Using these cuts and 4xL shape fittings, assemble as shown.
These are the supports for the top steering column assembly.

Step 7: Top Steering Column Assembly

1) Cut 3 pieces of 1" off the straight style fittings.

Slip them over 2xC and 1xD cut pipes. Then using the cross style fitting, assemble as shown. This is the top steering column.

Step 8: Final Steering Column Assembly

Attach the steering column supports to the top steering column assembly as shown. This is the final steering column.

Step 9: Final Cage Assembly

Attach the steering column to the cage base frame. Carefully hammer all the fittings again to completely seat the joints. This is the final cage assembly.

Step 10: Steering Wheel Clamp Support

1) Cut the 11"x71/4" wood and drill holes to fit the #8x3/4" screws in the shape shown in first picture. Adjust the 1" cuts on the steering column to align the holes to the center lines of the pipes. Then place the wood over the column and screw it tight as shown in the second picture.

Step 11: Tightening the Cage

1) Drill 3/32" holes on all the fittings where the pipes and the fittings meet. I have all my holes underneath the cage but you can have them anywhere. Check out the picture for examples.

Optional: At this point, if you are interested in stiffening the frame a bit more, go to step 13. If not, continue with the following up to step 12.

2) Screw all the holes using the #8x3/4" screws and the drill. Let the screws mesh into the holes slowly. Then using a hand screw driver, tighten all the screws one last time.

Step 12: Placing the Seat

Important Note: On some seats like mine, the bolt holes on the inlcuded metal rails are not flat. I had to hammer them to make them flat to be able to mount the seat over the cage seat frame.

Place the seat over the seat frame assembly, align, mark, and drill 5/16" through holes for the bolt, as shown in the pictures.

Place the seat over the bolts, put the washers and tighten the nuts. Becareful to not overtighten them.

Now, sit back, and take a break. Then mount your steering wheel and happy racing.

Step 13: Optional, Stiffening the Cage With Dowels

Note: Make sure that all screws have been removed if you got to this step after everything was completed. Also make sure to drill 1/8" holes into the dowels from existing holes.

1) Remove the seat if it's not already removed.

2) Detach the seat frame assembly from the rear steering base assembly.

3) Insert the dowels all the way into the front steering base frame as shown. The dowels are 1" in diameter and and should fit just right in the pipes. Twist the dowels on their way in to help ease the travel.

4) Reattach the seat base frame. The dowels are exactly 4' in length and should fit perfectly after the frame is reattached.

5) Carefully hammer all the fittings to stiffen the joints.

6) Place the seat and tighten all the screws. Or continue with step 11 if you came here from there.

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    18 Discussions

    sCary Cary

    13 years ago

    Add full roll cage and window net. Painit it black add some racing decals. Yeah man , Go Dog GO

    1 reply

    9 years ago on Introduction

    This is great, I'm going to make 1 this week. You could run the wires down the pipes as well, make it all neat. Nice 1. Mike


    10 years ago on Introduction

    very funny! using a motorcycle helmet, jacket and gloves.... kkkkkk


    11 years ago on Introduction

    Hi There and thanks for sharing this great tutorial. I am nearly there with this project. I used the PVC pipes from an old broken Football (Soccer) Goal. Just need to get a few more bits and a seat then job done. Just a quick question, with the car seat and my weight, will this not damage the PVC pipes, and break them ? Thanks.

    1 reply

    12 years ago

    Super!! I Roughly translated to Portuguese and changed to metric, in order to send to my brazilian friends. If you wish I can post a comment with the text here, (is quite long, all your instructions with my comments underneath...). Congratulations.

    1 reply

    Reply 12 years ago

    Wow, cool... I'm sure your friends will enjoy a lot. Thanks for your comments, made me feel pretty good about this project. It's up to you if you want to post your translated instructions.


    13 years ago

    How do the foot pedals work? I often find when using (my pc) racing wheel the pedals tend to slide around a bit...

    2 replies

    Reply 13 years ago

    Crash, I play on laminate flooring with a MOMO Force - one of the predecessors to the GT4 wheel. You might try hitting your local The Home Depot and getting some Con-Tact Brand Ultra Solid Grip Liner. Almost works too well - I can't re-position my pedals on the fly when I want to!


    Reply 13 years ago

    That would be a nice addition and would make it much more durable. But for me, I play on carpet with the spikes underneath the pedal assembly out. And the bar in the front prevents it from moving forward.


    13 years ago

    looks a bit toilet-plumbing-esque. Would look good painted black to match the steering wheel colour.

    1 reply

    Reply 13 years ago

    Haha, I was thinking yellow or red but I guess black would do :-)


    Reply 13 years ago

    Cool one but it requires metal working skills and specialized tools: cutter, welder, bender etc... and a much larger space. Low cost is surely an issue I address but simplicity, portability, and ease-of-build are what I emphasized with my design. Almost anyone can build mine using tools and parts laying around the house or cheap and widely available parts at any local hardware store. From their pictures, it seems the racing position isn't very comfortable with their legs bent up and their knees touching the steering column. Mine provides a more natural racing position, allowing the player to extend the legs straight into the paddles. If I had the means to work with metal pipes, I'd still want mine for its simple and portability design.


    13 years ago



    13 years ago

    I don't know about screwing all the fittings together - you'll get a much stronger bond by chemically welding the fittings on, using blue goo... I do like the idea of strengthening sections of the frame with doweling however.

    1 reply

    Reply 13 years ago

    Great suggesstion, I'll try that, thanks. I wanted to make it portable so decided to use screws. But now I can just use screws for a few removable sections and use the weld for all other joints, especially critical joints to get maximum stiffness. Those who aren't worry about protablity should definitely use the weld.