Copper Roses




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Welcome to my Instructable on Copper Roses!

These roses have been a few years in the making. I originally followed the Instructable written by SanjayBeast in 2013 for a Mother's Day gift, and have steadily made changes to the design, materials, finish, and overall product.

Check out SanjayBeast's original post here:



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Step 1: Materials

Here are the basic materials I used for this project.

16oz Copper (approximately 5"x8" was used for one whole rose with leaves)

1/4" copper crimp sleeve

12" of 1/4" copper tubing + tubing cutter

tin snips

welding hammer

drill with 1/4" bit

center punch


an old or cheap tubing flare kit (or something to securely hold the tubing without crushing it, and something cone shaped that can be hit with a hammer)

Not shown:

a small amount of silver solder

10AWG copper wire

ball peen hammer

Step 2: Measure and Mark


I used the tubing cutter to cut 12" of copper tubing. This will be the stem. (Tip: If the tubing is all bent out of shape, a simple way to straighten it out is to roll it on a flat surface with a scrap piece of plywood on top of it. Rolling in between 2 flat surfaces will take away any bends in the tubing without crushing or deforming it.)


Mark out the following squares on the sheets, and then go corner to corner to mark out their centers.

1- 2"x1"

2- 2"x2"

2- 2.5"x2.5"

1- 3"x3"

I usually use a scribe or a pencil to make these marks and went with a sharpie this time around so I could photograph them.

Step 3: Picking Up the Pace Now...


Using a center punch, punch the centers of each square / rectangle, and then use the drill with the 1/4" bit to drill holes in the center of each marked out piece.

Cut, Mark, Cut Again

Cut out each square.

Draw a criss-cross across each square. For the 2"x1" piece, draw a line across the shorter center.

After drawing all of these criss-crosses, there will be 4 small squares drawn into each square of copper. Use the sharpie to draw a curve around each corner. These smaller squares will be individual petals. Refer to photos 2 and 3.

Cut along each new line towards the center, leaving a little less than 1/4" between the end of the cut and the edge of the center hole. Then, follow the curved lines drawn before to soften the sharp corners.

Stop... Hammer Time

Use the welding hammer, or a hammer and chisel to add texture onto the edge of each petal. I point the top of the hammer towards the center point of each petal to keep a consistent pattern of lines going outwards.

Step 4: Anneal, Pickle, Wait

Copper becomes work hardened after hammering, which means that it is not at all easy to bend into shape. Fortunately, it can be annealed as many times as your want. Use the MAPP gas torch to heat up the petals to a dull glow (red hot is not necessary). After reaching this point, the pieces become black with fire scale so I just throw them in a bucket filled with supermarket bought white vinegar and let it sit overnight. The acidity in the vinegar does a great job of cleaning up the copper.

All you need is a bit of patience.

Step 5: The Leaves and Stem


I drew 2 basic leaf shapes out of the remaining copper and cut them out (photo 1).

Next, I drew a few lines on them to represent the veins of the leaves (photo 2)

Using a dulled masonry chisel and a block of pine or any other soft wood, I hammered directly onto those lines. This gives the leaves a nice texture and will create an interesting coloring effect later on when the flower starts to naturally patina (Photos 3-5)

Clip out 2 short lengths (3"-4") of 10AWG copper wire and hammer out each end to flatten them out a bit. This will give the solder more surface area to hang on to (photo 6).

I first tinned each end of the wire with solder, leaving a small glob of solder to fuse the leaf on one end, and the stem on the other. Then, I went ahead and soldered the wire to each leaf.

I usually melt the edges of the leaves with my oxyacetylene gas welder so that they have less of a sharp edge and more texture. Since this is the only time I use oxy fuel in this project and since so many people don't have it available, I omitted this step.

Stem (photos 10-11):

Slide the copper crimp sleeve over the length of tubing about 1/4"-3/8" of an inch from the top, and solder. This will stop the petals from sliding down the stem in future steps.

Into the vinegar bucket all of these parts go.

Time to wait.

Step 6: The Next Day...


The vinegar does a great job of removing fire scale and still leaves a bit of a residue. I thoroughly washed the copper in water, dried it, and finished it up with fine steel wool (photos 1 and 2).

Solder Leaves to Stem:

I stood the stem up using a tubing clamp (anything can be used, really) and soldered the leaves onto the stem. This creates more fire scaling in a small area of the stem but it's not too bad. Just chuck the stem into the drill and spin it while holding the stem with steel wool to clean it up.

Step 7: Assembly

Going from largest to smallest, stack the petals up on the stem in an alternating pattern so that each set of petals is 45° offset from the one below it (photo 1).

Next, I set the stem in the pipe clamp as shown in photo 2 and hammered a single flare into the tube using a cone shaped flaring tool. I then used a ball peen hammer to hammered down the tubing and have it hold the petals in place (photos 2-5).

Time to start bending

Starting from the center out, I used needle nose pliers to bend the sides of each petal and then bent them upwards (photo 6).

Continue this process until all petals are bent upwards (photos 7-9).

Time to go back.

Now, starting from the outside in, curl the tops of the leaves back as shown in photos 10-12.

Getting Close!

Step 8: Finish Now or Keep Going?

A little bit more steel wool and photos 1-2 are what you have.

We can get real shiny with a buffing wheel.

WARNING: There are a lot of uneven edges on the rose that can easily get caught in the buffing wheel. I've had many roses get caught and go flying across the room which resulted in all of my hard work being destroyed. Wear proper safety attire, safety glasses, or a proper mask. Also, warn anyone nearby of the hazards.

Was it worth the extra work? Photo 4 is before, 5 is after... but still not after the final cleaning. Don't mind the black spots!

Step 9: Finished!

Finish cleaning any left over buffing compound with a soft cloth and DONE!

Now just repeat all previous steps several times and make a rose garden!

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    20 Discussions


    2 months ago

    This is a very well done indestructible. I've been a plumber/pipefitter/tinknocker for 13 years and finally decided to make some of these. Luckily I came across this. A guy at work was making flowers out of old globe valve handles and it just looked "too industrial" for my taste. This is craftsmanship that I truly enjoy. The one and only thing that throws me off is the length that the leaves are from the stem. I googled some rose pictures to see if I was way out of line and there's not a definite answer... so I guess it's my personal taste. There so much value in your rose design I just don't want to even notice the leaves at first. This is 100% splitting hairs though....when you find some copper thorns; let me know. Again, incredibly detailed indestructible and much appreciated.


    3 years ago

    Great Job.

    One thing the Welding Hammer is called a "Chipping Hammer" because it is used to chip the slag from a Arc/stick weld.

    Chipper Bert

    4 years ago

    Really beautiful. I suppose they will dull and develop a patina over time, which is great if that's what one wants. Any tips on preventing that happening, for those of us who like shiny copper?

    1 reply
    AndreHashChipper Bert

    Reply 4 years ago


    For items that are tough to wipe down, I use an enamel clear coat. Rustoleum clear works well.

    For items that are easily wiped down, automotive wax - Meguiars or Mothers.


    Reply 4 years ago

    16oz copper sheet is what my local sheet metal suppliers call it.
    .063 thickness so I think that's around 22ga


    Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

    Looks almost like a marvering table for shaping molten glass for glass blowers! The thickness of your table is great - it won't warp, even with hot glass


    4 years ago on Step 4

    If you add some salt to the vinegar and heat it (I use a crock pot) you don't have to wait overnight: A few minutes will suffice depending on the freshness of the solution.

    1 reply

    Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

    Yay, I'm so glad someone beat me to this tip! You don't even have to heat it. I use a teaspoon of salt in quart of white vinegar and mix it well. Works in minutes to remove fire scale from copper. I love the roses!


    4 years ago on Introduction

    great job.

    Just a suggestion: a commercially available pickle, like Sparex 2, heated, will cut the pickling time down to minutes rather than overnight. (Of course there are caveats to its use such as no iron or steel can be placed in the pickle and there are some environment issues to be attended to when disposing of used pickle. Suitable PPE (personal protection equipment) must be used a swell.)

    Also, I was taught to heat the metal just until a Sharpie mark made on it disappears.

    Just4Fun Media

    4 years ago

    Those roses look amazing! How long does it take to make one? It seems like quite the labour intensive process!

    Have a great day! :-)

    1 reply
    AndreHashJust4Fun Media

    Reply 4 years ago

    thank you!
    I would say that I dedicate at least a few hours of 2 days for this since it has to pickle overnight or cumulatively an entire day. There is economy is scale though... if you're going to make one, make several!


    4 years ago on Introduction


    I am interested in the metal roses, I am looking for just the head no stem, do you sell them?

    1 reply

    Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

    I don't have any of just the head right now, and I can make them within a few days. How many would you like?
    Message me back at my email

    Thank you!


    4 years ago

    Great instruct able. Where did you get the table?

    1 reply

    Reply 4 years ago

    The table was given to me by someone looking to empty out their storage. I welded heavy duty locking caster wheels to the legs and rested a 1/4" thick 2'x4' plate of steel on top.

    I definitely recommend this set up for metal work / welding. The plate is heavy enough to stay in place, you can slide it a few inches over an edge to clamp workpieces down, it hasn't warped yet, and I use both sides. One side is for really dirty stuff, then I flip it over for the clean stuff.


    4 years ago

    strong work. looks amazing. great work.