With Christmas coming around, I had to come up with an idea on what to get my aunt. While in one of my classes, I was surfing on the internet and came across torches made of copper. They are made in a similar fashion as the ones detailed in this Instructable, but they were made as ground stakes. They also used more expensive components than the torches made in this Instructable.
Each torch costs about $13 in components and will take about 1 hour to make.
Below is a video of construction from start to finish. The rest of the Instructable is the step-by-step process of building these torches.
Warning: This Instructable involves the use of open flame. Take all necessary safety precautions.
Step 1: Tools and Materials
The materials listed below will make 2 torches.
- 1 - 3/4" Copper Pipe
- 2 - 3/4" Copper Cap
- 2 - 3/8" Copper Coupler
- 2 - 3/4" to 1/2" Copper Reducer
- 1 Package - Tiki Torch Wick
- 2 - 3/8" Ceiling Flange
- 2 - 3/4" Copper Plated Split Ring Hanger
- 1 - 3/8" Threaded Rod
- 1 Package - 3/8" - 16 Nuts
Used Motor Oil
- Pipe Cutter
- Propane Torch
- Soldering Flux
- Steel Wool
- Phillips Head Screwdriver
- Lead-Free Solder
- Tape Measure
- Acid Brush for Flux
- Wire Cutters
- Hacksaw or Angle Grinder with Cut-off Wheel
Step 2: Preparing the Components
The first step is to cut the 3/4" copper pipe to length. Since the tiki wicks are only 9 inches long, the copper tube should be cut at the 9 inch length.
After the copper pipe is cut to length, use steel wool to clean up the ends of the pipe. Also use the steel wool on the inside of the copper end cap, the inside of the 3/4" to 1/2" reducer, and on the outside of the 3/8" copper coupler.
Step 3: Soldering the Components
Top (Wick Holder) -
- Cleaned 3/8" Coupler
- Cleaned 3/4" to 1/2" Reducer
Use the acid brush to put a layer of flux on the outside of the 3/8" coupler and on the inside of the 1/2" side of the reducer. Place the reducer with the 1/2" side down on a flat surface. Place the 3/8" coupler inside of the reducer so that it is center in the 1/2" opening. Use a pair of wire cutters to make small pieces of solder that can be placed around the 3/8" coupler. Once the pieces of solder are in place, use the propane torch to heat the outside of the reducer until the solder melts. Allow the pieces to cool and the solder to solidify before moving it.
- Cleaned Copper Pipe Cut to Length
- Cleaned End Cap
Use the acid brush to put a layer of flux on the outside of one end of the copper pipe and on the inside of the end cap. Place the end cap on the end of the pipe until it bottoms out. Use the propane torch to heat the end cap on one side. Once the pipe is hot enough, use the solder on the opposite side of the flame at the joint between the end cap and the pipe. This ensures a water tight joint as the solder will flow wherever there was flux.
Step 4: Finishing and Assembling the Torch
Use steel wool to polish all the copper pieces. You could probably spray a clear coat if you want to keep the shiny copper color, but I chose to keep it natural. Since the torches will live outdoors, the copper will oxidize into a blue-green color.
Mounting Hardware -
I chose to antique the mounting hardware. To antique the ceiling flange, nuts, and threaded rod, I heated up the pieces with a torch and then dropped them into used motor oil. After letting them cool off in the oil, I wiped the excess oil off.
After polishing up the copper pieces, slide the wick holder over the open end of the body. Slide the wick through the opening in the top and leave about 1/4 inch of the wick exposed. Attach the ceiling flange to the wall or beam where you want the torch located. Cut the threaded rod in half and put two nuts onto the rod. Screw the threaded rod into the ceiling flange and use one of the nuts to lock the rod in that position. Screw the split ring hanger onto the threaded rod and use the other nut to keep it in that position. Attach the split ring hanger to the body of the torch in the position you want it at. Adjust as need to keep the torch as vertical as possible.
Fill with tiki torch fuel and let the wick soak it up. Fill again after an hour and it is ready to light.