Costumer Station Desk

This desk had to fit inside a small area in a preexisting classroom, so it was designed to efficiently use the space available. It had to be durable, because it will be used mainly by high schoolers. This desk was designed to be a workstation for the costumers in my schools theater department, and was created with their needs in mind.

Materials

1 -- 2 1/2" 2' x 4' Sanded Plywood

1 -- 1/4" 4' x 4' Rough Plywood

1 -- 3/16" 2' x 4' Pegboard

2 -- 1" x 2" 8ft strip

1 -- 1/2" 2' x 4' Insulation Board

1 Pack of 1' x 1' cork tiles.

6 -- 5" Corner Braces

1 -- Mending Plate

1 lb of 1 1/4" Star Head Screws (This is a personal preference)

Wood Glue (I used Titebond II, but again, personal preference)

Can of Paint

2 -- 8" Peg Hooks (Optional)

Piece of 3/4" Scrap wood (Optional)

Step 1:

The first step was designing the desk. The largest the desk could be was 19” by 27”. When I asked the customers what they wanted in a desk, they said they would like corkboard and pegboard so that there would be freedom to change the locations of different objects. This is the rough first design. The final design removed a solid back leg, and replaced it with a 2x4 at the bottom, and a supporting board at the top.

Step 2:

Time to cut the parts of the desk! The base of the desk is ½” sanded plywood. The sides of the desk are constructed from 26” by 19” pieces of the ½” sanded plywood. The top supporting board should be cut 26” by 12”, and the top of the desk has the dimensions 19” by 27”.

Step 3:

To support and provide backings for the corkboard and pegboard sections, cut four pieces from the ¼” rough plywood. For the pegboard backing, the back piece should be cut at 26” by 19”, and the side backing cut at 19” by 19”. For the cork board backing, the back backing should have the dimensions 26” by 24”, and the side backing should be 19” by 24”.

Step 4:

Next, we need to create a frame to support the pegboard. This frame is created out of the strip. For the back section there should be two pieces 26” long, and two 17” long. For the side frame, there are two pieces 19” long, and two that are 17” long. Remember that the ends of all of the frame pieces should be cut at a 45 degree angle so that each frame can form a rectangle.

Step 5:

Use wood glue to join the separate pieces for each of the two frames that will support the pegboard. Drive screws from the side through the joints to provide extra stability. Now use that same glue to join the backings to the respective frames -- secure the backing to the frames with screws. The backing board will extend above the top of the frame by 2”. Next glue the pegboards to their respective frames, again allowing the top of the pegboard to extend above the top of the frame by 2". Again, screw the pegboard to the frames for stability. Note that the extensions above the frame will form a channel that the cork board frames will be inserted into later.

Step 6:

For the cork board supports, cut two pieces of ¼ ” insulation board. The back piece has the dimensions 26” by 24”, and the side piece has the dimensions 19” by 24”. These pieces should then be glued onto their respective backings that were cut earlier. Next, cover the inside surfaces of the insulation board with the cork. I used 1’ by 1’ cork tiles. Glue the cork to the exposed side of the insulation. If there is any uncovered insulation cut pieces of the cork tile to fit.

Step 7:

Now I assembled the main part of the desk. I had another person hold the two legs 26” apart perpendicular to the ground, then I inserted the 26” by 12” board so it is flush to the top, with the edges covered in glue. Then secure this board with screws from the side. Repeat with the 26” 2x4, but make the board flush to the ground. Then cover the three top sides with wood glue, then place the top of the desk so it is flush, then screw in place from the top for a more secure desk.

Step 8:

Now to assemble the two parts of the pegboard. Make sure the gap is on top. The back piece will hit the side piece, so they form a 90 degree angle. Glue the pieces together , then screw them together, going through the side backing. Use two corner brackets, with one 4” from the top, and the other bracket 3” from the bottom.

Step 9:

To assemble the cork board repeat the process of step eight -- the pieces should form a 90 degree angle, with the cork facing inward.

Step 10:

Use 1 4” mending plate on the main portion of the desk, and 2 5" corner bracket . Screw one corner bracket to the front left of the top of the desk, which will be attached to the frame of the pegboard. A second corner bracket will be attached on the end of the right leg, to be attached to the frame of the pegboard.The mending board will be screwed to the back left of the desk.

Step 11:

Now to assemble the cork board and pegboard together. Insert the cork board piece into the gap that was left in the pegboard frame. This gap should be snug, to secure it screw through pegboard backer into the cork board backer as many times as needed.

Step 12:

I painted now, but the desk can be painted at the beginning or at final assembly.

Step 13:

Time for final assembly. Place the pegboard/cork board on top of the desk so it fits with the mending plates, then screw in place. This should be stable, but more mending plates may be added if needed.

Step 14: (Optional)

I got a piece of ¾” scrap wood with the dimension 26” by 6” to use as a shelf. This was painted as well, and placed on two 8” peg hooks.

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