Intro: Counter Strike Push Daggers
So in this Instructables, I am going to show you how I build these daggers. This build is inspired from CS: Go Counter-Strike game. Although I don't want to make the same build as in the video game that's why I gave it little bit of my personal touch. I made two daggers of same size but the only difference is in the edge. The one dagger have a convex edge and other have a concave edge. If you are new in knife making then I think making these kind of push daggers in which handle is not necessary to make is a great learning experience. And you can make these kinds of build with some basic metal working tools. If you like this build then make sure to leave your valuable feedback in the comment section down below. I am extremely happy to read your feedback and reply you back. Your queries and suggestions are always welcome.
Step 1: Material and Tools Used
Following are the list of material and tools used in this build:-
- 1095 high carbon steel.
- Angle Grinder
- Carbide Bits
- Flap Disk
- Cutting Wheel
- Needle Files
- Buffing Wheel
- Buffing Compound
- Sharpening Stones
- Bench Vice
- Ferric Chloride
- Drill Machine
- Carbide Scriber
- Marker or Layout fluid
Step 2: Basic Design and Template Cutting.
So far the design I follow the CS go dagger style but I don't want to make my dagger as it is in the game and that's why I made my own design on to AutoCAD. I made two different design in which one has a convex edge and other have a concave style edge. Other than that both of them are identical in dimension. Then I took two print out of each design and then cut the template with a utility knife so that I can transfer this onto the material with which I am going to make the daggers.
Step 3: Cutting Process.
Once the template has been cut out I place them on to the Steel strip and then trace the outlines with the help of a permanent marker. Then I remove the template and start the cutting process. To minimise the waste I place my template in such a way that less material has been wasted during cutting. Instead of cutting the basic shape I decided to cut down both design separately so that I can work on to each of them individually. For cutting this metal piece I am using 4" angle grinder with a cutting disc. Although I roughly trace the outline around my design so that less grinding work has to be done once they are cut down. With the help of a grinding wheel, I follow the curves as accurate as I can but even then there are some places where it is quite difficult for the grinder to reach. But to remove that material I made multiple cuts so that I can break off that excess material and grind the rest with the help of files.
Step 4: Final Outlines of the Daggers.
Once the basic profile of the daggers has been cut out I coloured the surface of the daggers and then place the template over them and then start tracing the outlines and with the help of carbide scriber follow the profile as close as possible. I use some French curves because the paper doesn't have enough strength to lead a path for the scriber to follow. With the help of centre punch, I mark all location so that I remove the material for the design. Actually, this design is basically for the aesthetic purpose. if you want to make some handle for your daggers then you can skip this process and use some knife scales so that you can make the handles for your daggers. The main advantage of making the design in daggers is that it will reduce the weight to some extent and make the weapon light.
Step 5: Finalizing the Outcurvers
Then I hold my dagger into the vice and with the help of carbide grinding bit, start removing the excess material and follow the lines to make the final Shape Of My dagger. Even at this stage, I left out a tiny bit of material so that I can make the final shape with the help of files. For the filing process, I use multiple shapes of files like round file half round file and triangular file. To remove the central part of the dagger are used my drill press and drill some holes as close to the outlines and possibly remove most of the material with the drilling process. Then with the help of dremel removes the leftover material with carbide bits. At this point also I didn't remove the material up to the final outlines and then the finishing work with some needle files.
Step 6: Marking and Edge Profiling.
Once all of the basic design has been finished I coloured the area on which I have to scribe the line. Then with the help of vernier calliper, I marked 1" bevel line across the daggers. Since my metal is 8 mm that's why I use a 7 mm diameter drill bit to mark the edge thickness of my blade. I place my dagger on to a flat surface and then scribe the line on both sides of the cutting edge then flip over the piece and scribe again. By doing this I have a 1 mm thick line mark at the edge of my dagger up to which I have to file down the bevel. Then I first bevel down the edge with the help of angle grinder and flap disc. Once I grind down the most of the material, I move on to my filing jig and start bevelling the edges of my daggers. In between the beveling sometime I use flat file freehand two level the bevel surface. Then I started hand sanding the dagger up to 150 grit sandpaper so that most of the scratch occurs during filing has been diminished before the hardening process.
Step 7: Quenching and Tempering.
Then I lighten up my forge and put both of my daggers Into the pit and allow them to glow up to orange colour (or the quenching temperature). Once there reach up to the quenching temperature I remove them out of the forge and dip them into the quenching oil for the quenching process. To check the quenching I do file test on my dagger and file almost skid on to the knife and this tells that blade is perfectly quenched. For tempering process, I place my blade onto kitchen burner up to 20 minutes so that the Blade become tempered and all of the stress has been removed out of the blades. Now the daggers are ready for the next process which is the finishing part.
Step 8: Finishing Process.
Once tempering has been done I move on to my workbench and start the sanding process of my blades because there are lots of scales developed on to the surface because of quenching process that's why I have to start the sanding process from 150 grit Sandpaper. During this process, I use Soapy water to do the wet sanding. I experienced that Soapy water removes dirt a lot faster than the normal water and it also makes the surface quite lubricate than the normal water. Nowadays I also see that people use WD 40 during the sending process of their blades, also some use glass cleaner too. For the sanding I start with 150 grit and sand my blade up to 1200 grit with Sandpaper. By this process, most of the major and the minor scratches are removed completely. With the help of thin tube wrapping with Sandpaper, I also sand it the inside and the outside boundaries of the daggers and the spine of the daggers. Once all of the sanding processes has been done I start the buffing process. With the help of buffing compound and buffing Wheel on to my grinder, I buff down both the pieces up to 1 hr.
Step 9: Acid Etching.
Although I am not a huge fan of acid etching this is my first time when I decided to do this on to my blade. And in my build, I decided to give it to told look in which half of the life has been acid and other remain Shiny like a mirror finish. Before going for etching I wrap my blade with the tape where I don't want to etch. Then I mix ferric chloride with water and dip my blades into that mixture and keep it for 20 minutes. Then I remove the blades out of the acid and dip them into the water having washing soda in it and with the help of scrubber remove all of the acids to stop further etching of the blades. After rinsing it with water I remove that tape but underneath the tape, there are some spots of etching but I remove them with the help of buffing wheel and make that area clear.
Step 10: Sharpening and Testing.
After doing so much work I reached to the final stage where I need to sharpen these blades to make them more deadly. For that I ordered these sharpening stone which is specially made for knives and on my knife bevel jig, I placed them onto it clamped it securely and then start the sharpening process. Since I have a slightly thick edge that's why I started from 120 grit and ended up to 1000 grit. Once the sharp edge has been achieved I move on to my leather stropping belt and sharpen that edge so that it will pass the paper and hair cutting tests.
Step 11: Finally.
Now the end result is in front of you. If you like this build and have some suggestions for me then don't forget to leave your valuable feedback in the comment section down below. I am extremely blessed to read your opinion on my build.