Creality CR-10 3d Printer Sindvik Enclosure




Introduction: Creality CR-10 3d Printer Sindvik Enclosure

Read and understand the entire Instructable first proceeding!

This box has the smallest height and depth possible with only 5mm clearance in height and about 10mm clearance in depth. The height is limited by the IKEA door size, but the depth could easily be increased by an extra 35mm by just cutting a section from in the rear frame batten. To increase the height you could remove or use smaller rubber feet, build an extra panel piece above or below the door and and increase all vertical heights.

I am not a carpenter, i don't have all the fancy tools needs to make a perfect enclosure. I used a hand saw, jigsaw and mitre saw. By all means deviate from the instructions to improve your own enclosure.

One thing i would change if i did this again is to use 90 degree metal braces to ensure the battens are perfectly perpendicular, I strongly advise you do this. Luckily the door hinges adjust enough to compensate for my box not being square.

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Step 1: List of Materials

UK Parts List.


1x 2440x1220 12mm MDF sheet £16.79

3x 34x34x2400 untreated timber £11.49


Sindvik glass door £15


2x Hafele Cabinet Hinge 170° 67mm £4.58

2x cabinet hing mounts £0.98

Other bits

screws, E profile draught excluder, mdf primer, emulsion paint, sound insulation (or use packing the printer came with) toggle latches.

Step 2: Cut the Materials

My door was a slightly different size to the sizes advertised 595x637. So sizes were adjusted for this.

DONT just draw the plans all at once. You need to account for the saw blade width. Draw and cut one piece at a time. There is not enough mdf to cut the base in one piece so you can either do it in 2 pieces (If you've no extra mdf lying around) or just buy another sheet.

Make sure you cut the mdf exactly as shown to get the most out of the sheet, and to make sure the straight edges are there for a nice seal againt the door.

Cut the materials to size using the plan. Use a mitre saw or jig for the battens to ensure the ends are square.

Use a mask when cuting the MDF panels.

Step 3: Assemble the Frame

TIP: I recommend that you brace the corners of your frame with 90 degree metal brackets to ensure your frame battens are exactly perpendicular.

Create the front and rear frames first on a flat surface with the 503's and 613's

(503's between not under he 613s)

Then connect the two frames wih the 602's (602s Between not under frames)

We are going to remove the front frame once the panels are secured, so fix it in a way that it is possible to remove (4 screws from the front)

Step 4: Assemble the Panels

Place the door front side down on a flat surface, place the frame in the correct orientation on top of it. Place each mdf panel againt the frame, with the smoothest edge against the door. Clamp, pilot drill and countersink each hole before screwing it in place.

Remember DONT screw into the front frame, we need to remove it shortly.

Side panels go inbetween top and bottom panels.

Top, bottom and sides are all the same depth, so the back planel slots inbetween them all.

DONT fit the base yet, as its easier to mount the hinges properly without it on.

Step 5: Hinges & Rear Panel

Now remove the front frame.

Lie the box back down on top of the door, screw the hinges into the door.

Now attach the hinge mounts to the hinges, push them against the side panel. Mark the holes with a pen.

Drill the holes. Fix the base panel.

Step 6: Mount Door

Sit it upright and test mount the door.

Adjust the hinges so its hung perfectly.

You can optionally use some of the wood left over from the front frame to reinforce the area behind the door. Leave the top and bottom free, otherwise you'll never get he printer in!

You may want to also fit a door catch.

Step 7: Finishing

Filler, Prime, paint, then slide her in.

Now its time to decide what you want to do in regards to holes for filament cables, lights, fans, insulation etc.

My filament holder is on top of the enclosure and passes through the enclosure via 2 pneumatic couplers with a pieces of PTFE tube in between (See photo). Ive included the STL for the pneumatic coupler holders.

Ive used E profile rubber draft excluding strip on the door, and toggle latch clamps that create a near air tight seal.

Im aiming to make mine air tight, using a 3d printed wiring panel comprised of gx16 female connectors, ill update this instructable when that is completed.

Good luck and happy printing!

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    5 Discussions


    2 years ago

    What kind of screws did you use with the door hinges?

    I noticed with 12mm MDF the door hinges tend to "pull" through the wood.

    You placed a extra beam behind the hinges to reinforce the area.

    How is that working out?


    Reply 2 years ago

    The ones that came with the hinge, they have an aggressive thread. They are however about 12mm so nearly go all the way through, my plan was to bolt straight through if they came out. But they holding perfectly.


    2 years ago

    This is great thanks. I have my first 3D Printer coming from Kickstarter before Christmas (hopefully)! So I might be experimenting with something like this!

    DIY Hacks and How Tos

    Nice design. You should definitely enter this into the First Time Authors contest.


    Reply 2 years ago

    Thanks :)