My Weiser electronic lock's keypad stopped working about 6 months after I got it. Having no receipt and not being keen on replacing it with another cheap membrane keypad, I figured I'd replace it with something more durable.
Materials needed :
6 momentary switches
1 6 wire cable
1 6 connector header socket
Tools needed :
drill with bits
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Step 1: Map Out Your Keypad
You need to figure out what each membrane button on the keypad actually does. I started with the lock button and listed the two wires (out of the six) that each button closed. For me, it was :
Lock : 1 and 4
7/8 : 2 and 5
9/0 : 5 and 4
1/2 : 2 and 1
3/4 : 3 and 2
5/6 : 4 and 3
Unless you have the exact same lock as me, your mileage may vary. Trace them out for yourself to make sure.
Step 2: Pick Out Your Switches
You need as many switches as your keypad had buttons. Choose a momentary, normally off switch. I used 5 white switches (for the numbers) and 1 red switch (for lock)
Step 3: The Enclosure
I decided to use a standard project enclosure, this one out of aluminum. Because my front door has a screen door in front, it didn't have to be totally waterproof, but water resistant and weather resistant was definitely an asset.
The principle reason I chose this box was that was big enough for the six momentary switches I bought and that it opened and closed via side screws - as it was to be mounted to the door, I didn't want it to be opened via the back.
Step 4: Mark Out the Position of the Buttons
Put painters tape over the front of the enclosure and mark off a grid for the buttons. I originally intended to have them evenly spaced, but I found the buttons were too big - they couldn't be that close together. I cheated them to the sides and things worked. Lay out your grid and then make sure the buttons will work on it.
Step 5: Drill Out the Holes
Use a punch or a nail to put a dent at each cross point, then use a drill to drill out the holes. You'll have to match the bit to the switch you bought. I then took off the tape and the protective plastic, but I'd recommend leaving the plastic on longer - I got some dings on my box putting in the switches.
Step 6: Insert the Switches.
Insert the switches into the holes. Make sure you figure out where you want the lock button. At this point, the numbers are arbitrary. I decided to hang the box vertically, so my lock button was at the bottom left, but it is completely up to you. Once I decided the orientation, I also put an extra hole in for the that will lead to the other side of the door.
Step 7: Wire Up the Switches
Wire up the switches as per your notes, duplicating the original membrane keypad. I used a piece of Cat5 cable as my wire, but any cable with at least 5 wires will do. With a Cat 5 cable, I had 3 spare wires that I didn't use. I noted the wire colour for each wire number - number 1 was red for me, for instance.
Step 8: Wire Up the Plug
I then went down and took the lock back (with the electronics) off the door. I figured it would be easier to test on my bench than hunched over a door. I wired a six pin header socket at the other end of my cat 5 cable (it was about 6 inches long), putting the colours in the corresponding holes. When I put the batteries in the door back and pressed the buttons on the new keypad, it all worked! Amazing. If only some of the buttons work, check your wiring, especially at the socket - it is easy with those sockets to not quite push the wire in all the way.
Step 9: Mount the Box Back
Mount the box back to the front of the door, just above the lock. You'll need to drill two holes in it and line things up nicely.
Step 10: Mount the Keypad
I unscrewed the lock itself so I could fish the cable through the door, then mounted the keypad on its back.
Step 11: Install the Door Back
Plug in the cable to the door back, give a quick test then install it as per the normal manufacturer's instructions.
Step 12: Finishing Touches
I snipped off the numbers from the membrane keyboard and superglued them to the new keypad. I didn't use the lock button as it was, for some reason, an oval which didn't fit. I figured the red button was obvious enough anyways. I also re-opened the keypad and put hotglue over the switch connections to further dampproof the keypad. And that's the end!