Intro: Crochet Shoulder Bag
This shoulder bag is easy to make and very useful. I developed this pattern myself. Depending on the type of thread or yarn you use, it can look very different even though you've followed the same pattern. So, have fun experimenting with different types of thread/yarn. It is a bag that lets YOU be creative!
This instructable focuses on the brown bag, but I have also included a picture here of a blue-grey bag that I made using this same pattern; however, it was made from a strong and coarse cotton yarn (it was actually recycled netting fibre) to show you how different the bag can look depending on what fibre/yarn you decided to use.
To all you lefties out there I am left handed and crocheted this bag left-handed. It can, however, just as easily be crocheted right-handed. The pattern works for both.
Step 1: Supplies & Stitches
For this bag I used chocolate brown chenille yarn along with a lighter shade for the accent rows , trim and buttons. As I already mentioned, feel free to experiment with different fibers!
Dark Chocolate Brown: 8– 50 gram balls – 65 meters per ball
Lighter shade Brown: 2 – 50 gram balls
36 inches of cording for bag strap (optional)
Crochet hook Size G
Remnant for lining, needle and thread
Sewing machine and or serger – not essential, but if making lining for bag makes it quick and easy!
Stitches used and abbreviations:
Single crochet: sc
Double crochet: dc
Double crochet two together: dc 2 tog
Triple crochet - tr
Shell edging: dc 7 times into stitch
Slip stitch: sl st
Step 2: Swatch (Optional)
I always make a swatch before I start my project and I make it approximately 3 x 5. I do this for a few reasons:
1) I like to get an idea of how the yarn I am using is going to crochet
2) Not all the yarns I use come with labels and I like to know how a yarn is going to fair in the washing machine and dryer so that I can pass along care instructions to whoever I am gifting my bag to. It also saves a lot of grief to know beforehand how your yarn takes to being washed and dried – you do not want to ruin your bag after all your hard work!!
3) I then use this swatch (providing it was not ruined by washing etc) to make the pocket for the bag (see Step 12) that will hold an I-phone or other electronic device.
Step 3: Round 1- Round 14
Now you are ready to start your bag!
Make sure to keep the right side of your work facing you (HINT: I keep the little tail from the beginning Chain 4 pulled through to the right side so I have a reminder that the side with the little tail poking through is the right side)
Chain 4 and join to form ring.
Round 1: Chain 3(counts as 1 dc) then work 10 more dc into the ring.
Join with a slip stitch to 3rd chain of initial chain 3 (11 stitches)
Round 2: Chain 3 (counts as first dc) and then dc again into the same stitch as the chain 3. *2 dc into next stitch* repeat between ** for entire round. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of initial chain 3
Round 3: Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc) and then dc again in the same stitch; * dc once in next stitch, then 2dc in next stitch*Repeat between ** for entire round. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of initial chain 3
Round 4: Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc) then dc again in the same stitch; *1 dc in each of next 2 stitches, then 2 dc in next stitch* repeat between ** for entire round. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of initial chain 3
Round 5: Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc) then dc again in the same stitch; *1 dc in each of next 3 stitches, then 2 dc in next stitch* repeat between ** for entire round. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of initial chain 3
Round 6: Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc) then dc again in the same stitch; *1 dc in each of next 4 stitches, then 2 dc in next stitch* repeat between ** for entire round. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of initial chain 3
Do you see the pattern for increasing the size of the base of your bag?
In round 2 you had 2dc in each stitch for entire round. In round 3 you had 1 dc between your 2 dc in one stitch, In round 4 you had 2 dc between, round 5 you had 3, round 6 you had 4…. etc
Round 7-14: Continue to make your circle until you reach the size you desire. I did a total of 14 rounds. This is great because you can use any type of yarn etc and the pattern can adapt to more or less rounds to achieve the size you want.
For this particular bag I increased until I had 12 dc between my 2 dc in 1 stitch ( total of 14 rounds). My diameter at this point using this particular yarn was 16 inches. I wanted to make this bag fairly large.
I now stopped increasing.
Step 4: Rounds 15-20
Rounds 15 – 20 (6rounds): Chain 3 then dc in each stitch for entire round joining with sl st to 3rd chain of the chain 3 that began the round.
You will begin to see that your bag is beginning to curve in.
At this point you can decide to continue on with dc rounds or start to add something decorative to your bag, you decide!! (Read on to the next step, to see instructions for what I did).
Step 5: Rounds 21-35
Rounds 21 and 22 (2): I switched to lighter color
Chain 2 and then sc in each stitch around joining to 2nd chain of beginning chain 2
Rounds 23 –26 (4): I switched back to my darker color
Chain 3 and then dc in each stitch around joining to 3rd chain of beginning chain 3
Next round begins the bumpy pattern stitch: 27 –35
Rounds 27 – 35 as follows:
Round 1: Change back to the lighter shade: Chain 2 then sc in each stitch for entire round join with sl stitch to second chain of chain 2
Round 2: TURN WORK SO WRONG SIDE IS FACING YOU (this is so the bumps will end up on your RIGHT side) the chain 2 acts as your first sc stitch, tr in the next stitch, sc in the next stitch, tr in the next stitch repeat these two stitches alternately for entire round joining with sl stitch in 2nd chain of the chain 2 TURN
Repeat these two rows 4 times (total of 8 rows)
Then repeat round 1 once more.
Step 6: Rounds 36-45
Rounds 36-39 (4) : I switched back to darker brown
Chain 3 and then dc in each stitch around joining to 3rd chain of beginning chain 3
Rounds 40 and 41 (2): I switched to lighter color
Join lighter color and chain 2 then sc in each stitch around joining to 2nd chain of beginning chain 2
I now switched back to the dark brown color.
This is where I began to decrease my rounds for the top of the bag. This is not always necessary but because I made this bag very large in the body the top also grew very wide. The bottom size and the type of yarn you choose will determine how big your top opening is so if the opening needs adjusting as mine did proceed as follows:
Rounds 42 -45
Round 1: Join dark brown color and Chain 3 then dc in each stitch for entire round joining with sl st to 3rd chain of chain 3
Round 2: Chain 3 *dc in next 2 stitches then 2 dc in next stitch* repeat for round then join with sl stitch to 3rd chain of chain 3
Repeat Round 2
Repeat Round 1
The diameter of my opening is now approximately 14 inches
Step 7: Scallop Edge Trim
To make the scallop edge trim for the bag:
Make sure right side of bag is facing you
*Skip 2 stitches, then dc 7 times in the next stitch, skip 2 stitches, then slip stitch into the next stitch* Repeat around (I have 11 scallops)
Step 8: Flap Closure
Using dark brown color:
Sc in 2nd chain from hook (10sc)
Sc for 4 rows
5th row: sc in first 3 stitches, then chain 4, sc in last 3 stitches chain 1 turn
(this is will form the buttonhole)
6th row: sc across chain 1 turn
Continue sc rows until tab measures 6 inches.
Switch to lighter color and sc around entire tab, making 2sc in each corner so that the tab will lay flat
Step 9: Strap
Using dark brown color Chain 12
Sc in 2nd chain from hook (10 sc)
Continue sc rows until strap measures 36 inches (adjust to length you desire)
Fold strap in half, insert cording and crochet shut (the cord is not essential but it prevents the strap from stretching out and stays the length you want it to be)
Switch to lighter color and sc around entire strap, making 2sc in each corner.
Step 10: Buttons
Make a total of 4 buttons: 1 small button for pocket
2 medium buttons for decoration on strap
1 large button for flap
With the lighter shade:
Round 1: Chain 2 – 4 sc in second chain from hook
Round 2: 4 sc in same chain (overlapping previous round)
Round 3: 4 sc in same chain (overlapping previous round
Medium size buttons for straps on side of bag (decorative)
Round 1: Chain 2, 6 sc in second chain from hook
Round 2: 6 sc in same chain (overlapping previous round)
Round 3: 6 sc in same chain (overlapping previous round)
Larger button: flap
Round 1 Chain 2, 8 sc in second chain from hook
Round 2: 8 sc in same chain (overlapping previous round)
Round 3: 8 sc in same chain (overlapping previous round)
Step 11: Lining (Optional)
Cut circle 17 inches in diameter, gather in slightly to attach walls of lining.
If desired make pocket to go on lining for inside bag.
Gather in top of the wall of lining so that it measures 14 inches in diameter and attach binding. Sew lining into bag so that the right side of lining is facing out.
Step 12: Swatch Pocket With Flap (Optional)
The swatch pocket with Flap is made in the dark brown color.
Row 1:Crochet chain same length as swatch (5 inches) (mine was 20 chains)
Row 2:Sc in 2nd chain from hook and sc across Chain 1 turn (18)
Row 3: skip first sc, sc in next 14 stitches, skip next stitch, sc in last stitch chain 1 turn (16)
Row 4: skip first sc, sc in next 6 stitches, chain 2 (instead of sc in next 2 stitches) sc in
next 6 stitches, skip next stitch, sc in last stitch chain 1 and turn (14)
Row 5: skip first sc, sc in next 6 stitches, 2 sc in the chain two, sc in next 6 stitches, skip next stitch sc in last stitch chain 1 and turn (14)
Step 13: Putting It All Together
Sew pocket to the center of the back of the bag, then attach the pocket flap to the back of the bag along the top of the pocket
Sew straps to sides of bags
Sew flap closure to the center of the bag.
Congratulations! Your bag is complete!