Cross Inlay Cutting Board

Introduction: Cross Inlay Cutting Board

About: I am a Christian and Love my God! I am single, I live with my family. I was home schooled, I have my B.A. in Criminal Justice and I am working on getting my Masters. I do woodworking as a hobby, God has give...

Made this for my friend and her husband as a gift for their wedding that was today

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Step 1: Getting the Right Witdh

I did not have a board wide enough to use so I decided to use two boards. I took the biscuit jointer and cut along the side of both baords.. I centered the cut in the side to prevent one side from breaking..(I didn't find out till later that you don't need to cut all the way down the board.. just every 6"...)

Step 2: Gluing

I then used the biscuits and glued the two boards together.. I screwed to strips together to keep the boards from bending while being clamped together..

Step 3: Prepping the Glued Boards

Once the boards have glued, I ran the glued piece through the planer to even it out

Step 4: Measuring for the Cross

After the board it level I marked the center tip and bottom, side to side of the board... I then went 3/4 to the right and left from the center of the board at the top.. next I went 2" and 1/2" from the center toward the top of the board.. I then erased the center line going from side to side... leaving the the image in the last pic.

Step 5: Cutting Out the Cross

This would be easier to do with a dado blade... but sadly I don't have one.. so what I did was make consecutive swips moving the board a little each swipe.. then taking a pry bar or chisel I knocked out the pieces that were left..

Step 6: Cut the Pieces for Cross

I then measured the slots to cut the 2x4 pieces for the cross.. placing them it to make sure that they fit...

Step 7: Gluing the Pieces

glue and clamp the pieces down

Step 8: Cut Off the Excess and Level

once the pieces have glued, I cut them off as close to the board as possible... once complete run through the planer to level up...

Step 9: Router and Sand

then I took the router with a rounding bit and round the edges... after rounding the edges of both front and back I sanded it down with 150 grit sandpaper...

Step 10: Optional Customization

print off your name or saying that you are wanting and use the carbon paper to trace it on to the piece of wood... then take the dremel tool with the carving bit to cut it out... I used black spray paint to paint the wording black... then sanded it off...

Step 11: Wax Coating

I used a gulf wax and mineral oil mix, did four coats 20mins apart... scraping off the excess wax after each coat..

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    2 Discussions


    3 years ago

    Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but you've violated one of the most important rules in woodworking, which is NEVER to glue together pieces of wood with grains running at right angles. Virtually all of the natural wood movement (swelling and shrinking) happens only in the direction across the grain. So when this board swells and shrinks with humidity, the horizontal arms of the cross will stay stable, and the walnut will try to swell and shrink. Either the glue joint will fail or the walnut will split. Hopefully the joint will fail, and when you repair it, cut the pine across the grain and insert it with the grain running in the same direction as the walnut.

    Any time you need to join wood with grain at right angles, you need to use a joint that will allow the pieces to move relative to each other. That's why frame and panel construction leaves the panels "floating"; it's why the end caps on a breadboard-style top are joined with a tongue-and-groove and only glued in the center; and it's why the top of a dining room table is never glued to the aprons and legs--it's always fastened with a method that allows movement.


    Reply 3 years ago

    Thank you for your comment.. I am new to woodworking and appreciate the information.. I learn as I go.. so I as sure that information will be helpful in the future thank you