Well it hasn't been too long since I made my wired Altoids mouse. I just picked up a logitech LX7 mouse for nothing and decided I don't need another regular mouse.
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Step 1: Materials
I've done everything in an office setting. (yes this is a child of boredom)
Tape (I used scotch tape and white foam tape if you have electrical tape use it!)
Logitech LX7 mouse (could use another kind if you are good at adapting)
Small piece of foam board
Small piece of cardboard
AAA batteries (This normally uses AA but for space concerns AAA will fit better)
Step 2: Disassembly: the Beginning
Time to take off those pads on the bottom of the mouse as well as the battery cover. You will see a screw under each pad and 2 screws in the battery compartment. Make sure you save your pads because you can use them on your mouse.
Step 3: Disassembly 2: Disembowelment
Be careful when you are pulling the top off because the 2 buttons are attached with wires to the top.
There is a small screw on the top to remove to get the LED thing off and be able to pull the chip out. There are just 2 little clips that push back easy to get the chip free. After this you can go to the mouse main board and pull out the 6 pin white connector and it will release the top fully.
With a little bit of prying you can pop out the battery compartment. I am not going to use it because it will not fit but the connector will save me some time on soldering. I am going to save that however for future projects.
Step 4: Disassembly: One Wheel to Rule Them All
This time around I want the scroll wheel on the mouse. Last time it just wasn't feasible with the mouse I used for parts.
Take out the single screw in front of the mouse. This will make the bottom housing fall off of the board. Make sure you save this screw you will use it. Pick up the bottom housing and use the box cutter to cut off the screw hole the screw you just removed was in. It was easiest for me to just use pliers and the screw driver to get this back together. Don't torque it too much or you will strip it. For added stability I put a tiny bit of glue on the end.
Step 5: Measurements
I traced the tin to get a basic on where I am putting the board. The optics measure 1cmc3cm with 2 little notches. I offset it 1.5cm over and 2 cm up from the bottom left corner of the tin (easier to see in the picture). Then I cut out my trace and the hole to be cut and affixed it temporarily to the bottom so I could mark the bottom with a sharpie to cut.
Step 6: Cut It!
I cut down the middle length-wise to be able to peel it back. The more accurate you are with this means the prettier your end product will be.
Step 7: Insulation
Cut the small piece of cardboard to this shape to put into the bottom of the mouse to prevent contact with the metal. This also helps snug up the optics a bit.
Step 8: Lining It Up
With folding back the metal it made it somewhat uneven inside. I used some of the foam tape to level out the piece of cardboard so the board will lay flat inside. The two holes were put in for the power and reset buttons. They can be pushed with a pen or paper clip.
Step 9: Top Cut
To decide where to put the split for the 2 buttons I took the top off the tin and lined it up with the wheel in place. I had to cut and bend then try the top on a few times before I had it so the wheel had enough room to be functional.
Step 10: Button Up
I put a small piece of foam board on each of the buttons. I tacked it lightly with super glue to keep it in place then I put a bent paper clip on top of each piece for easier clicking.
Step 11: Battery
The original AA batteries and housing weren't going to fit no matter what. So I cut the wires to use the plug and made a AAA pack with masking tape and metal from the old housing. In the second picture it shows the basics on making the pack.
Step 12: FIN!
Plug the battery in and you are good to go I used the top 2 spare buttons with LED for a battery check to make sure I was getting power.
All that is left is to plug in the USB dongle and rock out.