DIY AA Battery Powered Charging Station : 18 Steps

I use Instructables.com quite a bit for my DIY projects. I always wanted to make my own Instruct able, I saw the Traveling Contest and thought "what a great way to give back to my favorite DIY website" I want to share my version of the Minty Boost Kit v3.0 adn also how to get it started from scratch. Now let's get started.

Solder skill: Amateur

NOTE: This instructable requires more than a few steps, but trust me the pay off is worth it.

PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH ANYTHING INVOLVING ELECTRICITY

LINK: https://www.adafruit.com/products/14

Step 1: Step 1: Gather Parts

Parts Included in Minty Boost: (or if you want to build the kit from scratch)

10uH power inductor, at least 1A current capability, RLB9012-10 (1)

1N5818 (or 1N5817, etc) Schottky Diode (1)

USB type A female jack (1)

2 x AA battery holder (1)

Circuit board (1)

1/8W 1% 49.9K resistor Yellow White White Red Brown (2)

1/8W 1% 75K resistor Violet Green Black Red Brown (2)

8-Pin IC Socket (1)5V boost converter, LT1302CN8-5 (1)

Power supply capacitor 220uF/6.3V+ (2)

Bypass capacitor (0.1uF) (2)

1/8W 5% 3.3K resistor Orange Orange Red Gold (1)

Altoids Gum tin

TOOLS

Soldering Iron
Wire cutters
Multi-meter (optional)
Good quality solder

Step 2: Step 2: Solder the 3.3K Resistor

Insert the 3.3K resistor into location R5 on the board. This resistor is not polarized so the direction you insert it does not matter.
Solder in the resistor
Clip the leads

Step 3: Insert the 75K 1% Resistors

Insert the resistors into spots R2 and R4. these are the resistors with the color code Violet-Green-Black-Red-Brown. Be sure to double-check the color code.
Solder the resistors in(these are not polarized as well)
Clip the leads

Step 4: Insert and Solder the Remaining Resistors

In locations R1 and R3, insert the resistors with color code Yellow-White-White-Red-Brown.
Solder in the Resisters (Also not polarized)
Clip the leads

Step 5: Insert the 0.1uF Ceramic Capacitors

In locations C1 and C2, insert the two yellow ceramic capacitors. (the direction which they are placed does not matter)
Solder
Clip

Step 6: Insert the Schottky Diode

In location D1, insert the black component with the silver stripe.
Solder it in and then clip the leads.

Step 7: Insert the IC Socket

The IC socket goes over the 3.3K Resistor (but make sure that you match up the notch on the socket with the notch on the picture above)
Be sure that the socket is flat on the PCB, and carefully solder the socket in.

Step 8: Insert the Inductor

In location L1 insert the inductor. (It does not matter in which direction you insert the component)
Solder it in and clip the leads.

Step 9: Insert the Electrolytic Capacitors

In locations C3 and C4, insert the blue electrolytic capacitors.(These capacitors are polarized) so make sure that the longer lead of the capacitor is inserted into the hole marked with a "+" on the image shown above.
Solder them in and then clip the wires.

Step 10: Solder in the Battery Holder

The red wire of the battery holder should be inserted into the hole marked with the "+".
Then the black wire should be inserted into the hole marked with the "-".
Solder these wires in
If necessary clip the leads.

Step 11: Insert the Chip

With the notch on the chip matched up with the notch on the socket, press the chip into the socket. Press it all the way into the socket to make sure it is secure.

Step 12: Test,Test,Test

Begin by inserting two AA batteries into the battery holder. Either rechargeable or alkaline batteries will work.
Set your multimeter to read voltage, and place the red test lead on the leftmost pin and the black test lead on the rightmost pin.
The voltage reading should be between 5V and 5.2V. If not, then check to make sure your batteries are healthy (as well as the batteries in your multimeter).
Test Again. This time between the rightmost pin and the second and third pin.
Your multimeter should measure around 2V.
Once everything checks out OK, remove the batteries and continue finishing the kit.

Step 13: Insert the USB Type-A Connector

The USB Type-A Connector should snap easily into place.
Solder the four middle pins first and then the two outside mechanical pins.

Step 14: One More Test

Before you start assembling the enclosure, connect the charger to an iPod or other USB-powered device.
Make sure that your device begins to charge. Once you know that it is charging, you can build the enclosure.
NOTE: The chip will get very hot while charging. This is normal so don't worry about it.

Step 15: Making the Enclosure

Gather your empty Altoids gum tin.
Cut or Dremel two notches in the end of the tin around the area where the flat part ends and the tin starts to round out.
Bend this flap back and forth and break it off. (Now for the final step)

Step 16: Finaly Done

Insert the finished charging station into the tin. (with a bit of tape or some glue)
It is important that there is no contact between the circuit board and the metal enclosure. This would cause a short in the circuit.
Insert the 2 AA batteries into the slots. Now enjoy your wireless charging my friend.

Step 17: (OPTIONAL) Add Charging Dock for More Charging Potential

I personally added a charging station so I can charge my Samsung and my iPod at the same time on the go.

This one I found online for around $20 at https://jet.com/product/21649d77db2f4926adac69aaeadb2207?jcmp=pla--ggl--electronics_other--electronics_networking_hubs_switches_other--.--.--.--.--.--2&code=PLA15&k_clickid=796c9596-e762-422a-8c2d-9948901f82c2&kpid=21649d77db2f4926adac69aaeadb2207&gclid=CjwKEAjwxYGuBRCtoqjkrIPDqDwSJAAnd-rCp06hPTbQvtVpqeFat18a__KjlmC8ubm344-aXjVUqhoCC_nw_wcB

(I know that's a bit pricy but i'm sure you can find it for cheaper but this one was perfect for me)