DIY Bladeless Fan From Scratch




About: Being a science student i love to indulge in projects related to engineering as i love to learn things practically...

The day I came across a bladeless fan, I was very fancicated by how simple and cool that Idea behind a bladeless fan is.

That same day I decided to built one for my nephew so that he wont hurt himself while having cold breeze during hot summer days.

So, In this instructable I am going to built a bladeless fan using very common material such as a bunch of PVC pipes, a plastic bowl and some fibre glass sheet. The best part about this bladeless fan is that unlike most of the DIY bladeless fans built out there I am going to keep this project accessible to all of you without including the need of 3D printing any body parts. This also makes the project to complete under 10 USD.

This project is sponsored by JLCPCB so have a look at their website as these guys are offering some great quality PCBs at dirt cheap prices.

Free Shipping on First Order & $2 PCB Prototype on

If you like this project then don't forget to vote me in the contests.

So without any further delay lets get building....

Step 1: Required Materials and Tools

The tools and materials required for this project are easily avaliable. The material required for this project is a bunch of PVC pipes measuring 6,5,and 3.5 inch in diameter , a plastic bowl and a 3mm sheet of fibre glass etc.

There is no need of a 3d printer as used in most of the DIY bladeless fan projects out there. Moreover I have used a miter saw to make most of the cuts as it made the job a bit accurate and easier but the same job can be done by using a handsaw and some patience..... so need of expensive tools to make a neat bladeless fan.

Step 2: Working Principle

As contrast to the name of the device being a bladeless fan, that thing actually have a rather high speed blade inside its main enclosure.

Besides that a bladeless fan offers an enclosed operation of blade and the air flow is then directed through a closed channeled body replicating the structure of a usual fan casing with the abscense of blades. This design offers great level of protection for kids.

Step 3: Making the

To begin with I started by making the main body and for that I am going to use PVC Pipe.

The main outlet is made of 6 inch diameter PVC pipe which is cut 4 inch wide to form the outer casing of the air outlet enclosure.

To form an air pocket inside the main air outlet I have used a tapered shape bowl that fits the 6 inch PVC pipe perfectly with its collar sitting on the edges of the pipe. So I cut the bowl from 1 inch above its bottom so that it forms a nice tapered collar inside the main outlet housing which allows the air to rotate inside the outlet cavity uniformly before leaving it.

Step 4: Inner Collar and Base

The inner collar for the air outlet is made out of a 5 inch diameter PVC pipe. This pipe forms a narrow opening that is nearly 0.5 inch wide for the air to uniformly spread out of the cavity/ air outlet. The three parts namely the outer 6 inch PVC pipe, the tapered inner casing made out of plastic bowl and the inner collar made out of 5 inch PVC pipe together forms the air outlet housing.

To form the base I have used a 3.5inch PVC pipe cut down to 5 inch height. To make the base perfectly fit the air outlet housing I have cut down one end of the base pipe in curved shape which I have traced by using some electrical tape and the outline marked with the 6 inch PVC pipe. The pipe is then cut down using a jig saw and then sanded using a sand paper to perfectly fit the outer 6 inch pipe without any gaps in between.

Step 5: Air Inlet Hole

Before gluing the base to the main housing I have drilled a 3 inch diameter hole in the 6 inch PVC pipe which will act as the passage for the air to enter into the main housing/air outlet. The hole is made using a hole saw.

The base is then glued to the outer part of the air outlet using super glue. Since the base pipe is perfectly shaped to sit on the 6 inch PVC pipe so the super glue made a very strong joint between the two pieces.

Step 6: Air Outlet Ring

The ring for the air outlet is made using a 3 mm thick fibre glass sheet which serves as a joint between the inner half and the outer half of the main Air outlet.

The ring is made using a jig saw.

Step 7: Painting

As most of the body parts are ready so i decided to give them a paint job to make them look neat and perfect. I painted everything white using a spray paint except of the fibre glass ring which is protected from paint using some electrical tape.

The end results are good and the blue fibre glass sheet just look fantastic on flawless white finish.

Step 8: LED Light Strip

To make the design more attractive and elegant I added a 12v LED light strip on the inner side of the air outlet at the end where the fibre glass sheet is going to be glued with the inner air outlet collar. The light strip is cut down to the required length. The strip offers a sticky back on removing the protective coating from the rear side of the strip and later sticking it to the PVC housing.

This way when I power up the fan the LED strip illuminates the rear side of the air outlet and thus producing a very cool effect on the front end spreading blue light.

Step 9: Gluing All Parts

As the pain dried I started gluing all the parts together to form the main body of our baldeless fan using super glue that seems to hold everything firmly.

Step 10: Mounting the Fan

Well behind every bladeless fan there is actually a fan with blades :P

So to power this bladeless fan I am going to use a 12v DC high speed fan that I have got from old computer scrap. More specifically that is a server fan which is way more powerful than a usual PC fan So I would highly recommend you using this type of fan.

The fan is mounted inside the base just beneath the air outlet housing using four wood screws to hold the fan firmly in place. The fan is mounted such that to force the air in upward direction and thus we need the fan to have quiet a bit of extra muscle.

Step 11: Air Inlet

A pair of air inlet are made just below the server fan on both side of the base pipe. These inlet holes are going to allow the air to be sucked inside the base.

To prevent someone to accidentally hurt fingers by inserting his/her fingers into the base of the fan, I have glued metal net on both the inlets. The net is first painted matt black and then glued front inside the base using hot glue.

Step 12: The Speed Control Unit

As I was just finishing up the project I decided to go with the idea of using PWM speed controller to this fan so that I can regulate the amount of air coming out of the fan and thus the noice levels too.

To do so I have designed a simple PWM speed controller circuit and also a dedicated PCB using autocad eagle. Learning to design schematic and later designing a PCB was made easy by instructables Basic Electronics and PCB Design classes. So have a look at these well described useful lessons.

The circuit works on a basic principal. It uses a 555 timer IC which switches a transistor several times during each second and the switching speed depends on the resistance provided by the potentiometer. Thus by turning the knob of the pot we can regulate the with of the out pulse and thus controlling the speed of the server fan.

I am attaching all the data including schematic, bill of materials and gerber files for the PWM circuit which might be needed to get one ordered from the website.

Besides that take a look at the JLCPCB as they are offering a great offer on your first order, so you can order 10 PCB including free shipment under just 2 USD.

After soldering all the components on the PCB I have counted the PCB on the front side of the base with the knob of the potentiometer popping out of the front side with a nice knob attached to regulate the speed of the fan.

Step 13: Base Plate

To finish up everything I have hot glued the circuit on the base. Later I have cut down a fiber glass sheet and then screwed it to the base of the fan using two wooden blocks glued inside the base.

To stop fan from moving here and there while operating, I have glued four rubber pads to the base.

The fan is ready to roll....

Step 14: End Results

This project went fabulous. At the start I was puzzeled to built the proper enclosure without using a 3d printed part but as I rolled down with the project everything seems to perfectly fit with one another and for sure that plastic bowl made the job done perfectly.

The end results are pretty awesome considering the fact that using some of the very limited tools and commonly available hardware I ended up with almost piece of perfection..... Yes a DIY Bladeless Fan ....

Any suggestions are more than welcome, besides that have a look at the built video of this project on my youtube channel and don't forget to subscribe to my channel for more upcoming projects.

Till then have fun building and learning some awesome stuff at Instructables.


DIY King



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    79 Discussions


    Question 2 months ago

    I am using the speed controller circuit for making an evaporative air cooler is it fine with you


    4 months ago

    Great instructable. An actual circuit diagram would be helpful.


    4 months ago

    VERY Nice project, thanks for showing how these dyson fans work and thanks for all for the awesome advice once the nit-picking was out of the way LOL !

    An awesome build and yes not everyone has a 3D Printer so using commonly found items was a real bonus treat !!

    But the Anet A8 is a very cheap 3D Printer that works right out the box, but definitely needs a lot of 3D Printed upgrades, its a very low cost 3D Printer that has helped so very many including myself to get onto the 3D Printing ladder, doesnt take long to save up for one of these either, perfect gift to treat yourself with !

    PS - Possible upgrades:
    >> using a piezo 113khz disc to use as a mist maker inside the middle of the fan

    >> Using a pan/tilt mechanism with an IR Remote control like the Dyson, but Dyson only has pan, no tilt, there is manual tilt though...

    >> use a cheap low-heat heating element to have warmth in the winter just like the dyson but may need to select different materials that can widthstand the heat
    12v 50 watt PTC Heater element;,searchweb201602_1_10065_10068_10130_10547_319_317_10548_10696_10192_10190_453_10084_454_10083_433_10618_431_10307_10820_10301_10821_10303_537_536_10059_10884_10887_100031_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_45,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=2a27eb2b-902a-478e-ab13-21758516d8bb-40&algo_pvid=2a27eb2b-902a-478e-ab13-21758516d8bb&transAbTest=ae803_4


    1 year ago

    It would have been nice if you had explained to everyone how this design works. It's known as the Coanda Effect and the Best Part is that it is the reason that Dyson hasn't Patented their Bladeless Fan Design. As the Coanda Effect was demonstrated in 1800 by English Inventor Thomas Young and later Patented by Henri Coanda. Therefore Dyson can't Patent something that has been in the Public Domain for more than 100 Years. Also, wouldn't a 120V Server Fan with a Rheostat to control the Fan Speed be a much easier way of doing things. I really do like your ingenuity though in Replicating the Dyson Bladeless Fan as it shows those of us who are Tinkerers that a lot of the stuff out in the marketplace is exorbitantly Over-Priced.

    1 reply

    9 months ago

    Anyone know of a higher current transistor to use in the board then the one listed in the schematic. I’m looking for something capable or 1.5 amps. I am gonna put a heat sink on it.
    Any help will be much appreciated.

    1 reply

    4 months ago

    Nice job. How noisy is the fan you used? Some of those server fans are extremely loud. How stable is the base? it looks like it would easily topple over, unless weighted down.
    If you had to buy all the parts it'll likely cost easily over what you paid, more like $100-$200 USD.
    Interesting project though. thx.


    4 months ago

    That takes a lot of skill and it very cool to see you develop it like that. I admire all that mechanical skill. I will favorite it now. Looks interesting but caution if you don't know what your doing, etc is required.


    1 year ago

    Neat, I am pretty sure Dyson have patents on this!

    PS when fitting feet only put 3 on, that way it will stand level even if it sin't

    4 replies

    Reply 1 year ago

    If one is building this for personal use and not selling and making profit, then the patent law does not apply.


    Reply 5 months ago

    Frankly, I'm dubious of Dyson's patent. It should have been rejected for reasons of 'prior art'. To wit, a nearly identical device for 'entraining' a high volume/low velocity air (or water) flow into a high velocity/low volume flow using an annular Coanda-effect duct was described and illustrated in an article on that effect in the June, 1966 issue of 'Scientific American'.

    I found it a little bit weird reading through this article without seeing any reference to the Coanda effect or its discoverer. Henri-Marie Coanda, a Romanian-French engineer built and briefly flew the world's first (arguably) jet-propelled aircraft near Paris in 1910 (yes, 1910). His plane caught fire on takeoff-- it was a typical sticks-and-fabric aircraft of the day, but with a tube spewing fire inside it. He did manage to land it and get out before it burned completely. It turns out that the plane caught fire because the metal plates he'd placed between the exhaust nozzles and the planes's fuselage fabric entrained the exhaust flames onto the fabric. He eventually figured this out, did some experimentation, wrote a paper and the effect was named for him.


    Reply 1 year ago

    I think the Dyson one uses an Impeller instead of a proper fan, and injection molded parts. Otherwise, there's also Sharper Image's version, so it's possible neither is patented, or both are...


    Reply 1 year ago

    It may look like a Dyson but it is not a Dyson copy.


    1 year ago

    This is an interesting project, but it has one glaring error, that I hope others don't repeat:

    Please - don't use power tools like a drill or a hole saw on material that is being held by your other hand - clamp the material down, and keep both hands as far away as possible from the working surface of the material.

    Had that hole saw slipped, or the material broke, or any number of other potential outcomes occurred, a serious and possibly irreversible injury could have occurred.

    I know this because it has happened to me: I was using a right angle grinder with a cutoff blade to cut a piece of metal; even though I was wearing gloves, I was improperly handling the tool and the blade caught - in an instant it shattered, part of it catching the back of my knuckles. Despite the glove, it cut deep. Fortunately I still had movement in my fingers, and the quick attention of my friend helped (honestly, I should have gone to the ER). To this day I have the scars to remind me of that episode (it was only blind luck I didn't get a piece to my face).

    I was stupid; despite the fact that I normally would use PPE (personal protection equipment) in such a situation, my complacency got the better of my that day. I do my best now not to let such a situation happen again.

    5 replies

    Reply 1 year ago

    Completely agree. Also goes for hand tools. Held wood in left hand, chisel on the other hand. 7 stitches in the thumb.


    Reply 5 months ago


    You seem to miss the point of these articles - the clue is in the name.
    It's not just showcasing someone's project, it's instructing as well. Suggesting that holding a plastic pipe in one hand and controlling a circular saw in the other is bad practice. You say you have been using power tools for 41 years and still have your fingers. That does not mean that what you are arguing for is safe. Fortunately, I worked in a large, potentially dangerous, industry. Pipe-cutting was just one of the routine jobs. What my company did to safeguard themselves and workers was to run courses on safe practices. If I had gone on a course where pipe-cutting was done as shown here, someone would have been shown the door. Don't dismiss "it only takes once". Many folk die or get horribly injured by the "just once". Many of the readers of these articles are young, inexperienced kids. There is no harm in pointing out the dangers.


    Reply 5 months ago

    Looks horribly dangerous.
    For starters, the pipe looks like ducting grade, not the stronger soil pipe (drainage) grade, so flimsy to start with.
    The teeth spacing on a circular saw blade as shown is greater than the thickness of the material, so with the RPM as well, a snatch is going to happen sooner or later.
    A much safer way is either use a fine tooth picture framing saw and guide. Failing that, mark the cut line with tape and use a 32-tpi hacksaw blade.


    Reply 5 months ago

    Those that are adept at using tools can safely cut thin items with a coarse blade.
    You need to engage slowly & use slow, steady pressure on the blade.
    The power saw never "grabs" the material. The operator makes it grab.
    Those that are not adept should use the handsaw. I have seen people cut themselves with a handsaw. They should never use any cutting tools.
    Similar scenario with the holesaw. The holesaw never slips. The operator does.
    My point is: the guy who posted the instructable may know what he is doing & does not need people worrying about his safety. I mean no malice or a-holism; just pointing out facts.