DIY: Carbide Line Scriber





Introduction: DIY: Carbide Line Scriber

About: I enjoy building things and being creative.

Like many of my fellow instruct-a-nauts I up-cycle/re-cycle as much as I can. Many of the parts in this instructable have been repurposed. Primarily I built this scribe to get a center line on the knives I build, but this can be used for many other things. During the design process I had thought a squared slide arm would be best. After scrounging my parts and supplies I found this 3/8" aluminum tube that was threaded and had its own screw. perfect match! and it is much easier to drill a circular hole than a square one.

I hope you find this useful and as always feel free to ask any question and please vote and rate as you see fit, thank you!!

1 1/2" x 1/4" aluminum bar stock
3/8" aluminum tubing (I got this from a broken DVD rack, one side is already drilled and tapped with its own screw included)
scribe refill
3/8" rubber nipple
assorted screws

belt sander
drill press
center punch
drill bits
tap and die set
sand paper

Step 1: Sizing and Cutting

  1. Grab your aluminum bar stock ( you could use steel as well) and cut off a 2" to 3" section.
  2. With a sharpie and square mark your center. Also mark the center at the top of the bar stock.
  3. Using a center punch make a pilot hole.

Step 2: Drilling Your Holes

  1. Drill your first 3/8" hole in the bar stock where you marked. a clamp might be needed.
  2. On the top of the bar stock drill your 7/32" hole for the set screw. make sure it is centered.
  3. 7/64" drill bit is used for the 3/8" aluminum tube. you want to set the hole about 1/4" from the edge. Depending on the scribe you find this hole might need to be a different size.

Step 3: Tapping the Top

OK! this was the first time i have tapped any thing, I am not an expert on this subject. Infact, I broke a tap and had to shorten the bar stock, live and learn.
  1. Get cutting lube and the tap.
  2. Tap it! be sure to back out every half turn or so and do no apply too much pressure!

Step 4: Sand and Polish

  1. Square your edges using a belt sander
  2. sand and polish the front of your bar stock.

Step 5: Putting It All Together

  1. Grab that bar stock and insert the aluminum tube through the hole.
  2. Add the set screw.
  3. Insert the carbide tip and set screw.
  4. Put the rubber nipple in the back of the tubing.
Your'e done! This is a tool that will serve you for many years and it costs almost nothing. These things run $25-$40.

If you have and questions or comments please leave them at the bottom.
Thanks for looking.

Step 6: UPDATE

I added some measurements to the side of the arm of the scribe, It ain't pretty but it works!



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    18 Discussions

    I think you should put a set screw in the bottom to hold the scribe in place. It would make it be flush to the bottom of the bar and it would also look a lot more professional. Just saying.

    Hi desertsniper :
    Have owned & used 3 @ Armalite AR 10's, over the years, 1 @ H&K G3A3, folding bipod, scope, etc, 1@ Olympic Arms AR15, a tac driver. 9 M1 Carbines etc. Broke hip, 2005, 2 years on crutches, osteo arthritis in both shoulders, so not shooting anymore. Sold the last of our target pistols 2 years ago. Shot competetively, NZ, Aus, Canada, and USA.
    The laws / regs, in many USA states, regarding firearm related items, seem to me to be varied, & not logical.
    Here in NZ, if you do not wish to make noise, when shooting, simply obtain & use a suppressor. I have been researching, building, and using them for over 40 years. NO govt rip off tax, registration, or threat of years in prison.

    1 reply

    Hi desertsniper :
    Nice structible, a very useful tool. I built something very similar, about 25 years ago, using a broken #40 drill bit, for the scribe, Has a flat milled on the shaft, to position the set screw. What have you been sniping with, in the desert ? Some years ago, I sold my Mc Millan .300 Win Mag, kevlar thumb hole stock, KDF muzzel arrestor brake, guaranteed 1/2 minute of angle, from the factory.
    Pretty much retired, now, make the odd custom suppressor,( been involved with suppressors for over 40 years ), as there are no restrictions on them here, in NZ. No one complains, if there is no noise.

    1 reply

    Hello, yeah I was going to go a similar direction but this way was easier. I have a Remington 700 with a B&C stock and timney trigger and a few other rim fire precision rifles. I wish I could use and build suppressors! But sadly here in CA it is very illegal. Take it easy and thanks for the kind words!

    desertsniper ive make a leather Stitching wheel,,,
    your tool & after re reding your work i see the Carbide line scriber ...i think it will make a to part tool metal scribe,, & with a wider bit i dont know the name the tool used in leather work to make a thin grover befor useing your leather stiting wheel.. so the stitching in inset a bit thanks agin any good ideas welcome bruce5000

    4 replies

    awesome! i'd love to see some pictures! please rate and vote for my instructable if you found it useful. thanks again!

    im thinking to use a alen tool rond one end to change from scribe to grover just my take on you very usfull tool

    both are allen heads on these screws. I will have to make a groover for my leather work too! thanks for the idea.

    good work with these to tools one can scribe a knife edge & grove leather for useing your stitching wheel nice post thanks

    Good job, This is a must for any toolbox. I made one for metal about 20 years ago and use it daily. Best tool and most used tool I ever made.

    1 reply

    Some sharpen their scribes chisel edged like knives, not points. But then you have to pay attention to how the scribe is mounted. I like how your scriber came out.

    1 reply