Are you or someone you know a Star Wars enthusiast? Love that cute little porg from the The Last Jedi? Have no problem letting your winter headgear be excentric? Then I have an excellent crochet project for you!
Don’t know how to crochet? It’s ok, any beginners guide to “hooking” (as we call it) on YouTube will help you along. This project uses “sc” single crochet, “hdc” half double crochet, “dc” double crochet, and some stitches (sc, hdc and or dc) that share the same hole which widens the project’s next row’s stitch count (great for growing the hat to any head circumference and shape) and skipping stitches, which helps reduce the size of something or help round out the design in a pinch. I also use sc to help stitch the layered color into the hat itself. As he go through this project you’ll notice the original had no “exact count” as this is my first and only attempt at my porg hat. This may frustrate the “regular crocheter”, what I can offer you if you’re an avid crocheter is to use your instinct. To all of the beginners out there, there are instructions on how to make the base line hat and then you can switch back to my design for the overlapping design, or design as I did and use your head as reference for the addition in stitches, as well as length of your hat.
As always I’ll do my best to answer any questions you may have about this awesome hat and it’s instructions.
The project requires use of certain brands of yarn which may be too expensive for some. If you choose to go with another yarn, your project will not look like mine. You can combat the thickness of your different yarn and crochet with both ends of the skein so long as the alien is not rolled into a ball where only one yarn access point is available to you.
The materials I used were:
1 White skein of “bernat blanket” extra chunky yarn. ($9.99)
1 Heather Grey Skein “Red Heart Saver” ($3.49)
1 Light Grey Skein “Red Heart Saver” ($3.49)
1 Black Skein “Red Heart Saver” ($3.49)
1 Tan Skein “Red Heart Saver” ($3.49)
1 Gold Skein “Red Heart Saver” ($3.49)
1 6.0 Hook
1 4.5 hook
(Hooks usually come in packs for about $5 - $10 depending on the amount in the pack. Also note, unless you’re interested in creating doilies or lace in the future, don’t buy a set with the ultra fine hooks)
1 yarn needle (again I’d advise to get a pack of them. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve lost them in the couch, dropped them on the floor or put them in a pocket, never to be seen again. Packs can be $3-$5+ depending on how many you buy. For this project you’ll want your yarn needle(s) to have wide heads (opening(s) for you to be able to stuffyour yarn through. The wider the better.
1 fabric ruler.
(It’s been a while since I’ve purchased one but I’m sure they’re a couple of bucks...you’ll need this for circumference accuracy, especially if you want to remake the design for other people -who may have different sized heads, this includes babies, children, teens and adults.) If you have no access to a fabric ruler and want to try a ruler or measuring tape, best of luck. Most adult heads have a 21-23” circumference, so when designing for another adult, set project down to measure one side. When the hat measures half the above measurement at its widest point, you’ll know you’ve done the top right, and only have to work on the length of the hat from there.)
The Porg hat I made was designed for my low-ponytail-wearing-head. I have youngsters at home so low and back is where it’s at ALL THE TIME ?. My hat was designed same day all within a 4 hour span. It’s not to say it can’t be done faster, but even the craftiest crafters (if you happen to be a parent) cant put parenting on hold to time your project accurately. ??
So without further ado the first step for your porg hat is making the “base” white hat with the super thick yarn.
Step 1: PORG BODY - WHITE SKULL CAP DIRECTIONS
Usually I would have step by step visual instructions, but I made this with the intention of it being a one of a kind item that I could have for the opening night at the movies. (Being a stay at home mom, getting out to the movies usually NEVER happens so I wanted something to remember it by. My kids love it now and there are fights on who gets to talk to it. lol!)
Skull cap base
Row 1: Slip knot, put hook in loop, pull tail so the slip knot gives you a workable loop (not too tight and not too lose), CH3, HDC6 into first chain (Tip: while crocheting for this project, make sure you always collect 2 out of 3 of the strands of yarn created while making the stitches, this will give your final product body and durability), SC1 into first HDC to create a circle. Tip: You will be repeating the last step for every row going forward but into a CH instead so make sure when you close the circle you attach it to the top of the CH which to you will be CH number 2. *Please remember these stitches were to support wearing a low ponytail and are not for a typical tight skullcap. If you need a pattern for a tighter skullcap you’re welcome to search YouTube but remember to search the extra chunky yarn before relying on a different pattern. You can always reduce the size by changing the amount of stitches you use within the pattern I have, rely on your own noggin to get the right shape for your head, or if it’s for someone else, you can also use this site for actual measurements for hats as well (site). I’ve used this site for years making all types of hats and outfits, it’s a commendable site for measurements. Row 2: CH2, DC2 in first stitch, DC3 in next stitch, DC2 in next stitch, DC3 in next stitch, DC2 in next stitch, DC2 in next stitch, DC3 in next stitch, SC1 into CH2 to connect. Row 3: CH2, DC2 in next stitch , DC2, DC2 in next stitch, DC1, 4DC2 in next stitches, DC4, 3DC2 in next stitches, ,DC3, SC intoCH2 to connect. Row 4: CH2, DC1 in same stitch (ISS), DC5, DC2 in next stitch (INS), DC6, DC2 INS, DC1, DC2 INS, DC1, DC2 INS, DC2 in next 3 stitches (IN3S), DC1, DC2 INS, DC1, DC2 IN2S, DC2, SC1 into CH2 to connect.
CH2, DC2, DC2 INS, DC1, DC2 INS, DC6, DC2 INS, DC2, DC2 INS, DC1, DC2 INS, DC2, DC2 IN2S, DC3, DC2 INS, DC4, DC2 INS, DC4, DC2 INS, DC2, SC1 into CH2 to connect.
Row 6: CH2, DC25, DC2 INS, DC1, DC2 INS, DC27, SC1 into CH2 to connect.
Row 7: CH2, DC 59, SC 1 into CH2 to connect.
Row 8 & Row 9: Repeat Row 7, slip stitch, pull yarn through to create a tail; clip yarn still attached to skein for project to release. (Repeat this step every time you finish a color). Depending on how much you pulled through, your yarn tail will be that long. Some projects require longer tails. For the white, it is hard to sew in so I have tied a couple knots within stitches upwards in the cap that was just created so that it wasn't down along the rim of the hat.
CONGRATS YOU'VE MADE THE SKULL CAP!
Step 2: PORG HEAD
Using the same white, extra chunky yarn, recreate the start of the skull cap from Row 1- Row 3, repeating Row 3's directions twice.
This will be the shape of the head.
You will need to stuff this with something. I wound up a quick ball out of the chunky white yarn, but it is too heavy ( I will have to pry I out when I have time). You can stuff this with an old sock if you like or if you have stuffing from another project, by all means use it. The point though is to use something that is machine washable and won't explode into bits if it goes in the wash.
Attach the head while stuffed to the top of your project at the third row, SLIP STITCH, SC all the way around each stitch connecting the whole thing to the skull cap.
Step 3: PORG EYES
Switch to black yarn and pull from both ends of the skein. Row 1: SLIP STITCH, CH3, HDC6 in CH1, SC1 into CH3 to connect.
Row 2: CH2, HDC2 IN EVERY STITCH, SC 1 into CH2 to connec, CH 1 to tie off.
Repeat Row 1 & Row 2 for second eye.
Step 4: PORG EYELIDS
PORG SECONDARY EYE COLOR (EYELIDS)
Switch to tan yarn. Single strand only.
Row 1: SLIP STITCH, CH1, SC1 IN EVERY STITCH ALL THE WAY AROUND, SC 1 in CH1 to connect, CH1 to tie off.
Repeat this step for second eye.
Step 5: PORG HEAD EYE COLOR MARKINGS AND GREY HEAD
PORG GOLD AND TAN FACE COLOR AROUND EYE.
Switch to using both tan and gold.
Row 1: SLIP STITCH into the tan section of the eye, CH1, HDC3, DC2 INS, DC1, DC2 IN5S, CH2, TURN. (So far in this project we haven't had to "turn". When you run into a "turn" you are flipping the project so that you are crocheting from one end to the other. For example, I am right handed so when I crochet I work toward the right. In other words, the hook is in my right hand and I'm feeding the yarn with my left, so when I turn the project and add a stitch in "the other direction" the project is still being crocheted from right to left. If you are left handed the project would be fed to the left instead of the right each time.)
*The eye in my case was first going towards my right hand while I was crocheting, now that I have turned it the eye is closer to my left hand so that I can focus on crocheting the second row, and passing it back into my right hand as I go along.
Row 2: DC1 ISS, DC2, DC2 IN2S, DC4, HDC1 SC5, SLIP STITCH to tie off.
Repeat Row 1 & Row 2 but DO NOT SLIP STITCH OR TIE OFF. FIND A LOCATION OF ATTACHMENT FOR EACH EYE BETWEEN ROW 2 AND ROW 3 ON THE WHITE PORTION OF THE HEAD. Connect eyes one at a time by first stitching the tan and gold combination into the white section of the head. Push all the way in to grab a stitch and finish the HDC stitch on the surface. Continue this to create the bridge color or the Porg's nose. Dip in and HDC5 across the face, connect the other eye by HDC1 into white of head and finish the stitch within the eye color for second eye. SLIP STITCH to tie off.
SWITCH TO DOUBLE GREY.
Looking at the forehead, SLIP STITCH through GOLD and TAN 9TH HDC stitch before the GOLD and TAN bridge is created. This is above the corner to one of the eyes. You will only be crocheting through the gold and tan colors for now. You will need to be on that stitch because you will be DC stitching through that section and need the length of the DC there.
From your SLIP STITCH:
Row 1: CH1, DC6, count up on Gold Tan (GT) 2 stitches, SC1 into second stitch, SC2 UPWARDS OVER GT EYE COLOR STITCHES, TURN,
Row 2: CH1, HDC1, DC3, DC2 IN2S, SC1 into second stitch, SC2 UPWARDS OVER GT EYE COLOR STITCHES, TURN,
Row 3: CH1, HDC1, DC 7, SC1 into second stitch, SC2 UPWARDS OVER GT EYE COLOR STITCHES, TURN,
Row 4: CH1, HDC1, DC9, SC1 into second stitch, SC2 UPWARDS OVER GT EYE COLOR STITCHES, TURN,
Row 5: CH1, HDC1, DC11, DC2INS, DC2, SC1 into second stitch, SC2 UPWARDS OVER GT EYE COLOR STITCHES, TURN,
Row 6: CH1, HDC1, DC21, HDC1, SC1 into second stitch, SC2 UPWARDS OVER GT EYE COLOR STITCHES, TURN,
Row 7: (This will be hard on the hands as you will have to crochet into the white and finish the stitch on the upper level side by the hook. HDC ALL THE WAY ACROSS THE BOTTOM OF THE HEAD CONNECTING ALL OF THE GREY TO THE WHITE, SLIP STITCH to tie off.
Step 6: PORG BACK
Project should be upside down already. If right handed you will need the right eye (from the forward facing eye closest to your hand's eye. So in other words your right not the Porg's right when you look at it head on)
The back is going to cover a little more than half of the hat. Mine was designed to leave the temples open to the white and just behind them the grey from the fur was crocheted into the white, filling the back with the overlap.
Row 1: Crochet down underneath the lip of the head you just created. SLIP STITCH, CH1, HDC13 into the white skull cap, SC1 into white stitch for the row you're on, SC2 up into the next row you will be on next, TURN
Row 2: Crochet into Double Grey ONLY. CH1, HDC1, DC9, DC2 IN3S, DC1, DC2 IN2S, DC1, DC2 INS, DC1, SC1 into white stitch for the row you're on, SC2 up into the next row you will be on next, TURN
Row 3: CH1, DC2, DC2 INS, DC7, DC2 INS, DC9, DC2 INS, DC9, SC1 into white stitch for the row you're on, SC2 up into the next row you will be on next, TURN
Row 4: CH1, DC2, DC2 INS, DC33, SC1 into white stitch for the row you're on, SC2 up into the next row you will be on next, TURN
Row 5: CH1, DC40, SC1 into white stitch for the row you're on, SC2 up into the next row you will be on next, TURN
Row 6: CH1, DC41, SC1 into white stitch for the row you're on, SC2 up into the next row you will be on next, TURN
Row 7: CH1, DC42, SC1 into white stitch for the row you're on, SC2 up into the next row you will be on next, TURN
Row 8: CH1, DC43, SC1 into white stitch for the row you're on, SC2 up into the next row you will be on next, TURN
Row 9: Crochet into the rim of the skull cap the way that we did for the head of the Porg to close the grey back and the white skull cap together instead of having to sew that whole section. CH1, HDC into white to close the hat, HDC ALL THE WAY AROUND TO THE LAST GREY STITCH ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE PORG.
Step 7: PAUSE TO SEW IN YARN TAILS TO LIKE COLORS
Using a YARN NEEDLE, if you haven't already, sew in the yarn tails of the "tied off" colors. You should always stick with like colors so no color shows where it is not supposed to. Weave the color into the like color until you cant anymore. Pull remainder of yarn tail up off of your project and carefully snip the tail away.
Your hat will look like this once the yarn tail are cleaned up.
Step 8: PORG JOWLS
Using the white extra chunky yarn, Crochet directly into Row 4 of the skull cap, closest to the grey and gold/tan mix we just made, SLIP STITCH, DC INTO THE HAT AND AROUND THE FACE IN AN UPSIDE DOWN "U" SHAPE STAYING CONSISTENT WITH THE STITCHES MAKING SURE IT LOOKS LIKE AN UPSIDE DOWN "U" NOT A "V", SLIP STITCH, CH1 to tie off.
Change to black yarn.
Using YARN NEEDLE sew in nostrils in the jowls. Make sure they are centered on the face and on a slight diagonal.
Step 9: PORG WINGS
Crochet these separately and sew in at the end.
Select white, extra chunky yarn.
Row 1: CH13, TURN Row 2: Count in 2 CH, HDC1, DC2 ISS, DC11, TURN Row 3: CH2, DC11, HDC2 ISS, SC1 into last stitch, Slip Stitch to tie off.
Repeat for second wing.
Switch to double grey for top of wing.
Row 1: Slip Stitch into top corner of white (underside) wing, CH2, DC2 ISS, DC12, SC1 into white (tip of wing), TURN, Row 2: SC 2 AROUND CURVE OF TIP, HDC2 ISS, DC14, CH2, TURN, Row 3: CH1 DC14 into and out of the white to connect it together, SLIP STITCH to tie off.
Repeat for other wing.
Sew into proJect on either side of the Porg. I did only sew at the top where the shoulder would be so that if there was wind or something the Porg could be more "natural" in movement as a hat than in a permanent spot.
Step 10: BOTTOM INNER EDGE OPTIONAL
Bottom Inner Edge (Optional)
Finally the curve under the ear inside the hat. The hat is big as I mentioned before for my ponytail. To keep this on my head better I came in a bit in the back where the white section meets the grey within the inside of the project which gives the hat a legde almost that is pretty nice and holds well without the hat needing to be tighter. This section is optional. If you do add it, measure your head and your expectations before trying it, you may need a different stitch skip count.
For me I SLIP STITCHED at the inside corner where the grey is outside of the stitch, SC1, SKIP STITCH SC 2, SKIP STITCH, SC1, SKIP STITCH ETC ALL THE WAY TO THE OTHER GREY SECTION. That seemed to work well enough for me. If you want to try SC1 Skip 1 stitch all the way around, by all means.
I love everything about this hat. I hope you do too! If I get the opportunity to get more extra chunky white I'll post anothe Instructable with reference to each section.