In this instructable / video I am going to show you step-by-step, how I made this micro USB powered, beautiful, LED desk lamp with an integrated on/off switch.
You can make lamp like this at home, using a router, jigsaw, drill and vacuum cleaner. No need of an expensive workshop.
In this build I used only 20cm of 12V SMD5630 LED strip, but it illuminates room very good. Considering that it consumes very little power.
What I like the most about this lamp, that it has integrated micro USB converter from 5V to 12V and ON/OFF switch. It makes everything so simple. Just need to connect this lamp to any USB socket with a micro USB cable. And you don't need to plug it out if you want to turn off the lighting, which is really convenient.
Free templates: http://bit.ly/USB_DESKLAMP_Templates
Tools You'll Need:
- Router https://amzn.to/2DVXXZC
- Jigsaw https://amzn.to/2rg4uXx
- Drill: https://amzn.to/2U5QQmL
- Hot glue gun https://amzn.to/2PdCgpI
- Digital Multimeter https://amzn.to/2rf0EO3
- Clamps https://amzn.to/2PcKa2M
- Speed Square https://amzn.to/2Qat9vz
- Sandpapers 60, 120, 220 grit (local hardware store)
- Pliers https://amzn.to/2PecPo7
- Small utility knife https://amzn.to/2Q8pGxc
Materials You'll Need:
- Wood board/panel (local hardware store)
- 12V IP65 LED Strip https://amzn.to/2PecSjN
- ON/OFF Switch https://amzn.to/2PdO9My
- 5V to 12V micro USB converter https://amzn.to/2Q9SqG7
- Aluminum heatsink https://amzn.to/2E527is
- Wires https://amzn.to/2Q6Kk0P
- Acrylic holder https://amzn.to/2sOiJUl
- Decorative self-adhesive film https://amzn.to/2AHj9PK
- Silicone feet https://amzn.to/2PbfWgs
- Double side tape https://amzn.to/2MjNHvY
- Rubbing alcohol https://amzn.to/2MgiR7q
- Wood glue: https://amzn.to/2E8Baus
- 30-minute epoxy https://amzn.to/2Q8N3GU
- White Ash color varnish https://amzn.to/2E6L1kh
- Redwood color varnish https://amzn.to/2HBFjnW
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Step 1: Preview
Few preview shots of the lamp at evening and night.
Step 2: Starting
I glued templates ( http://bit.ly/USB_DESKLAMP_Templates ), cut paper where I will route and started routing spots for electronic components.
Step 3: Jigsaw Cutting
After I routed, I cut all pieces with a jigsaw. Some pieces needed to be cut at an angle.
Step 4: Rought Sanding
I glued two base parts together with a double side tape and rough sanded corners that I would get two parts of identical size.
Then I separated two parts and marked spots where I will round the corners.
Step 5: Rounding Edges
I hot glued work pieces (double side tape work very well too) and rounded corners. For the small items tray I used router guide where I could to get straight routing line.
Step 6: Drilling, Sanding, Hotgluing
I drilled the hole on the top base part for the LED wires and finished sanding all pieces with 120 and 220 grit sandpapers. And then I hot glued scrap wood blocks to the parts that I could hold them when applying wood finish.
Step 7: Applying Wood Finish
I applied white ash color varnish on two top parts, and on bottom part I applied redwood color finish. These two wood finishes looks very good together.
Step 8: Gluing Two Parts
When the wood parts were dry, I sanded spot on the top base part, where I'll be placing top angled part. Added wood glue, pressed down and fasten drying process with a hair dryer.
Step 9: Prepairing Parts for Soldering
I cut 2 x 10cm (6mm thickness) of the heatsink and glued two 10cm LED strips on it. On this build I used step up power converter (links in first page). I fully charged power bank, connected it to the converter and adjusted output voltage to 12V.
Step 10: Soldering
I soldered two short wires on each LED strip. On the button I soldered longer wires as those will go though all the base. As I routed ~1mm thinner slot than the heatsink, so I just needed to squeeze it in. And the gap on top is for hot air to escape, as SMD5630 LED strips runs quite hot when powered with 12V.
Step 11: More Soldering
I soldered one wire from the switch to the converter's negative connection.
I twisted wires from the LEDs and soldered positive wire from the LEDs to the positive connection on the converter.
Then soldered negative wires from the LEDs to the another wire from the switch.
Finally, I added electrical tape on previously soldered wires.
Step 12: Final Tests
I tested if everything works properly and then placed and hot glued electronic components in the routed spots.
After hot gluing, I tested again for the final time, just to make sure everything still works.
Step 13: Gluing Together
I added small drops of wood glue around two base parts and clamped them.
Step 14: The Front Face of the Lamp
To prevent blinding from those bright LEDs, I decided to use acrylic holder combined with decorative film. I cut acrylic with a jigsaw using blade for metal.
Those acrylic holder usually use shops to display item's price and features. From the same acrylic I cut two pieces which will hold the front face part, which I cut before.
Step 15: Bending Holders for the Front Face
I used blowtorch on lowest power and heated acrylic. Then I bend those two pieces as close as possible to 90 degree angle. I used acrylic for holder because they are transparent and won't cast any shadows.
Step 16: Preparing for Epoxy
I marked where I'll glue the holders and sanded them and the marked spots. I cleaned everything with rubbing alcohol.
Step 17: Gluing Holders
I mixed 30-minute epoxy and glued holders to the front face.
Step 18: Adding Decorative Film
I cut 16 x 15cm of decorative self-adhesive film and cleaned the front face with rubbing alcohol.
Then, I slowly step by step glued the film and trimmed it.
Step 19: Final Steps
Finally, I glued small feet to the bottom of the base and again with 30-minute epoxy, glued the front face to the base.
Step 20: The END
And that's it - the build is finished!
I hope this instructable / video was useful and informative.
If you liked it, you can support me by liking this Instructable / YouTube video and subscribing for more future content. That means a lot! Feel free to leave any questions about this build. Thank you, for reading / watching! Till next time! :)
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