Introduction: DIY E-scooter From Howerborad Motor
This instructable is show case how to create e-scooter from hoverboard motor and ordinary kick scooter.
I don’t have total step by step build. It is more like a guide how to reuse old parts. Total cost of build depends of parts you already have. I had an old hoverboard kids don’t use any more. And also an old kick scoter, some excello made. There are a lot of builds using original kick scooter frame but they all have problems arranging batteries inside frame. I had a lot of laptop 18650 batteries and decided to use them for build. 18650 batteries are bulky and you need a lot of free space inside frame to properly fit them. I decided to build frame for motor and use original folding part for front wheel. Frame is made from aluminum and NO welding necessary. Everything is fixed by bolts. Total mass is 9 KG. Battery is 37,8 V (4p9s connection). Top speed is 15 Km/h and range is about 20 Km for 80 Kg person.
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Step 1: Parts List
Step 2: Preparation of Howerboard Motor
Original motor has motor shaft on one side and fixing one shaft to frame is rather difficult.
It is better to have motor suspended on both side of the frame. In that way each side is caring half the load.
You can add shaft very easy on this motor. Disassemble the motor and drill center hole diameter 6,5mm and about 30mm deep. Then use 8mm tap and create threads for bolt. It is not necessary to be dead center on shaft. This shaft is not spinning. It is fixed to the frame. Just carrying the load for that side.
Step 3: Frame Build
Take one 120cm long L profile 50x50x5mm . Cut it in half then then connect them in the middle to get U shape. Cut out one side in the shape of motor. On one side drill 8mm hole and on the other cut out frame for motor shaft. The hole and cut out must be in level with the frame and the motor shafts. It is not that difficult to get the level. First create cut out on one side then put in the motor and mark the other side for the hole.
Step 4: Battery Build
Salvaging old laptop batteries it not that difficult. It is just time consuming. You need charger for individual cells to measure capacity and later match the good cells together. LiitoKala Li500 is good charger and not that expensive. First take apart every laptop battery and take out cells. Measure voltage of every cell. Cells that have 0v - 1,5v dispose them. They are bad. Or have very low capacity, you don’t need them and they are not worth the time. Cells that have above 1,5v - 2v they can go to Lii500 charger. Use “normal test”. Discharge rate 1000mA. Each cell is charged full, then discharged by 1A current, then charged full again. At the end use water proof pen and write down how many mAh and mR each cell has. One cell normal test takes about 6-10 hours to complete. When you are finished leave all the cells resting on the self for 1 month. After that measure all the cells again. Cells that have voltage below 4v after 1 month are not suitable for e-bike build. They have some sort of chemical problem and have high rate of self-discharge. You can use them for something else but not for e-bike battery. Ratio of good cells vs bad cells for e-bike is small. In the beginning there was about 250 cells. In the end I could potentially use 50-60 cells for e-bike or e-scooter. Motor controller operates from 36v to 48v. Decided to create one 37,6v battery. Find cells that have close mAh and mR, connect them in parallel. I used 4 x batteries in parallel. Then connect 3 packs of them in series to get 12,6 v . Then finally connect 3x 12,6 to get 37,7 battery pack. Use some duct tape to fix them in shape. Also it is good idea to connect balance wires so you can monitor individual cell banks.
Step 5: Connect Everything
Electrical connection. Match wires by color.
There are more wires on the controller than you need because it is universal controller.
Ignore extra wires on the controller.
Second and third pic:
Main power switch is ordinary 220V 16A electric water heater switch.
You can use any 16A switch. Led diode is there just for information if main switch is ON or OFF.
White bracket in front tire holds the frame by 8mm pass through bolt.
There is another bracket in front battery with the same pass through bolt.
Below the bolt on the left is 5x2.1 charger connection.
Wheel shaft is “pressed” on frame with two 8 mm bolts
Front folding wheel is bolted on with four 6mm bolts directly on the U shape frame.
Two bolts are on left side of the frame and 2 on the right. This 4 bolts and 2 brackets firmly holds the U shape of the frame. No need to weld the frame at all.
Fifth and final pic:
Made under frame cover from thin galvanized 0.8 mm sheet. Cover is bolted with 4 bolts into the cross white bracket. You can see the led diode on the last picture
Step 6: DIY Li Ion Charger
I will create another instructable just for charger.
It is universal charger from 1v to 60v battery pack.
Very easy to build. Simple to configure for wide range of voltage