DIY Filament Extruder

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Intro: DIY Filament Extruder

We all know that filament is the most important part of 3d printing... And we also know that these are neither cheap nor easily accessible... So I decided to make my own homemade filament extruder. After some research on internet, I decided to use this simple design which is the core of many commercial filastruders. I prepared a simple CAD model for you to conceptualize the design easily. All these parts are easily found at every DIYer's parts bin. Only serious design I made is the steel barrel body which is made by one of my friends who has a lathe. As can be understood, plastic pellets (or small cut plastic) is loaded from the upper cone and the screw carries them to the front where they are being melt and forced out of a brass nozzle (a natural gas or propane nozzle mainly) to form a filament. According to my calculations system can be driven with a powerful dc gearmotor or a big stepper like the one in the pic (nema23). Even a household drill can drive the system for few hrs... I designed the system to make 1.75mm filament (which is accordance with myRepRap 3D printer) and found nozzles that can do the job. the radius of output filament can be monitored by a sensor for accuracy but I do not think I will need that as long as the shaft is driven at constant speed... As for the heating control, I decided to use the same ceramic 12v heaters and 100k thermistors used in reprap printer extruders (actually there will be more than one on the front end around nozzle). There are simpler and cheaper solutions for heat control, such as constant temp PTC thermostats but as the name implies these are made to keep the heating at a predefined constant temp. Actually I want to make tests for different types of plastics ( including waste plastics such as PE bottles) that is why I decided to have Arduino controlled heater&thermistor combination under PID control because various plastics will need different melting temps...

Parts needed.

- Metal body in which the screw mechanism will work..

- 12mm diameter wood screw...

- 2x cartridge heaters...

- 100K thermistor...

- Gearmotor (I am using scrap hand drill but windshield motor will do better)...

- Arduino of any kind...

- IRLZ44 Mosfet (any powerful logic mosfet will do the job)

- 10K pot...

- 16x2 LCD (optional to monitor heating values)

- some construction skills and some coding...

Don't forget to rate!
I entered this post into the 3D Printer contest, so if you think its awesome, or it helps you , vote for it! :)

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81 Discussions

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HeidiE27

Question 10 days ago

Hello, would you mind leaving the instructions?

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ZilongW

2 years ago

hi,Can you share these"#include <PID_v1.h> #include <math.h>"library files?I can't find it on the Internet.thanks :)

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dhepgulerZilongW

Reply 2 years ago

Hi, math.h is a standard c library... I am sure your Arduino IDE has it...PID library I used is available on Arduino site .. how couldn't you find it?...
link: http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/PIDLibrary

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SaberS7dhepguler

Reply 4 weeks ago

Am asking about the completed arduino code ,please !!!

Thanks alot

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Procot

2 years ago

I cant download the instructions, someone has it please?? :c
Thanks a lot

8 replies
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SamuelG16Procot

Reply 2 years ago

you mean the page pdf or the arduino code?

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SaberS7SamuelG16

Reply 4 weeks ago

Am asking about the completed arduino code ,please !!!

Thanks alot

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SamuelG16Procot

Reply 2 years ago

you need a prem-membership to do that.

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SamuelG16Procot

Reply 2 years ago

all that you realy need is the scematic and cide here.

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ProcotSamuelG16

Reply 2 years ago

sorry man, i did not undestand you.
Thanks for your messages!

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SaberS7Procot

Reply 4 weeks ago

Am asking about the completed arduino code ,please !!!

Thanks alot

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SaberS7

4 weeks ago

Amazing work and thanks alot

Am asking about the completed arduino code ,please !!!

Thanks alot

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filou63430

7 weeks ago

hello or is connect resistance thank you in advance

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ahooper

11 months ago

I seem to be having an issue with the code, not exactly sure what it is but the temperature seems to be really unstable. I checked the thermistor etc and they are all good. Lower temperatures there seem to be no issues however 100 deg C + I get huge spikes in the temperature, where the sensor is reporting correctly but for instance if the analogread returns 1012 I can get a a temperature reported of 230 to 260 odd degrees.

In addition if I have run the temperature at 240 degrees I get spikes reporting of 300 degrees reported. then if i turn the temperature back down to say 40 degrees every 10 to 20 cycles the pin controlling the heater triggers resulting in the head not cooling back down.

Any ideas?

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slenderguy79

2 years ago

Another question is LCD wiring. According to a schematics, you use just 4 wires to connect LCD. I have JHD 162A 16x2 LCD and it usually requires much more wires to connect.

3 replies
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slenderguy79dhepguler

Reply 2 years ago

Already got it but will do without I2C. Already done PID controller, but one serious issue left. Used all the items in your list, but heater doesn't heat much. When I connect it to PSU 12v directly, it heats perfect, just like in 3D printer hotend. But when connecting by your diagram via IRLZ44 mosfet and 10k pot, it's temperature is less than 100 degreas, since I can touch it for a few seconds. Any suggestions?

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dhepgulerslenderguy79

Reply 2 years ago

Strange.... I did not have that issue... are you sure you are using 2 heater cartridges?... mine works flawlessly... I am also using 12v PSU... it easily reaches 200 degrees in less than 5 min and later I checked up to 280 degrees...

My cartridges are burried in front of the body 2,5cm inside...