DIY Hakko T12 Compatible Soldering Station

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Introduction: DIY Hakko T12 Compatible Soldering Station

About: Electronics enthusiast, vlogger on youtube.

In this project I am building a DIY soldering iron kit, in this case a Hakko T12 compatible soldering station. If you are considering buying all the parts shown here, the total cost will be around $42 but you might get a lower cost if you already have some of the parts, either way it's a good value for the performance of the final product.

Step 1: Watch the Build Video!

The video describes the entire build so I recommend watching the video first to get an overview of the project. Then you can come back and read the following steps for more detailed explanation.

Step 2: Order the Required Parts

Depending on your location it might take a while to have these parts delivered to you so I recommend you order these ahead of time. Here you can find a list with links to all the parts I used in the project.

The kit includes a T12-K soldering tip but since these tips are inexpensive I suggest you get yourself a couple of other tips as well. When soldering it's nice to have a selection of tips to choose from.

You will be needing some brass standoffs and M3 screws/nuts for mounting the power supply to the enclosure so make sure you have those, otherwise you will need to order them. The kit does come with small pieces of heatshrink but in my case those were not enough, I had to use extra.

Step 3: Prepare the Enclosure

Because the power supply didn't had the right dimensions to fit on the lateral mounting rails of the enclosure I had to figure out a different mounting method. I decided to drill four 3mm mounting holes for the power supply, if you are using the same kit/enclosure as I did here I have attached to this step a PDF file containing the drill template on the first page.

The power supply will sit on four M3 6mm brass standoffs that will be installed later. The fifth hole is for connecting the earth connection to the enclosure. This is an important safety feature which we'll take a closer look at later in the wiring step.

To insulate the electronics from the aluminium enclosure I used some thick paper which was cut such as to fit over the mounting holes. It is recommended to use a fire retardant material for this job.

Step 4: Wiring and Assembly

I started the wiring by working on the back panel. First I created an earth connection wire which has a crimped spade connector on one end. The spade connector will be connected with a shake proof washer and nut to the fifth earth hole that I drilled earlier. I also scraped some of the paint from the enclosure to ensure good electrical connection. The other end of the yellow wire will be soldered the IEC mains socket earth pin.

This is an important safety feature, do not skip this step. Since this is a split enclosure design with separate panels, you could also connect separate earth wires to the top and bottom parts of the enclosure or even the front panel. However I did not do this because I checked with a multimeter and there was a good connection just through the enclosure panels touching each other.

The live wire was connected through the switch as this is the usual practice in this type of equipment. The resulting pair of wires white and blue, were connected to the power supply AC input.

I continued with wiring the front panel as well as the handle. For ESD safety the soldering iron tip should be earth connected as well. The kit does have a ground connection from the handle up to the front panel control PCB but it's not actually connected further to any ground point. To fix that I added another yellow wire from the earth pin on the connector to one of the mounting clips on the potentiometer because that is directly connected to the enclosure and will give me a ground connection.

For instruction on how to wire the handle with the provided multi way cable please check the PDF file attached in the previous step because on page 2 it includes a color code wiring diagram.

Step 5: Testing & Final Thoughts

Now I’ll give you my final thoughts on this soldering station kit. It was pretty easy and fun to assemble, and there were no missing parts. The heating time or performance, don’t know how to call it, is very good, around 16 seconds to get from cold to 280° C. When compared to my old analog Gordak 936 station this is a massive improvement because that station takes 53s to get to 280° C

The temperature regulation and temperature measurement accuracy are not excellent but it might improve over time as those hakko T12 tips need a couple of hours of burn-in time until they get stable.

If you are interested in the thermometer I used for testing the soldering iron temperature it is a Hakko FG100 clone.

You should checkout my Youtube channel for more awesome projects: Voltlog Youtube Channel.

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10 Discussions

0
user
BelenH4

Question 4 months ago

Dear

Thank you so much for such a valuable channel I'm a follower. I bough this station after watching your video and I think I followed each step correctly. The power supply is right I did the grounding and all and it shows at the pannel 500 when I turn on the station. But when I plug in the iron it still shows 500. Do you happen to know what might be wrong? Finally I think the vibration module has a position and you did not clarify that at the video can you be more specific about it? Maybe that might be my problem? Please let me know

Thanks

2 more answers

I don't think the position switch is your problem. Re-check your wiring, unfortunately I don't know what error 500 means.

Dear! It is such a pleasure to receive an answer form you! even with this old instructable.

I have checked the wiring but I'm not 100% sure there is a problem with the control board and I do not have anyone else to ask if its not much bother

Can you please tell me if nothing is connected at the panel with a multi meter can you let me know if there is continuity between the ground and the blue cable hole at the aviation plug holes?

Thanks!

First I'd like to say Thank you and great job on the write up! I am using it to build my soldering iron. So I was hoping you could help me and give me the approximate awg of the wires that you used in your kit?
Your probably wondering why I am asking this? So I am upgrading from the basic board that comes with the soldering station kit from your link, to the T12 OLED Temperature control board. Since I'm not buying the full kit but instead piecing things together I dont get any of the board wires.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks JEramy

0
user
janske

6 months ago

I have buy this Geekcreit 4A to 6A switching power board......

afther i connect the AC 230 volt it blow out the main fuse 3 Amp on this board, also blow out the main kill switch
Is there any isolation ?? between ac/dc
Think im waste some money to buy this module.
afther i use an alternate powersupply no problems

0
user
Vesku

11 months ago

I was looking to buy a TS100 and power source for it, found your video on Youtube and decided to build this one instead. This is clear step up from my old adjustable temperature iron. Thanks for the instructable and video

I've totally rebuild my old analog Hakko station which fell and crashed on the floor. It only cost the enclosure. These stations were quite expensive, at that time, compared to today's digital ones but I can see on your pictures that the thermal probe is still the same, 30 years later !

1 reply

yup the thermometer design from Hakko stayed pretty much the same and you can find clones like mine for very little on ebay,

0
user
u20417

1 year ago

I am new to micro electronics and soldering. I found this to be an excellent instructable and all of your video and written instructions to be very easy to follow and understand. So thank you very much from a newbie!

1 reply

thank you for following me.