This kiddies desk or storage table and chairs is actually quite simple to make and looks stunning once painted with Rust-Oleum in shades of blue. The desk lid lifts up and offers a nice storage space for toys or craft and painting supplies. - See more at: http://www.home-dzine.co.za/diy/diy-kids-table.htm#sthash.DmzEQfZY.dpuf
1 X 16mm mdf 250 x 500mm - chair back
1 x 16mm mdf 218 x 250mm - chair front
2 x 16mm mdf 250 x 250mm - chair top/bottom
2 x 16mm mdf 50 x 250mm - chair supports
1 x 16mm mdf 400 x 600mm - table top
1 x 16mm mdf 300 x 600mm - table base
2 x 16mm mdf 284 x 600mm - table front/back
2 x 16mm mdf 284 x 268mm - table sides
3,5 x 30mm wood screws
16mm wood screws
120-, 240-grit sanding pads
Rust-Oleum 2X in two colours
Drill/Driver plus assorted bits
Tape measure and pencil
Optional: Corner clamps
At the front of the top and bottom sections pre-drill two 2mm pilot holes and countersink.
Drill the holes 30mm from each edge.
On the top and bottom of the front sections measure in 30mm from the edges and drill pilot holes.
If you are working on your own corner clamps come in handy for holding the sections together.
Place the front panel between the top and bottom and drive screws through the pre-drilled holes.
Make sure the screw head is below the surface, as you will fill this with wood filler later on to conceal.
On the back section measure and make a line at 16mm, 235mm and 250mm. Use these guides to pre-drill 2mm pilot holes and countersink.
Place the back section on top of the assembled seat section and drive screws through the back. Again, make sure that the screw heads are below the surface for filling in later on.
Pre-drill 2mm pilots holes and countersink to attach the supports to the base of the chair.
Note: Don't apply too much pressure to prevent going through the board on the other side.
Assemble the desk
Pre-drill and countersink the front, back and sides in exactly the same way that you did for the chair.
Place the base accurately on top of the sides to pre-drill 2mm countersunk pilot holes before screwing the base to the sides.
Position each leg 20mm away from the edge and attach to the base with 16mm screws.
Attach all four legs in exactly the same way.
Fill screw holes with wood filler and let dry. Sand any uneven edges with 120-grit sandpaper and then go over this with 240-grit sandpaper for a smooth finish.
Note: Pay particular attention to the cut edges, as these quickly absorb any paint if not sanded smooth.
Apply an undercoat of slightly watered down acrylic paint to all surfaces. Let dry and then sand with 400-grit sandpaper. Wipe clean.
I used some old cans of Rust-Oleum American Accents spray paint that I still had, but Rust-Oleum now have their 2X range and an amazing selection of colour combinations.
If you prefer, you could also paint with acrylic paint, but I love the silky smooth and brush-stroke free finish that spray paint gives.
Once the paint is dry you can use 16mm screws to attach the paino hinge to the back of the desk lid and cabinet.
If the piano hinge doesn't have holes that go right to the edge, use a 3mm HSS bit to drill holes for secure fastening down of the piano hinge.
To prevent the lid of the desk from tipping back, it's safer to add a hinge or strap to secure the lid. I screwed a piece of nylon rope (tied with a knot a both ends) to the underside of the desk and inside of the desk.
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