This instructable is in reference to STL 19 - Manufacturing Technologies. In this instructable it shows how a manufacturing process goes from start to finish. This also displays the use and conservation of materials, planning in the process to avoid mistakes, and finally the satisfaction of a final product to be used in the real world.
This is a very subjective design. Depending on your preferences on loading different types of ammunition, simply take those measurements into account on the slot. If you want to load more ammunition at once, make the track longer. And if you want to have different sized magazines simply change the rod placement and the dock area. The magpacker with the measurements I used are based around 5.56 NATO rounds.
- 3/8" Plywood (Depending on Size of Packer)
- Drywall Screws 2"
- Metal Rod
- Wood Glue
- Scrap 2x4
Note: I am using a PMAG Gen III for this build. It should work with most 5.56 magazines.
Step 1: Preparing the Materials
1) The design is in 4 layers. (3 are 1x12, the other is a 3/8" piece of plywood)
Dimension: Length - 26" Width - 8-1/4"
Spacer Layer (3/8" Plywood), Bullet Track Layer, Top Layer
Dimension: Length - 16-1/4" Width - 8-1/4"
Note: The Bullet Track Layer should have a thickness of 2/5" (Width of the Bullet) 2)
Have a 7" 3/4x1" piece of wood for the dock.
Step 2: Cutting the Hole and Channel
1) Draw a circle at roughly 6" in the center of the Top and Bullet Track layer, leaving 1" on all sides. (My personal hole had a slight slope going toward the center)
2) Draw a 1-1/4" channel going down the rest of the board, centered, on the top layer.
3) Draw a 2-1/4" channel (offset 1/4" either direction of the center) on the bullet track layer.
Note: The offset of this is for the bullet spacing and will work just as fine with the entire thing centered.
4) Use a ban saw to cut out this design and sand both layers so they are flush when stacked.
Step 3: Assembly
1) Take all four layers and stack in order as follows bottom to top. Base Layer, Spacer Layer, Bullet Track Layer, Top Layer.
Note: The Spacer Layer allows the bullets to clear the lip of the magazine.
2) Glue and screw using the 2" Drywall Screws (Pre-Drill)
Dimensions: The screws going the length are place 4" apart and 1/2" off the edge. Copy this on both sides.
The screws going the width are placed 2" in from the sides and 3/4" from the back edge.
Step 4: Magazine Holder
Take the 3/4x1" piece of wood now.
1) Cut the wood into a 2-1/2" piece, and 2 1-1/4" pieces.
2) Take 1 of the 1-1/4" pieces and cut a notch into the top to match the size of the magazine. My notch ended up 1/8" deep and about a 1/2" wide.
3) Place either side of the two smaller pieces around the magazine in the proper position on the channel. Ensure that the bullets would feed properly in the position before continuing to the next step.
4) Pre-drill holes and glue and screw the pieces into the base piece at a diagonal angle (Note: To prevent the wood from splitting, use a bigger bit for the top, and a smaller bit for the shaft of the screw.)
5) Take the top piece and cut it flush between magazine and the top of the Magpacker. Then attach the piece to bridge the two outer pieces as displayed in the pictures. The thickness of my bridge was 1/4". Use a brad gun and glue to attach solidly.
IMPORTANT: You will need to sand the edges of the slot where the magazine fits to allow the stack to enter. Just make it so that two bullets can slide to stack on each other. I also ran into the problem of having the magazine too far forward so the bullets were catching on the back of the magazine. Versatility is key to making it work. Do what you have to in tweaking the design to ensure that you are able to utilize this Magpacker.
Step 5: Runner and Rod
1) Cut a metal dowel rod to any length. There is no specified dimension or thickness, really just anything you have. My personal length and thickness that works well is 5-1/2".
2) Place magazine into doc and mark out a spot at the right side edge (this is to hold the magazine in place). Drill a hole to fit whatever rod is used snugly.
3) Cut a piece of scrap wood to the width of 1-1/4" to use as the runner.
4) Sand to an ergonomic feel.
Step 6: Finish/ Final Product and Demonstration
Whatever color you would like, go through with the grain of the wood and finish the Magpacker. Allow roughly 3 hours to dry once completed.
Once product is done, all your speed loading needs have been solved.
If you have any additional comments let me know in the comments. Always looking for improvement.