DIY Portable Bike Repair Stand

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Intro: DIY Portable Bike Repair Stand

Intro.
I've been using my ceiling mounted bike lift to hold my bike when doing minor repairs or adjustments. I just lower the bike close to ground, it kinda works, but it's not portable and it's a little wobbly and not stable when you are cranking the wheels. After reading several post from a bike forum on how to built your own bike stand, I decided to make my own. I wanted it to be portable and able to adjust the angle of the clamp to accommodate different bike geometry and able to tilt the bike at a certain angle.

To make it portable, I decided to use a PA tripod speaker stand as a base. I found a good deal from Craiglist. New ones from Amazon will cost you around $20 to over hundred dollars for the fancy ones. My goal is to keep it all under $50....and Craiglist is a life saver. The tripod is the key part for this built; if your getting one make sure that the tripod top tube can accommodate a 1" diameter pipe. Also, the pipe wall thickness is crucial for the design to work, the 3/4" diameter pipe should be able to fit inside the 1" diameter pipe (if you look at the pictures below you'll see what I mean). I got black pipes from Home Depot and it is a perfect fit.

Materials and Tools you need:
PA tripod speaker stand
3/4" Pony clamp
2= 1" diameter , 6" long black pipe. (threaded each end)
1= 3/4" diameter, 21 inch long black pipe (threaded on one end)
1=1" diameter Galvanized Tee fitting
Red permanent loctite
34.9 mm QR seatpost clamp
Paint (optional)
2x4 block of wood, 12 inches long
Old mouse pad with rubber padding
Contact Cement

Tools you need:
Chop saw or hacksaw
Drill with drill bits
Pipe wrench and a table mounted vise comes handy
Rivet setter/revits or metal screws.

Pictured below is the finished bike repair stand:

Step 1:

1. Using a pipe wrench, thread one of the 1"diameter pipe to the 1" Galvanized Tee as pictured below, use red loctite to permanently secure it.

Step 2:

2. Using a chop saw or a hacksaw, saw-off the just threaded 1" pipe to make it flush with the Tee fitting (pictured below). Save the extra pipe, you'll need this later.

Step 3:

3. Use the pipe you saved from previous step to make the "tailpiece" (pictured below). This will be used to hold the pony clamp 3/4" pipe in place. Make 3 horizontal cuts along the 1" pipe shaft using a chop saw (these would be hard to replicate using a hacksaw). If you are stuck with a hacksaw, make 4 cuts instead (+ pattern) . Now, drill a small hole at the end of each cut to give it more flexibility.

Step 4:

4. Thread the above piece to the opposite end of the 1" Tee, use red loctite to permanently secure it.

Step 5:

5. Using two= 2"x4" wood blocks (each measures 6 inches long). Drill-through a clearance hole on the wood blocks to allow them to pass along the 3/4" pipe. I used a 1" bore for that. I then clamp the two 2"x4" sections together and bored through vertically to create the concave channels in each half of the wood block clamp pads.

Step 6:

6. I threaded another 1" diameter pipe about 6 inches long to the bottom of the 1" Galvanized Tee. I painted it black for aesthetic, then used 3 rivets to secure the clamp head assembly to the tripod (pictured below).

Step 7:

7. Now for the wood block clamp pads, I bolted it to the pony clamp and painted it blue (counter sink the head of the bolts). Once the paint dried, I glued (using contact cement) an old rubber mouse pad into the concave sections to act as a rubber padding.

Step 8:

8. Attach the 3/4" Pony Clamp to the 3/4" x 21" pipe.

Step 9:

9. Slide the Pony clamp 3/4" pipe to the Tee-piece, then use a 34.9mm QR seat post clamp to adjust the angle for clamping. Instead of QR seatpost clamp, I opted for a salvaged clamp from a razor kick scooter and a hand knob i was saving from an old office chair. I just replaced the original bolt to a smaller one to accommodate the clamp threads.

A small wing nut at the end of the 3/4" pipe is used for safety, this prevents the pony clamp assembly from accidentally sliding out.


 

Step 10: (Optional)

10. (Optional) I painted the tripod legs blue...now it can be mistaken for a Park Tool Stand :).



Step 11: Pitures of Bike Stand in Action:

Here it is in action. Even with the tripod legs in mid-extended position, it is very stable and not tippy at all.

Thank you all for viewing.  Peace.

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28 Discussions

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jinstructableguy

10 months ago

I just finished making this bad boy and I wanted to say thank you for putting your project out there.

To avoid the common: my pipes won't fit inside each other issue, I used a 1" OD aluminum rod cut to 24" length, and put NPT 3/4" threads on one end. This rod slides nicely inside the 1" pipe and pipe tee. The NPT 3/4" threads are for the pony clamp.

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neodymium

4 years ago on Introduction

For anyone who is wondering, the pony clamp he is using is from harbor freight. It comes with the holes for mounting the wood pre-drilled.

3 replies
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GlenK3neodymium

Reply 1 year ago

Can you supply a model number? I am having a hard time finding it.

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GlenK3

1 year ago

Also, I do not see how it is able to rotate the angle.

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GlenK3

1 year ago

Can you tell me how much weight this will support?

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meshkini522

2 years ago

Hi everybody!

I just got the idea of this project and decided to make it; however I couldn't find the "pony clamp" in my local shops, there is also no route to get things online from "amazon" & "e-bay" in my country because of some money transfer sanctions, so I decided to design a new clamp out of pipes and a tee (I made a tee as a clamp by cutting it and adding lockings to, and use a 70cm~28" pipe as holder).

I mounted the whole idea altogether, but it seems not to have balance and the thing is collapsing to the bike side; I don't want to drill and add weight(s) to the other side of the holding pipe to get balanced, as I may demount e.g. wheel, crank or other parts of the bike during repair time that way I have to relocate the lever.

what would you recommend at this situation?

P.S. I also tried to modify the tripod via changing its' pods length, but it seems not to work too.

regards,

M Meshkini

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JDP3290

3 years ago

how does the 3/4 fit in the 1" x6". I've got all the same parts, was a "bore the 1 pipe" step left out?

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MRFACES

4 years ago on Introduction

this seemed like a great design, until I realized the 3/4 pipe does not fit inside the 1inch. I have spent several hours fiddling with this to no avail. I now have some spare plumbing parts and a speaker stand. A heads up on that little detail would j\have been nice.

1 reply
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ZinkedMRFACES

Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

page 2 i believe it shows a 1" pipe cut off inside the tee. The inner diameter of the pipe is 3/4. (for future readers)

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cachu777

5 years ago on Step 8

The pony clamp to the left. how to you prevent it from sliding through the 3/3 pipe. I had one before and it would yous slide and I was never able to tighten it up.

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ptacnik

5 years ago on Step 7

make sure you remove the fabric from the mouse pad, if it has fabric!!

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triziggy

5 years ago on Step 10

the pony clamp is what's used to hold the bike and you have the scooter clamp help with adjusting the clamp angle. but you have them installed on opposite ends of the pipe. how do you use the scooter clamp to help with the clamp angle?

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ListenLoudlyhalfmumi

Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

Hey, I'm wondering if you completed this project? I'm confused about fitting the 3/4" x 21" long piece inside the 1" Tee - I don't think the 3/4" pipe fits inside 1" pipe because they're essentially the same size. Did this work for you?

Thanks!

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elic

6 years ago on Introduction

Very good idea. I thought to use a Locking Plier to hold the bike, after welding to it two halfs of cutting 1" pipe.

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3.1415

6 years ago on Introduction

Best homemade bikestand I've seen yet! It's even better than my storebought one.

This is what I used. Excellent stand.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E0PPG0/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M2C_ST1_3p_dp_1