DIY Pull Out Trash Cabinet




Introduction: DIY Pull Out Trash Cabinet

About: I run where we focus on Woodworking and DIY Projects, Plans and Tools. Come check us out and let us inspire you to build something awesome!

In this Instructable I'll show you how to make a DIY Pull Out Trash Cabinet to hide those trash and recylcing bins while keeping them easily accessible.

If you want to see a little more detail on the build you can head over to my DIY Pull Out Trash Can post on my site.

And if you like the build video please subscribe to my YouTube channel!

Step 1: Get Your Materials and Tools

Here is what you'll need for the build. The links below are affiliate links and help support my channel and let me build more projects.

Tools Used


Step 2: Make and Install the Cleats for the Drawer Slides

To mount the slides I made L-shaped cleats. I ripped a 1x6 into 2 pieces for the uprights and then used a plywood offcut for the base. All pieces were 22" long. This was scrap material I had, but you could use 1x4's for this too.

I assembled the L-shaped cleats with pocket screws and glue then drilled 1/4" mounting holes in each one. I used a framing square to align the cleat perpendicular to the front edge and inline with the face frame.

I predrilled holes and attached the cleat with pocket screws. The oversized holes in the cleats leave a little room for adjustments if needed.I repeated the same process on the other side of the cabinet.

Step 3: Build the Drawer Box

For the drawer boxes I cut four 5-1/2" strips of 3/4" plywood from a 24"x24" piece. I cut the sides to 22" long and the front and the back to just over 15-1/2". Watch the YouTube video for a tip on how to get the drawer box the exact right width to fit between the slides with no hard measurements.

Next I cut 1/4" grooves on the inside bottom of all the parts except for the back panel which I cut to the width of the other panels above the groove.

I drilled pocket holes in the front and back and assembled the drawers with pocket hole screws. I cut a bottom panel to fit the drawer then finished all the parts with a water based poly before installing the bottom and screwing it in place to the drawer back.

Step 4: Build the Face Face and Drawer Box Supports

I installed the trash bins and measured for a face frame to hold the bins in place. I cut the parts to size from maple hardwood, 22" x 2.5" for the sides and fit the dividers as needed based on my trash cans.

I assembled the face frame with pocket screws and then glue and clamped it to the drawer.

To attach cabinet door I made some vertical supports also out of maple. I cut the supports to 15" x 2.5" then countersunk and screwed them to the front of the cabinet. I also cut a filler strip to go between the uprights.

Step 5: Preparing the Cabinet Door

I needed to relocate the door pull on the cabinet door so I removed the hinges and door pull from the cabinet. Then I drilled a larger 3/8" hole where the pull mounting holes were.

I used a 3/8" plug cutter to cut some plugs from a cherry board and then installed the plugs in the holes I drilled out.

I pared the plugs flush with a chisel then sanded and applied finish.

Step 6: Installing the Trash Bin

I installed the 22" drawer slides on the cleat, using a 3/4" scrap to raise them off the bottom. Then I put the trash bin in the opening with 1/4" spacer between the bin and the bottom and pulled out the slides and started attaching them to the drawer.

I worked my way down one side then the other. I pulled out the drawer and added screws to the back of the slides to finish it off.

Step 7: Mount the Cabinet Door and Relocate Drawer Pull

To mount the drawer I drilled 2 mounting holes on each upright. I clamped the door in place and leveled it with the drawer above it and the door to the right of it.

When it was straight I installed the door with panhead screws from the back.

The last piece was to put the drawer pull on the top for easy access. I centered the pull on the top rail, drilled the holes then installed the pull.

I put the trash bins in place and I was done!

Thanks for reading! If you want to see a little more detail on the build you can head over to my DIY Pull Out Trash Can post on my site.

And if you like the build video please subscribe to my YouTube channel!



  • Metalworking Contest

    Metalworking Contest
  • Water Contest

    Water Contest
  • Fix It! Contest

    Fix It! Contest

13 Discussions

Excellent 'ible. Just an aside comment about making plugs to fill in holes when relocating pulls; drill the plugs from the backside of the door/drawer in an inconspicuous place. That way wood type is exact match. If you take care to align the grain its possible to make the holes virtually disappear.

1 reply

Two quick questions.

Why did you not glue the drawer bottom when you slide it in?

Why did you not screw the top maple face from the sides with your pocket screws jig?

Other than that, this is an excellent Instuctable with lots of great tips.


1 reply

"glue the drawer bottom"

As I recall, cabinet makers leave the bottoms relatively free to expand and contract within the slots/grooves/dados provided. they may tack a brad in the center or just a drop of glue to hold it in place and let it expand and contract without forcing the box apart in the process.

Using Blum Metabox drawer slides would simplify some of the work and possibly reduce the cost. Even better would be, as I've done in the past, and use the hardware stripped out of surplus filing cabinets, like those olive green antiques rusting away in many used office furniture dealers warehouses. I've bought 3 drawer ones for $25. Even the drawers themselves could be used here if the kitchen cabinet is the right width.

1 reply

"kitchen cabinet is the right width"

Depth would like be the issue with full-size filing cabinet hardware.

Full Extension slides are readily available form BB Stores like Lowes, HD, Menards, etc. and are designed for such an application as this.I've used FC Hardware to add a drawer before and they require MODIFICATIONS to fit about anywhere beside the cabinet they were designed and engineered for - re-inventing the wheel is not always worth the effort.


1 year ago

how about doing a project for several sliding drawers in the same space. my wife has tons of spices and pullout drawers would conserve space.

1 reply

He pretty much covered what needs to be done. Basically the pull outs need to be drawers - if you try flat shelves, things will fall off the rear or get stuck in the space on either side.

You'll want to measure the height of the opening, decide the height of the items to be stored on each shelf so you can calculate how many pull-outs the space will allow.

You will need to add spacers (if you have cabinets with Face Frames) to each side of the interior. These simply fit between the inside of the back and face frame and allow fastening the slides to the interior walls of the cabinet (they need to be glued in place as well as tacked with nails long enough to go through the spacer blocks and short enough so they do not go clean through the sides!)

Depending upon your application, you may want to fix the door to the lower drawer as he did here, then pull out the 'shelves' above as needed. If you do leave the cabinet door hinged on one side, be sure to check for clearance on the hinge side as you may need a thicker spacer (an narrower drawer/shelf) on the hinge side to clear the hinges. Measure twice - cut once!

For guidance, look to your Drawer cabinet (if you have one) as what you want to do is build the drawers inside a base cabinet - or better yet a Tall/Pantry cabinet.

If you have Frame-less European cabinets, the spacer is only required on the hinge side and can be accomplished using thick (nylon) washers - but the solid wood spacer glues to the cabinet (rough up the melamine surface where the glue goes) and brads or pin nails are best when shooting into the 'pressed wood'/composite material many of those Euro Cabinets are made of.

The drawer/shelves do not have to have deep/tall sides - but they should be tall enough to stop the things stored on them from sliding off the rear or sides.

I saw these on your IG and immediately started scheming where they'd go in my kitchen. My wife got a garbage can she liked, but the kids broke the top, so maybe this will please her!


1 year ago

Very well done Instructable, but I particularly like it because it illustrates just how easy sliding drawer features are to add to cabinetry as opposed to spending an egregious amount on a kit at a big box store.

1 reply

Nice project. I've been putting almost this exact same setup in the kitchen's I remodel for years. It's so much better than those metal kits you can buy. Take this in the spirit in which it's intended, I'm just sharing my experience. The only thing I've run into problems with is the weight over time. I've been called back to customers homes to replace the slides on multiple occasions because the mini bearings start to go out. I've started using slides rated for more weight and haven't been called back to one. It's no biggie because they have the same 1/2" offset from the box. Just a little stronger. Again, awesome project. Thanks for sharing.

1 reply

I considered going up from the 100lb rating to the 200lb rating, but the slides were twice as much (go figure). If they do fail then I'll make the upgrade like you said and it should be seamless. Thanks for the feedback!