DIY Routing Table




This Instructable describes a routing table I made at Techshop after taking the Laser Cutter SBU.

I wanted a project to try out my new laser cutting skills, and a router mounting plate for a router table seemed perfect. Techshop has a nice router table that members can use, but I have a lot a small projects in my garage, so my own table at home would come in handy.

In this instructable, I describe all the tools and materials you need to construct your own.

If you'd like to obtain the design files, they are located on GitHub at

For more information about TechShop go to

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Step 1: Routing Table Tools and Materials

To build the router table you will need the following tools:

* Router
* Router Speed Controller (optional)
* 3/4" Countersink Bit
* 1/2" Height Rabetting Router Bit
* 5/16" Drill Bit
* 3/4" Forstner Bit
* Jigsaw
* And of course, access to a Laser Cutter

You will also need the following materials:

* Acrylic Sheet (at least 1/4" thick and 8 1/2" x 11")
* Three or Four Router Mounting Bolts (The size depends on your router. My router required three 5/16-18 bolts.)
* 3/4" Plywood 24" x 24" (I used birch.)
* Eight 5/16 Carriage Bolts, Split Washer and Lock Nuts
* Tool Stand Kit
* Cable Ties

Step 2: Routing Face Plate Design

The design of the router face plate will vary based on your particular router, so please consider these instructions as guidelines and make the appropriate changes for your router.

You do not want to make the face plate too big or too small. It should be a little larger than the hole in the table, and the hole in the table should be just big enough for your router to slide in diagonally. My router needed about a 11 1/4" diagonal hole to fit through the table. The dimensions on the hole are 6 3/4" X 9 1/4".

Next, you will need to add a border around the hole. This forms the outer dimension of the face plate. My rabetting bit is 3/4" in diameter and contains a bearing that cuts a 3/8" edge. Therefore, the overall dimension of my face plate are 7 1/2" (6 3/8" + 3/8" + 3/8")  X 10" (9 1/4" + 3/8" + 3/8"). The corners of the face plate have a radius of 3/4".

In the center of the face place, put a 1 1/2" diameter hole for the router bit. Relative to this hole, determine the location of the router mounting holes.

Finally, I added a 1/4" hole for a installing an optional post that is used to help steady the work for some routing jobs.

After you calculated all these dimensions, you are ready to create a drawing of your face plate in CorelDraw. To get you started, I included my CorelDraw and PDF files with this instructable.

When you are finished with the drawing output the file to the laser cutter.

Step 3: Routing Face Plate Build

After the router face plate is cut. You will need to countersink the router mounting holes so the screws are flush with the surface. When countersinking acrylic, the drill speed should be less that 500 rpm to prevent the acrylic from melting.

Step 4: Routing Table Stand

Originally, I planned to design and build the stand to support the router tabletop, but I decided it was cheaper and faster to buy an Universal Table Stand from Harbor Freight. They come in a variety of sizes.

Follow the assembly instructions that come with the stand and bulid the table.

Step 5: Attach the Routing Tabletop to the Stand

After the stand is assembled, center the stand on the 3/4" plywood tabletop and mark the mounting holes.

Next, using the 3/4" Forstner bit, countersink the holes approximately 1/8".

Drill 5/16" holes for the carriage bolts.

Finally, mount the top to the stand.

Step 6: Cut the Router Face Plate Hole

Now that the top is mounted to the stand, draw the router face plate on the table surface.

Next, cut out the inner rectangle using a jigsaw.

And finally, use the rabetting bit and router to cut the edge to hold the face place. Adjust to depth of the cut, so the top of the face place is flush with the tabletop.

Step 7: Final Assembly

Attach the acrylic router face plate to the router and insert them into the tabletop. If your router has a trigger instead of an on/off switch, use a cable tie to hold the trigger closed.

I used a router speed controller as an on/off switch and speed control for the router. I mounted the controller to the underside of the tabletop using Velcro. I plugged the router into the speed controller, and used a few more cable ties to tidy up the cords.

NOTE: If you do not use a speed controller, use another method to turn on and off your router easily and quickly.

The router table is complete!

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31 Discussions


2 years ago

Hey so forgive my ignorance, but why does the plate have to be acrylic? I'm new in the world of routing, but is there any great benefit to that or could it be made just as well from an opaque material? Great idea, by the way.

1 reply

Reply 5 months ago

2 Years late, but for anyone from the future with the same question, you want the plate to be a low friction surface. In general, that means a plastic or a metal. As most DIY'rs dont have access to metal working tools, that means plastic. Lexan and Acrylic are the two plastics of choice for durable transparent plastics (which lets you monitor the router assembly. Lexan is more impact resistant, acrylic is more scratch resistant. For this project, however, acrylic MUST be used, as lexan in not safe to laser out. If you are machining out with a router, CNC, or drill lexan would be the prefered choice.


5 years ago on Step 7

ive got a router with the "SPEED control" in different place than the "ON switch"
if i want to do an extension and put a speed controller like yours... I simply connect the plug of the router to the switch, and put the speed switch integrated in the router at maximum??? or i have to intercept the circuit in an other place?

2 replies

Reply 5 years ago on Step 7


I have never used anything with two speed controllers. I think what you described is worth a try.


6 years ago on Introduction

Brilliant! Although I don't have access to a laser cutter, you have definitely sparked some good ideas from this instructable! Out of curiosity do you use a fence? If so what kind, length (dimensions), or did you make one? One person I saw asked about making a lift for it. An idea if you had a plunge router is making a shelf about mid way under the stand and use a car scissor jack. ;) . Again very nice to see a simple and easy router table made that makes the 200.00 ones look pathetic!

1 reply

Reply 6 years ago on Introduction


When necessary I use a makeshift fence clamped to the table. Since the original instructable, I've designed and made a second tabletop using Techshop's Shopbot CNC router. The new table has built-in rails to hold a fence. When I get the chance I'll update the instructable.

Thank you for my comment.



6 years ago on Introduction

Very nice instructable, thank you!

I have an older version of CorelDraw (x3) that will not open the file. What version of Corel did you use?

4 replies

Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

Thank you.

I used CorelDraw 6 at Techshop. I don't know if CorelDraw 6 can save a file in version 3 format. I'll check on Monday, and if it can, I'll upload it too.


Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

Thank you!

Suggestion: if possible, post as a PDF so everyone can open it.

Thanks in advance.


Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

I added a PDF version of the design. Unfortunately, I didn't see an option to save the design in an earlier version of CorelDraw.


6 years ago on Introduction

Wow, this is all kinds of awesome. Thanks for the instructable. I've been wanting to build something like this for the longest but thought that I'd need a metal face plate and never thought about an acrylic one.


6 years ago on Step 7

This is great! I have a hitachi tr-12 3hp router....which i am almost scared to death when i use...but this will be a nice addition and will give me some more confidence when i use it.


Nice job.....after using acrylic, lexan, and other plastics I've been happiest with 1/4" phenolic...tough, doesn't flex/vibrate, and the mounting screws don't chip out.


6 years ago on Step 7

The speed control is a good idea if you are using fairly large diameter bits. If you don't use a speed control you can use a light switch. Also you should rout some slots in the table big enough for some carriage bolts to use with wing nuts and make an adjustable fence out of plywood.