DIY Truss Sofa Table




Introduction: DIY Truss Sofa Table

About: I run where we focus on Woodworking and DIY Projects, Plans and Tools. Come check us out and let us inspire you to build something awesome!

In this Instructable I'll show you how to make a Truss Console Table with a reclaimed wood top.

If you want to see a little more detail on the build or download plans, you can head over to my DIY Truss Sofa Table post on my site.

Be sure to watch the video above, and if you like it please subscribe to my YouTube channel!

Step 1: Get Your Materials and Tools

Tools Used


Step 2: Build the Legs and Aprons

The whole base is made from readily available construction lumber. I cut the legs from 4×4’s and used 2×4’s for the rest of the base. I cut the apron and lower stretcher pieces to final size but left the parts for the truss detail a little long so I could cut them to length later. I made my table 5-1/2′ long, 30″ tall and 16-1/2″ deep, but you can vary yours to your needs.

I ripped all the 2x4's down to 3" to remove the rounded edges then I started assembling the base with the sides. I drilled pocket holes in the short and long apron parts that will hold the top. I flipped the legs upside down then glued and screwed the short apron parts to the center of each leg with 2-1/2″ pocket screws. I’ll attach the lower side stretchers between the legs later after I’ve positioned the truss detail.

I attached the front and back aprons to one side, again centering the apron on the table leg. Since I couldn’t clamp the aprons to the leg directly I clamped the aprons to the table and then clamped a block behind the leg to keep it from moving backwards.

I installed a support bracket between the front and back aprons. The bracket will tie in the truss detail later and is mounted flush to the bottom of the aprons.

Step 3: Build the Outer Truss Detail

I started with a mock up of what I wanted to do. I cut all the piece to rough size and then fit them as I went. I attached the riser to the center of the lower stretcher first then fit the outer supports.

I cut a 50 degree miter on one end of each outer support. Then I lined up the support and marked the length I needed to be flush with the top of the center riser and cut a complimentary 40 degree miter on the other end. If your miter saw doesn’t go to 50 degrees you can just cut 45 degree angles here and you just won’t have as much width to the truss ( or you can cut 47 and 43, 46 and 44, etc.)

I cut each outer support to size then clamped the supports in place with a face clamp and secured screws into each one using 3/8" counter bore holes.

Step 4: Build the Inner Truss Detail and Fill Holes

The last part of the truss is the inner supports. To get the right length I butted the square end against the outer supports and marked where it met the center riser. This angle is the same as the last one at 40 degrees.

I cut the supports to length, drilled holes in the lower stretcher just like before and secured the mitered ends of the support from underneath. Then I secured the other end with pocket screws to finish the assembly. The back side of the truss with all the pocket holes won’t be seen, but I went ahead and filled all the holes with ⅜” dowels and cut the all the plugs with a flush trim saw. Then I sanded it down smooth all over.

Step 5: Mount the Truss Detail

I flipped the table base upside down on my worktop and mounted the lower stretchers with 4 screws into each side piece and then plugged them with dowels.

I sanded the plugs flush then screwed the truss assembly into the top and secured it to the side stretchers.

The last thing I did to the base was to plug the remaining pocket holes and then give the whole base a good sanding at 80 and 150 grit.

Step 6: Build the Top

I used reclaimed 2x6's for the top. To keep as much character as possible I ran all the boards through my planer only on one side until I got down to new wood on the underside of all three of them.

I took them to the jointer next and referenced the flat face against the fence and jointed one straight edge on each board.

To glue up the top for the DIY sofa table I didn’t use any biscuits or dowels, just wood glue. I used a silicone brush to put the glue on the lower 3/4 of each board to try and avoid glue squeeze out on top. These brushes are great for getting the glue just where you want it. I left the wood in the clamps overnight.

After the glue was dry I cut the top to length using a circular saw and an edge guide.

Step 7: Apply Finish and Assemble

I do a light sanding with 80 grit. Then I come back with 150 grit to get everything smooth to the touch. I used a water based polyurethane to finish the top and put on two strong coats with a chip brush.

For the base I painted it a medium gray with a satin latex enamel and put on 2 or 3 coats. I attached the top with some tabletop fasteners and the table was all wrapped up.

If you like this build and want to see more then be sure to subscribe to my YouTube channel.

You can get detailed plans for this build here:

Be the First to Share


    • Puzzles Speed Challenge

      Puzzles Speed Challenge
    • CNC Contest 2020

      CNC Contest 2020
    • Secret Compartment Challenge

      Secret Compartment Challenge

    2 Discussions


    3 years ago

    I'm not usually a fan of 2x furniture, but this turned out great. Really enjoy your Youtube channel too.


    Reply 3 years ago

    Thanks, man! Ripping the edges off the 2x4s really changes it.