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Step 1: Priniting the Parts
The most time-consuming process of the total build.
It took around 30 hours to print the all the parts. I printed them on my Anet A8.
Many people had asked me why I had stopped using the Anet A8. I was kind of obsessed with the Ender 2 quality, but I managed to tweak the setting and get better prints. So I decided to make the whole project on Anet A8
Step 2: Assembling the Mask
Thi mask was printed it 8 pieces. All of which were joined using CA glue. I should have used a clamp for easing the job. I took some time to join all the pieces but after they were joined I took some filament and friction welded for additional strength.
What is Friction welding?
Friction welding (FRW) is a solid-state welding process that generates heat through mechanical friction between workpieces in relative motion to one another, with the addition of a lateral force called "upset" to plastically displace and fuse the materials. Because no melting occurs, friction welding is not a fusion welding process in the traditional sense, but more of a forge welding technique.
Step 3: Sanding the Mask
After all the parts were assembled I took some 80 Grit sandpaper and sanded the mask for quite some time.This was done to make it ready for priming/applying putty.
I also took time to remove the sanded particle away before applying putty.
Step 4: Applying the Putty
What is putty ?
Acrylic Putty is a water-based putty used on alkali resistant Primer, which provides rich, smooth finish when applied on masonry walls to fill substrate imperfections. Its unique design and butter like consistency ensure easy applicability, excellent fitting, leveling and sanding properties.
I applied the putty to the mask and let it dry for 2-3 hours
Step 5: Sanding the Putty
When the gaps have been filled and the putty is dry, you are in for a boring but nevertheless necessary task; you must now sand the filled joins. Start with 800 grit wet-and-dry sandpaper and gradually work you way down to 1200 or even 1500 grit sandpaper. Be very careful not to sand off too much plastic, or you may ruin the subtle shapes of your model. Take frequent breaks and check the parts under a strong light source so you can spot the rough areas still in need for some sanding. Keep the sandpaper wet all the time, or you may end up with ugly and hard-to-remove scratches on the plastic surfaces. As you sand off the excess putty, you will notice that the putty has almost become a part of the plastic and conceals the gap very effectively. Since all putty has a slight tendency to shrink and crack, you may find small cracks and tiny bubbles in the putty. Just put on another thin layer of putty to fill these tiny imperfections and sand it flush one more time. When you feel happy about the filled areas, wash the model under running water to remove all the sanding residue. I sometimes even use a Scotch Brite pad to carefully rub off the most stubborn sanding particles. Even if the putty probably has a different color than the plastic parts, it will not be visible once the model has been painted. But it may make it quite hard to spot remaining cracks and imperfections. When the parts are fully dry, spray a coat of primer over the area you're working on
Step 6: Painting Deadpool
The last job is to paint the mask with some spray paint.
I painted the whole mask with cherry red and then masked it with masking tape.
And gave a coat of black spray for the eyes.
Unfortunately I don't have polyurethane spray to give the paint a protective coating