Don't you hate it when your knobs are spinning?

ME TOO!

Here is a modification I've devised based on cast metal knobs I've seen that have a nub on flatside of the knob that contacts the drawer front.

This is part of a larger project of mine where I am building a "built-in" closet.

Step 1: Step 1 - Gather Your Equipment and Materials

1) finish nail
2) drill bit that has a 1/32" smaller diameter than the diameter of the finish nail
3) wood screw with a thread 1/32" larger in diameter than the predrilled hole in the wooden knob
4) drill bit that has a 1/32" smaller diameter than the diameter of the shank of the wood screw
5) drill
6) wooden knob
7) dikes (diagonal cutters)
8) pliers

Step 2: Step 2 - Sizing Your Drill Bit to the Finish Nail (this Will Be the Anchor)

Good practice when working with wood and drilling holes for screws or nails is to undersize your hole diameter as compared to the nail or screw.

I've seen countless instructions with kit furniture and such that have the builder using a 1/8" drill for a 1/8" screw.

My experience has been that undersizing the drill bit slightly provides a much stronger mechanical fit because of the friction created.

When I say undersized, I mean by about 1/32". This isn't an exact science because hardness of wood comes into play but essentially you don't want the hole so undersized that you split the wood or have to force the fastener into the hole. It should go in tightly but not ridiculously tight!

Step 3: Step 3 - Drill the Anchor Hole

In this step you want to drill a hole that is perpendicular to the surface of the backside of the knob. This'll help your installation go much smoother with a better looking end product.

The hole should be fairly deep into the knob--drill as far you'd need to go that would leave about 1/4" of wood undrilled thereby preventing fully penetrating the knob.

The deeper you go, the better resistance to twisting force you'll have--go to far and pop through the other side and you have an ugly hole that will bug you every time you see it!

Step 4: Step 4 - Size the Length of the Anchor for Cutting

In this step you place the finish nail into the hole you just drilled with the pointed end placed into the hole.

Once it is fully inserted, take your dikes and lightly mark a spot about 5/16" up from the surface of the knob.

You are lightly marking them with a gentle squeeze that'll leave an impression that you'll cut in the next step.

Step 5: Step 5 - Cut the Anchor

Use your dikes to cut the finish nail. This is where your pliers come in handy. By using the pliers to hold the part of the nail that'll you'll keep, you prevent losing the piece.

Believe me, you might never see the other piece again because it'll go flying! Make sure you protect your eyes and the eyes of anyone with you!!

Step 6: Step 6 - Insert the Anchor Into the Knob

Insert your anchor with the pointed end protruding from the surface of the knob.

Step 7: Step 7 - Measure Depth of Hole in Knob

By using a very unscientific and nontechnical method, you'll measure the depth of the hole in the knob.

Using the drill bit that was sized for the wood screw, insert the shank end (non-cutting end) into the hole fully.

Pinch the bit and pull it out.

While still pinching the bit, grab a ruler and measure the depth of the shank starting at where you are pinching to the end that was fully submerged.

This is the amount that the screw needs to extend from the surface of the drawer front after having been fully inserted through the hole.

I've dry fit the cut screw into two pieces of wood that are the same thickness as the drawer front to illustrate how far the bolt will penetrate after it has been properly sized.

The depth of field in the photo makes the screw on the left appear smaller in diameter but it is actually the same as the one on the right.

Step 8: Step 8 - Cutting the Wood Screw

This step requires considerable hand strength so if you'd rather use another method, feel free!

I was just to lazy to take out my hand grinder and plug it in.

And I was certainly to lazy to use a hacksaw! U-u-u-gh!! That's too much work...

Step 9: Step 10 - Aligning the Knob to the Drawer Front

In this step, I've used to scraps of wood that are the same thickness as the drawer front, to make illustrating the assembly easier to photograph.

I start by placing the shank (non-cutting) portion of the drill bit through the drawer front so that it extends past the surface of the drawer front.

Then I place the knob onto the drill bit shank. Next, slowly push the knob towards the drawer front until the anchor makes contact.

THIS PART IS CRUCIAL! You must be careful to push the knob onto the front of the drawer so that it seats flatly against the drawer front. Remember, you are also making a hole in the drawer front with the anchor.

If you look at the images below, you'll see an example of a knob that is seated flatly and one that is not.

Remember, a little extra time now means you may be looking at a mistake every time you open the drawer or looking at a fine piece of finished cabinetry.

Step 10: Step 10 - Fastening the Knob

This is the final step.

You insert the wood screw from the inside of the drawer front and screw it into the knob using your drill with a screw driver attachment.

Make sure you are putting significant counter-pressure with your other hand to push against the screw coming through so that the knob is held tightly in place.

Step 11: BONUS STEP 1

Go make yourself some breakfast! You deserve it!!

Step 12: BONUS STEP 2

In this step I show how I prefinished the knobs that I installed.

a) I made a jig where I place the uncut screws through holes in a piece of wood and then lightly screwed the knobs on top.

b) I applied a homemade sanding sealer using 1:1 ratio of polyurethane and mineral spirits.

c) Once that had dried, I lightly sanded the surface with 220 grit sandpaper.

d) Next, using cheeseclothe dampened with mineral spirits, I wiped the sanding dust off of the knobs.

e) Next I applied a coat of pure polyurethane.

f) At this point, repeat steps c-e at least 1 more time.

Use a white bristle tapered china brush to get results without brush marks.

Clean and store your brush in mineral spirits. I've got mine stored temporarily in the ziplock bag with a ziptie because I will be using it again soon. Otherwise rinse fully and brush the china brush with a wire brush and until the mineral spirits come out clean after repeated applications.