Drive-In Bike Parking




About: Just an ordinary person who loves #thinking and #tinkering
Sometimes a lazy person should think hard and work hard to enjoy laziness.

I am one of those lazy people. One of the routine that I need to kill is parking a bike with kickstand. I had removed my rusty kickstand last week when I finished making this PVC Bike Wheel Stand. It was intended for my Arduino Intelligent Brake Light project, but then the rusty kickstand was annoying my view. I will replace it anyway, so I removed it right away.

Then I am thinking how can I park my bike without a kickstand. Can I just drive-in and park the bike? Yeah.. This is the answer. Please watch this video (^_^ )

I pumped my flat rear wheel for this short video in action and it just go back to flat position in 30 seconds :D

Step 1: Materials to Be Prepared

Prepare your PVC pipes and joints :

  • 2 x 14"
  • 4 x 9.5"
  • 4 x 7"
  • 2 x 6.5"
  • 2 x 4"
  • 10 x 2"
  • 12 x L-joint
  • 4 x T-joint

Others :

  • a piece of 18" x 5" hard board (not too thick).
  • a barrel bolt door latch.

Tools :

  • a drill.

Step 2: Prepare the Board

Make sure your door latch is a little bit wider than your board, half an inch at both sides is okay. And also make sure the screws are no longer than the board's thickness. The latch will be on the ground and the board is your drive-in pathway. A long screw will come out at the other side of the board and that means not safe for your wheel. Place the door latch about one third from the top and two third from the bottom of the board. After you have fasten all screws, bent the part where we put a lock (sorry, I don't know the name of that part he.he.) so that it will keep the barrel bolt center. So it is now an unbalanced see-saw.

Step 3: The Drill

Drill two L-joint elbows at the size of the door barrel bolt about 1.25" from the elbow's end. Always drill a pilot hole for a more precise position of the hole. Use your 2" pipe to join the "L"s temporary so that they can sit on the floor for drilling as in the photo above.

Step 4: Assembly

Now let us put those pipes together. Take a look at the photos in order. I put some notes about the pipe length. For connecting "L" to "L", "L" to "T" and "T" to "T" we use 2" pipe in between.

Step 5: Fasten With Glue

After you have done with the construction, you can glue each connection for a stronger build. The board is 5" width and it might not be so hard to drive-in. Otherwise.. practice more ;)



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    11 Discussions


    2 years ago

    For the light weight of a bike, 10 mm plywood and not too long will do good in this project, as it is only lifted around 10 mm off the ground (the size of your barrel bolt door latch). This drive-in board also hold the bike so that it doesn't slide out (move backward).


    2 years ago

    I like your idea of extra supports for the uprights. I have made these before (minus the ride in board) only to have them crack because they were too flexible.


    2 years ago

    I like this. I too prefer to park fast, hop off and go. I'd only like to see it sturdier, maybe some sand in the bottom tubes, and painted one color to look nicer. Voted for you though.

    2 replies

    Reply 2 years ago

    Ooh, was I hasty with that reply. The rocker plate is a great touch too.


    Reply 2 years ago

    Thank you for voting ^_^

    About filling sand in the base tubes, yes I agree, to make it heavier. At first design I was about to make the front pipes longer and rest it on a wall. But on testing everything works good if we don't drive-in too fast (and we should not). The 4-inch pipe at the base will stop the wheel, while the rocker plate will also hold it and prevent it moving back without a pull. When you pull out the bike, the rocker plate will just drop back to the position ready for driving in because the outer plate is longer from the hub and heavier, that's the point of making the see-saw unbalance ^_^

    I am no good in painting, but I think one color is so dull. If I were to paint, yellow at the white pipes and leave the "L"s and "T"s in grey. Then the "rocker plate".. that was a cool name you give it :D .. I would paint it yellow-black arrow pointing in ;)