Easy Build Heavy Duty Slingshot

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Introduction: Easy Build Heavy Duty Slingshot

About: I enjoy building things. There is something quite satisfying about making something from various parts, rather than just buying it. Also, I tend to be a bit frugal. So, many,if not all, of my projects will b...

This slingshot is heavily based on a slingshot outlined by Joerg Sprave in the video "How to make a power steel slingshot with common tools". I have, however, slightly modified his design to simplify construction and allow for a later upgrade to add a whisker biscuit, which will allow you to shoot arrows with this slingshot (given heavy enough bands - See Joerg's videos to see this type of thing in action).

DISCLAIMER: This slingshot can handle very powerful heavy bands, and therefore this can be a very dangerous slingshot. It can injure and probably kill. DO NOT point this thing at any people or pets. This goes double when the whisker biscuit attachment is added. I take no responsibility for what you do with this thing once you build it.

The above being said....I just might try it out shooting paintballs at some point in the near future...

Step 1: Step 1: Materials

Materials
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2 - Simpson Strong Tie T-Plates (With an extra hole drilled in the center)
1 - Hyper-Velocity Slingshot Band Replacement Kit (This was out of convenience...for more power use Theraband Gold or Black)
4 - 3/8" Hex Nuts
4 - 3/8" Flat Washers
1 - 5"? Carriage Bolt (Pick a bold that fits your hand nicely)
2 - 3/8 x 4" Eye Bolts (Sold with nut attached...so really you need 6 nuts total if these are not present)
1 Roll - Black Duck Tape
A few feet of light twine/string (optional)
Krazy Glue (optional)
20 Gauge Hardware Wire

Tools
-------
Most of my tools are in the city at my brother's place since I normally have no use for tools at my apartment. I keep a small amount around just in case, so for this project, I actually did not use all the appropriate tools. I will outline what I used and what should have been used.

9/16" Wrench (Should use 3/8")
Adjustable pliers (Ideally use another 3/8" wrench)
Wire cutters
Needlenose Pliers

Step 2: Step 2: Attach Handle

Screw a nut as far onto the carriage bold as you can, and then put a washer on the bolt.

Run the bolt through the center hole of the plate, as shown.

Place another washer and nut on the bolt, and tighten.

I later cut the excess threads off the top of the handle.

Step 3: Step 3: Add the Posts

Decide how high you want your posts to sit. Keep in mind the higher the posts, the more the strain on your wrist. If you do not plan on cutting off the bottoms of the eyebolts, then you do not need to worry too much about this right now, and you can experiment to find a height you like.

The key thing here is to have the first nuts on the eyebolts at the same height. Once this is done, put the eyebolts through the plate from the top, and place a washer and nut on the other end of the bolt. Make sure the open part of the "loop" is facing away from the direction you will be pulling. Tighten.

I then put some Krazy Glue in the threads to, hopefully, make them less likely to loosen up.

Step 4: Step 4: Add Your Band

Bend the end of the band around the eyebolt.

Stretch the end and band together, and twist the wire around the bands.

This is not an ideal way to do this, but I could not figure out how to do a proper constriction knot, and I didn't have any appropriate strong string to tie these bands properly. Hopefully the wire holds up well.

For the proper way, check out constriction knots on YouTube.

Step 5: Step 5: Grip

For the grip I wound some string around the carriage bolt for 2-3 layers and helped it stick with some Krazy Glue. I then put about 5 layers of Duck Tape on the grip, over the string. This thickened the grip a bit, and made it nicer to hold onto. In the future I may upgrade the grip using something like what Mr. Sprave showed in the video I linked at the beginning.

Step 6: Further Developments

When I get around to adding the whisker biscuit, I will update this instructable with the how to.

So, stay tuned, and thanks for reading!

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    49 Discussions

    It's unbelievable that anyone would use wire to hold bands on. First of all, it WILL eventually cut the bands and they will break. Secondly, when they do break, there's a good chance that wire will come back and strike you in the face and/or eyes. Anyone with even the most basic knowledge of slingshots knows that you never ever use wire. Rubber bands work perfectly and work better than anything else. A constrictor knot doesn't even apply to slingshots even though it's the easiest knot in the world to tie with numerous pictures of it available. "Over the top" is the method used to tie bands or tubing. Even commercially made slingshots that use tubing don't use a constrictor knot. They simply cut a small hole in the tubing and run the other end back through that hole for a clean look.

    3 replies

    "A constrictor knot doesn't even apply to slingshots"

    except that Joerg Sprave, who has built around 4 gazillion slingshots recommends using constrictor knots.

    "Over the top" is the method used to tie bands or tubing"
    Well, yes, sometimes, other wise tubing is looped through an eye, like Dankung slings, or bands shooting TTF (through the fork)

    No, as the cost could be different in different places, and could increase over time.

    the 3/8 X 4 Eyebolts, a Home Depot item?

    Great idea but I'm thinking that the handle needs to be longer so that there is more distance between your hand and the ends of those bolts hanging out under the T-plate. Either that or you might want to trim off the ends with a bolt cutter and put some rubber caps or plastic-dip the ends of them. For people like myself with bigger hands and a serious grip, it could cause problems with getting scuffed or cut up.

    Why does it have to be a T shaped plate? Couldn't it just be a strait shaped plate?

    1 reply

    As stated in the instructions, I used a T plate to accommodate a whisker biscuit if I decided to do that down the road. I didn't end up doing that. A straight player would work fine.

    I have a heat cured/cooked muscadine vine for the handle that is virtually indestructible to build for grandkids. I wouldn't change anything else. Great job!

    They were standard decking t plates. roughly 5x5 if I remember correctly.

    I didn't put a price list on as I was writing this because prices both change over time and differ depending on where you are in the world.