This quilt top can be sewn in a day! You only sew squares and up with a great modern, triangle chevron design. I even include a quilting diagram if you need some inspiration on how to finish this project.
Great for beginners and takes a small amount of fabric for a throw sized quilt!
For more projects like this that might not be featured on Instructables, check out my blog
Teachers! Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.
Step 1: Materials Needed
You will need:
- 3 contrasting cotton fabrics - 1.5 yards of each
- Fabric scissors
- Sewing machine
- Fabric Pins
- Thread (polyester or cotton)
- Rotary cutter and mat ( optional)
- Iron and ironing board
- Quilting ruler (or a 10.5" square made of something study like card stock or plastic)
- Large piece of cotton material that measures 60" x 70" for backing (can be made of combined pieces of material)
- Batting that measures 60" x 70" (any type - cotton, polyester, bamboo ect.)
- Fabric spray temporary adhesive (my favorite is 505 Basting Spray)
Also, for quilting your quilt you may want to have a walking foot or darning foot for your sewing machine. While these items are not necessary, they make the process much easier.
Step 2: Cutting and Marking Your Fabric
*For the purpose of this tutorial I will be using grey, white, and yellow fabric. You can choose your own three contrasting fabrics, or copy mine!*
From each of your three fabrics you need to cut 10 squares.
Each piece should measure 10.5" square.
On all 10 of the white squares, and 5 of the yellow squares, you need to mark a diagonal line on the wrong side of your fabric.
Using a quilting ruler is a great way, and the ink can be permanent. The drawn line will be hidden in the seam allowance, it will not show in your quilt.
Step 3: Pinning and Sewing
You need to pin your fabric with right sides together.
5 white squares to 5 yellow (unmarked) squares
5 white squares to 5 grey squares
5 marked yellow squares to 5 grey squares.
Sewing your blocks (The best part!)
Now you need to sew a 1/4" seam on either side of the line that we had drawn down the middle of our pinned squares.
Once you have sewn down either side of the line, use the drawn line as a cutting guide and split the sewn blocks in half! Press with your iron to open up the 2 squares you have created.
Sew all 15 blocks, and cut down the middle to make 30 blocks.
Step 4: Assembling Your Quilt Top
Now that you have sewn your blocks, start assembling them into rows.
Use the title picture of the quilt as a layout.
Sew your vertical rows, then join your rows together to finish your quilt top.
I like to use pins during this stage to keep my rows from shifting around while I sew.
Step 5: Basting Your Quilt Top
Now it is time to baste! Which is to put the three layers of your quilt together in a 'sandwich'.
You start by taking your one large piece of fabric (your backing) and taping it down to the floor. When you tape it down, use a light masking tape (it comes off easily). Spread out the fabric on a clean floor, being careful to smooth out any wrinkles. Make sure the 'right' or 'patterned' side of your fabric is against the floor, the wrong side facing up at you.
Once you have got it nice and taught and smooth, place your batting on top. Again, smooth out all the wrinkles, but this time instead of taping it down, we are going to spray glue it to our backing fabric. I like to use 505 temporary fabric adhesive for this. I start by pulling back the batting by the corners, spraying the back of the batting and then smoothing it back onto the fabric. Do this for all four corners until the batting is securely attached to the the backing fabric.
Now the final step to basting is to add your quilt top. Take your quilt top (pretty side up to you, all your raw seams down) and place it on top of your batting you just attached. Now just like the batting, smooth it out, then peel back the corners, spray and re-smooth.
Ready to quilt!
Step 6: Quilting and Binding! the Finale!
For quilting your quilt - the options are endless. You could quilt it by hand or machine. Straight lines or free motion. For this quilting I used the walking foot on my sewing machine and quilted straight lines and curved lines to create a secondary design. On my diagram you can see my quilting plan. I used cotton machine quilting thread and I also really enjoy wearing rubber gloves to help me rotate my quilt around. A walking foot can be easily and inexpensively purchased on Ebay, just check that it matches your machine number before you purchase. They attach easily and you can just sew like you regularly do, but the special foot will guide all layers of your quilt through the machine without any bubbles or puckering.
For binding your quilt you want to cut long 2.5" strips of a fabric you would like as the frame to your quilt. Sew these long strips together on the ends to make an even longer strip. Continue this until you have a strip that is 15"s longer than the perimeter of your quilt top.
Using your iron, press the 2.5" strip down the middle to create a fold (making the strip thinner). Now using pins, align the raw edges of your strip to the back of your quilt along the edge. (See picture). Sewing 1/4" from the edge, sew a straight stitch along the entirety of your quilt. When you reach the end, make sure to attach the two ends together to make one continues frame. The final step is to then turn your binding over to the front of your quilt, pin, and sew along the edge, top stitching as evenly as possible.
Don't forget to label the back of your quilt! A permanent fabric marker will do, or create your own fancy labels! Happy stitching! Remember, the joy is in the process so no rushing necessary :)