Materials that you will need:
Empty jar (I used a pickle jar, I also already have a little bit left from my last batch)
Stick (spoon, straw, etc.)
Citronella oil (Lighter's fluid will also work)
Warning: This stuff will continue to burn as it falls apart. Fire burns. Ouch!
Just to answer everyones' questions/comments: This isn't Military grade napalm, nor does it use a Styrofoam and gasoline mixture (known famously as a "Homemade Napalm"). Also the oil is "Lemon scented" in this version, which usually means someone, somewhere was smelling the fumes let off by burning it, which means that you probably (I can't guarantee it cause you may be allergic to something in the oil) won't die from it.
Here's a Wiki excerpt explaining REAL NAPALM:
"Napalm is usually a mixture of gasoline with suitable thickening agents. The earliest thickeners were soaps, aluminum, and magnesium palmitates and stearates. Depending on the amount of added thickener, the resulting viscosity may range between syrupy liquid and thick rubbery gel. The content of long hydrocarbon chains makes the material highly hydrophobic (resistant to wetting with water), making it more difficult to extinguish. Thickened fuel also rebounds better from surfaces, making it more useful for operations in urban terrain.
There are two types of napalm: oil-based with aluminum soap thickener, and oil-based with polymeric thickener ("napalm-B").
The United States military uses three kinds of thickeners: M1, M2, and M4.
- The M1 Thickener (Mil-t-589a), chemically a mixture of 25% wt. aluminum naphthenate, 25% aluminum oleate, and 50% aluminum laurate, (or, according to other sources, aluminum stearate soap) is a highly hygroscopic coarse tan-colored powder. As the water content impairs the quality of napalm, thickener from partially used open containers should not be used later. It is not maintained in the US Army inventory any more as it was replaced with M4.
- The M2 Thickener (Mil-t-0903025b) is a whitish powder similar to M1, with added devolatilized silica and anticaking agent.
- The M4 flame fuel thickening compound (Mil-t-50009a), hydroxyl aluminum bis(2-ethylhexanoate) with anti-caking agent, is a fine white powder. It is less hygroscopic than M1 and opened containers can be resealed and used within one day. About half the amount of M4 is needed for the same effect as of M1.
Starting in the early 1990s, various websites including The Anarchist Cookbook advertised recipes for homemade napalm. These recipes were predominantly equal parts gasoline and styrofoam. This mixture closely resembles that of napalm-B, but lacks a percentage of benzene.
Napalm reaches burning temperatures of approximately 1,200 ÃÂ°C (2,200 ÃÂ°F). Other additives can be added, eg. powdered aluminum or magnesium, or white phosphorus.
In the early 1950s, Norway developed its own napalm, based on fatty acids in whale oil. The reason for this development was that the American-produced thickening agent performed rather poorly in the cold Norwegian climate. The product was known as Northick 11II.
Some weapons utilize a pyrophoric variant, known as TPA (thickened pyrophoric agent). Chemically it is a triethylaluminium thickened with polyisobutylene."
Teachers! Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.
Step 1: Mix Them Together and What Do You Get...
1. Take the powdered sugar and pour about a cup into the jar.
2. Now take the oil and pour about a 3/4 cup into the jar.
3. Mix them together, add more oil or sugar as needed until you get a mixture that resembles whipped cream or butter.
That's all there is to it. Easy as I said it would be. There's a Video below so you can watch how well this stuff burns (a nice steady pace). This stuff does become kind of hard after being stored for a while. Just take the spoon and mix it up, good as new.
Experiment with it to get new effects.
Add regular or brown sugar into the mix.
Try mixing some saw dust in.
Hope you've enjoyed this instructable. Next time you're at a BBQ, take a jar of this stuff out and smear it on the grill (on the coal, not the actual grill) to help start the fire.