Edge 3D Printer V.2.0

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About: My name is Zach Sousa and I'm a Canadian highschool student that has a passion for making.

Hello, In this instructable I will show you how to make a very low cost, lightweight 3D printer. This 3D printer is about the same size of the printrbot simple, but has a bigger print bed at 6x 5.5x 4 Inches, weighs less than the printrbot simple at about 5.1 pounds, the printrbot simple weighs around 7 pounds.

Update: V3 is out! https://www.instructables.com/id/Edge-3D-30-a-200-3...


***Please vote for this Instructable in the CNC challenge (upper right corner)! I'm 13 and I designed and built this myself so please, if you like this instructable favourite, vote and comment. It encourages me to keep doing what I do. If you really want to help me, please share this project with your friends that might like this instructable***

This is the second version of my 3D printer. I've made a V2.0 because my last 3D printer instructable was very popular, receiving over 125 000 views and over 1500 likes! If you want to check out 1.0 here is the link: https://www.instructables.com/id/Edge-3D-Printer-an...

Step 1: Parts and Tools

Parts:

GT2 pulley x2: http://tinyurl.com/qc4m6ez

GT2 Belt (about 2m): http://tinyurl.com/nr6wn25

USB type b to type b extender x1: http://tinyurl.com/ohcmybf

DC power socket x1: http://tinyurl.com/nwe8lv5

LM8UU Linear Bearing x4: http://tinyurl.com/n98ehwv

Acrylic x3 8"x12" (You can also buy it from a local plastics shop and it is about the same price as aliexpress): http://tinyurl.com/k4bzjge

30mm Fan x2: http://tinyurl.com/nqxgg8d

3d printer wiring pack x5: http://tinyurl.com/o8mont4

Direct Drive gear x1: http://tinyurl.com/on5sr2p

608 bearings x1 lot of 5: http://tinyurl.com/kqo2lpg

M3 8mm screws x1 lot of 50: http://tinyurl.com/kz48fcp

M3 25mm screws x8 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Low-price-1-piece-M...

M3 10mm screws x20 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Low-price-1-piece-M...

5mm to 8mm coupler x1: http://tinyurl.com/pmwtn8r

SC8UU linear bearing x2: http://tinyurl.com/pp9jquw

Arduino Mega and RAMPS board kit x1: http://tinyurl.com/lzozwlw

Endstops x3: http://tinyurl.com/q47m5cq

Nema 17 motors x1 lot: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wholesale-5-pcs-a-l...

Ceramic Hotend: http://tinyurl.com/plbysqu You can use an all metal one but you must have a fan to cool it down or it will melt the 3D printed mount

Smooth Rods: 1272T38 Mcmaster Carr part #.

Threaded Rod: Home depot 5/16 inch threaded rod and a nut that screws onto the rod

Tools:

Laser Cutter

3D Printer and filament or buy the parts from 3dhubs.com

Files

Soldering Iron and Solder

Computer with Arduino IDE, Pronterface and Slicer software

Step 2: Laser Cut and 3D Print Parts

Laser cut and 3D print these Files:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:767555

Step 3: Mount Motors and Bearings to the Acrylic

Using the M3 8mm screws mount the Nema 17 stepper motor to the main acrylic piece. This is the piece that has the most mounting holes. Do this for both the both the x and z motors. Now mount the SC8UU bearings. To do this, push M3 25mm bolts through the four mounting holes, put the bearing on top of the acrylic, push the bolts through the acrylic piece and add nuts and tighten them until they can't wobble.

Step 4: Wire Motors to the RAMPS Board

In this step, we wire the stepper motors to the controller board. Do this by plugging the motor cable into the connector board. On the board, there are headers that you connect the cable to. Don't worry about polarity: this won't affect the motor, it will just spin in reverse which you can invert in the firmware.

Step 5: De-solder USB-B and Mount It to the Acrylic Side

Extend arduino's USB connector by desoldering the type b connector and just adding wires to each of the pins bringing the wires to the connector. It sounds complicated, but it is really simple.

Step 6: Wire the Rest of the Connections

Use the image provided to wire the rest of the connections.

Connect both of the red wires from the hotend to D10 (the screw terminal) and +. Again the polarity does not matter at this moment because the hotend is just shorting out a flame proof resistor to heat up. Then wire the thermistor wires to T0 on the board. The polarity also does not matter on this one because it is a resistor.

Step 7: Couple the Z Motor Shaft to the Threaded Rod

Couple the Z motor shaft to the Z motor rod using the coupler.

Step 8: Make the Extruder

Mount the part called "current extruder" to the motor connected to the extruder motor driver on the RAMPS board. Now, push the direct drive gear onto the motor shaft and secure it by screwing in the setscrew, then add the 625ZZ bearing onto the circular mount next to the direct drive gear.

Step 9: Mount Power Jack

Mount the power jack on the back acrylic piece (the one with the maple leaf on it).

Step 10: Build the Enclosure

Route all of the wiring from step 10 through the opening in the top piece (near the Z motor) Glue the ramps board to the bottom piece using hot glue.

You can now assemble the whole enclosure with some of the M3 8mm screws and nuts. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. If you do the acrylic will eventually crack that's what happened to my acrylic so keep that in mind while tightening the screws. The enclosure comes together like a puzzle and there should be only one possible way to put it together.

Step 11: Build X-axis

Glue the endstop for the x axis to the left side of the top acrylic piece in between the two SC8UU bearings. Mount the 3d printed X axis part where the x axis motor is. Then press-mount the two 625zz bearings onto the 3D printed piece.

Step 12: Z-Axis

To start the Z-axis, mount the Z-stabilizer piece to the primary Z motor (the motor at the back of the printer) with some M3 10mm bolts. Then push the two Z smooth rods through the two parallel holes in front of the Z motor.

Step 13: Y Axis

To make the Y axis start by mounting the Y axis stepper motor to the part called "latest z axis part" and putting the GT2 pulley on the motor shaft and tighten the setscew to secure it onto the shaft. Then press fit the Y axis rods into the 8mm holes on the side of the part.

For The Extruder Mount: To start the extruder mount, slide in the LM8UU bearings into the bearing holes ( The 16mm holes) and use super glue or JB weld to make sure that they wont slide out of place. After the bearings are in place, mount the ceramic hotend into the hole at the bottom of the 3D printed part and again use JB weld to secure it in.

Continuing the Rest of the Y Axis: Slide the extruder mount's bearings through the rods attached to the "latest z axis part" and slide the "latest Y end cap" onto the Y axis smooth rods. Now fit the GT2 belt through the rectangular holes on the extruder mount. Then, loosely fit the end of the GT2 belt through the rectangular hole in the back of the "latest y axis end cap". Finally add the 608zz bearing into the rectangular hole and put the whole assembly ontop of the threaded Z axis rods, making sure that the one of the threaded rods goes through the 608zz bearing. Now you can add the Y axis end stop, currently I don't have a mount for it so you will have to just superglue it making sure that it clicks when the extruder assembly is at its minimum point.

Step 14: Power Supply

You need a way to power the 3d printer of course! A really cheap and simple power supply is an ATX power supply from a computer so if you have an old computer power supply laying around you can put it to good use. To use it you must solder the green wire (Power Good) to any ground wire (Black wire) these wires are normally used to detect if the motherboard of the computer is connected to the power supply so if you don't solder those wires together the power supply will not turn on.

Then wire any yellow wire (+12v) to the voltage in connector on the RAMPS board and any ground wire to the negative input connector. An alternative to this is ordering a laptop power supply from the internet. the laptop power supply MUST be able to provide at least 5AMPs at 12 volts.

Step 15: Program Arduino

Download the Marlin firmware here: https://github.com/zachsousa/Edge-3D-Printer-Firmw...

Then unzip the compressed file: Marlin_for_edge_copy.zip and move the folder into --> Documents --> Arduino --> Sketchbook.

Open the Arduino IDE and go File --> Sketchbook --> Marlin_for_edge_copy. Then click "compile" if it compiles successfully, if it doesn't, make sure that the board is "Arduino Mega 2560" under tools --> board then click upload while the printer is connected to your computer via a USB cable.

Step 16: Calibration

To calibrate your printer find this line in marlin's "Configuration.h" folder:

// default settings

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 2618, 90}

#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE

#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000

#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000

Once you find this part, open Printrun Pronterface or whatever your favourite 3D printer controller is. Then having some calipers handy, press the move 10 units button (It should have a 10 on it) and measure the actual distance that your printer moved and write down that number for each axis.

Once you have the number of mm that your printer moved for each axis (for example 8 instead of 10mm), go into the code and find the default axis steps per mm. Use this formula to find out the new steps per mm :

S = (OS x SD) / RD

Where S= The correct step amount; the number that we are trying to find.

OS = The old steps per mm in our case this is 80.

SD = The number of mm's that the printer thinks that it moved in our case, 10mm.

RD = The actual distance that you wrote down for each axis

So if our 3d printer moves 8mm/10mm and our old steps per mm is 80 it will =

(80 x 10) / 8 = 100

So our new steps per mm = 100. If that is the number for the x axis replace the first number in the steps per unit line of code (we replace the first number because in the array the pattern is X,Y,Z,E).

Do this for all axes and yor 3d printer is calibrated.

Step 17: Slicing and How to Use

Here are the slicing settings that I currently use: (Use images)

These also work if you use them in Slic3r or any other slicer, I just prefer Cura because it is fast and accurate.

To actually print something from the printer download an STL file from a site like youmagine or thingiverse. Once you have downloaded an STL file you can drag the file into your slicer or choice and click "Export Gcode" and save it to your desktop. To control the printer I like Printrun pronterface ( http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ ). Once it is downloaded you can select "open" and select your G-code that you wnat to print. Connect your printer using a usb cable and press the "connect" button in pronterface. You are now connected to your printer and now you can press print. It will take a few minutes to heat up. When it is completely heated up it will start homing all axes.

Step 18: Video

Here is a video showing the printer in action.

Sorry for not having a time lapse. The video is shaky because I don't have a tripod for my phone (I could 3D print one).

Pi/e Day Contest

Runner Up in the
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3D Printing Contest

Runner Up in the
3D Printing Contest

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Second Prize in the
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242 Discussions

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Zach Sousa

3 years ago on Introduction

UPDATE on the kits:

So, I have (most of) the parts for 2 kits. Yeah, that is a bit of a disappointment. Over 20 people wanted them, now I'm not so sure if anyone even wants them. The (1/2 year) delay was caused by some problems, all of which were my fault. I haven't posted any instructables recently because:

1. I was stupid and spent most of my money that I had on parts for the kits, so I'm kind of broke until I sell the kits.

2. My makerspace's laser cutter is broken, they are working on fixing it, but that will probably be at least another 2 months

I have decided on selling the kits through ebay for the first 8 kits or so, probably an auction. For the first 10 kits, ALL profit will be going to the next kit (which is about double profit with currency conversion). By doing this, I will sell the 2 kits at first, then I can afford 4, then 8 and so on. The price is $250 US. That includes everything needed to build the printer, including laser cut acrylic.

After I sell the first 10, I will use the profit to buy an X-Carve so I can continue to make the acrylic pieces. Alternatively, if I'm able to make a 3D printed instructable (I have some ideas), I will enter it into the epilog laser contest.

Feel free to ask any questions about the kits.

3 replies
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Yonatan24Zach Sousa

Reply 3 years ago

Sounds interesting, You'll probably sell hundreds :) Good luck!

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dwleo

Question 8 months ago on Step 2

Still looking for the STL file for the extruder. Do you have it?

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AshmesH

1 year ago

what is the max size in printer ?

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Zach SousaWiseSageBum

Reply 2 years ago

This is an older version, but its max is around 6x5x4 inches

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mdudas

2 years ago

Got it working. Thanks

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mdudas

3 years ago

What program did you use to draw the laser cut parts? I can not bring it up correctly in coreldraw or inkscape

3 replies
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Zach Sousamdudas

Reply 2 years ago

I used inkscape to design the parts.

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mdudasZach Sousa

Reply 2 years ago

I tried Inkscape. It does not look right and will not lasercut.
Could someone please save it in a Coreldraw file?

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Zach Sousamdudas

Reply 2 years ago

I also have a .dxf for the 3.0. You could try using coreldraw to open it.

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mdudas

2 years ago

I am having the same problem with V3

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Zach SousaYonatan24

Reply 2 years ago

Sorry about the delay on them, I'm shipping the first few on March 15th.

If you do still want one, The ones that I am selling are the 3.0 that I recently posted:

http://tinyurl.com/zud57jp

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Ninjaduck21

3 years ago

Can I buy the laser cut parts off of you? I can access everything else, but I can't seem to figure out how to format the lasercutter files. Sooner would be best, since I am building this for a school project. Thanks!

1 reply
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Zach SousaNinjaduck21

Reply 3 years ago on Introduction

Sure! I'll laser cut the acrylic tomorrow for the people that just want the acrylic parts. Does $35 sound good?