Efficient Production of Iron(II) Oxide (Fe2O3)




While experimenting with different ways to make Iron Oxide to use in an exothermic reaction demonstration, I tried all the different ways that I found online with varied results. This is the method that I have developed which seems to be the fastest way to Efficiently produce Iron(II) Oxide. This will produce a fine redish brown powder which I believe to be Fe2O3. It works very well in some exothermic reactions.

Chemistry is my new hobby (very new) so forgive me if I make mistakes in terminology, or worse.

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Step 1: Materials

You will need the following items to follow this guide.

1. Steel wool. (I use Grade #0000 Other grades will work but I use the finest for faster results)
You can get this at any paint store, including the paint department at Wal-Mart.

2. A flat, non-reactive, non-porous, clean surface to work on. (I use the glass tray from an old microwave.)

3. 2 spray bottles. (1 if you don't use salt)
One of these should be non-transparent because it will hold hydrogen peroxide and any light will quickly cause decomposition of the peroxide. You can buy small dark bottles of peroxide at most drug stores, including Wal-Mart.

4. Table Salt. (optional)
A cup or so will last a while for most people.

5. 3% (or higher) Hydrogen Peroxide.

6. A plastic spoon (or something like it)

7. A magnet that will fit in your spoon (or whatever) without protruding over the edge.

Step 2: Preparing the Steel Wool

When you buy steel wool it will usually have a coating of oils (or something) to prevent oxidization. Since oxidization is our goal, we will want to remove the oils from the surface of our steel.

I use regular non-scented dish soap and water and just wash and rinse it several times. You can also use Acetone, if you have any, for the final rinse.

Let the steel wool dry well before moving on. I use my kitchen oven to dry it. If you decide to use your oven, BE CAREFUL, especially if you used Acetone to rinse. As counter-intuitive as it may be, steel wool ignites pretty easily and burns pretty hot. In fact, a 9V battery will ignite it almost instantly.

Step 3: The Setup

Unroll, or rip, your steel wool pads so that you get the thinnest single layer of steel mesh as possible on a solid, non-porous, non-reactive surface such as glass or slate. You want to be able to scrape this surface with a razor blade to collect the product. IMPORTANT: This may permanently stain the surface, so don't use your kitchen counter.

Spray the wool with the peroxide that you have in the dark bottle. (You DID use a dark bottle didn't you?) Just enough to thoroughly soak it. Any puddling around the wool is wasted peroxide and will only serve to prolong the time it takes the wool and surface to dry.

I'm not exactly sure if it contaminates the product or not, but I use a sodium catalyst to speed the process up. I have been using this method from the beginning and it hasn't caused any problems with the Iron Oxide as my experiments with it go. If you chose to do this, simply mix some table salt and warm water in the other spray bottle and shake it well. Spray just enough to cover the steel wool completely. Less is more. Remember this isn't necessary to begin with so don't dilute the peroxide.

You can see some rust forming the the image. This was sprayed just minutes before the picture was taken. The oxide should come to the surface of the steel wool pretty quickly depending on how well you cleaned the wool and if you chose to use a catalyst.

Let this set overnight, or until it has dried completely and rust can be shaken out of the remaining iron.

Step 4: Harvesting

This image is after performing the following steps several times, but the process is the same.

After the wool is dry and you are confident that oxidization has slowed to a crawl (I leave it overnight between steps) you can begin to extract some product and repeat the last step.

With a solid, flat, non-porous object (I use a flat-bottomed glass), crush the wool, as if you are trying to make a powder of it, until the bulk of the rust is release from the remaining steel wool.

Remove what part of the steel wool that you can manually and shake all the rust that you can from it before setting it to the side.

Now that the bulk of the remaining wool is removed, crush the pile of (mostly) rust again to make a powder as fine as you can get it.

Unless you are really good at manually removing the steel wool, you will still have a lot of iron in the pile. The best way that I have found to separate the remaining iron from the desired product is to use a magnet in a spoon (I'm working on an electromagnet with a variable power supply that will be much better, but for now this works). With the magnet in the plastic spoon, hover over the pile just enough to attract the iron particles but not enough to attract the oxide. The distance will depend on the magnet and the spoon that you use but with practice it become easy and surprisingly effective. When you have lifted all the iron that the magnet is capable of attracting, simple remove the magnet from the spoon, dropping the iron in a separate pile, and start over. Do this until the only thing left in the pile in Iron(II) Oxide, then scrape this up and put it in an appropriate container.

Place all your iron wool and small particles back on your oxidization surface (microwave tray in my case) and go back to step 3, spraying and waiting again.

Repeat this until you have converted all of the steel wool to Iron(II) Oxide. It has taken me between 2 and 4 days. This seems like a lot until you consider that it would take the same amount of time to do a much larger batch. Theoretically, with enough steel wool and peroxide, any volume of iron oxide could be produced in this amount of time.

Thank you for reading my first instructable. I hope it is of some help. I would like to give credit to my son Christian, who has been an invaluable member of my "lab team" and has helped a great deal in developing this method. :)



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    41 Discussions


    9 years ago on Step 4

    Wouldn't simply lighting the steel wool on fire and letting it burn produce the same result in much less time? Or are you concerned that it would be contaminated heavily with black iron oxide?

    8 replies

    Reply 9 years ago on Step 4

    Plus when you burn steel wool it gives off smoke as well which is matter lost.


    Reply 1 year ago

    I doubt the iron is being vaporized. Any smoke is likely impurities like oils to prevent oxidation.

    I see your point. Plus when I think about it, the amount lost is minuscule anyhow... Though I think you could have the black iron oxide problem. I'll let you know as soon as I get more batteries :P


    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    Can you elaborate? how is it different, and when you say 'usable' is it just as good for thermite as the vinegar oxidation, or no? Are you speaking from experience or speculation?

    Just curious, not trying to badger you ;)


    Reply 3 years ago

    burning steel wool will give you black iron oxide which is used for things like pigments. The above process will give you natural red iron oxide which is used in things like thermite.


    Reply 1 year ago

    Black Iron Oxide Fe3O4 is already partially oxidized. It can easily be further oxidized to Fe2O3 in an acid exposed to air.


    4 years ago on Step 2

    we are now setting up a project to produce about 2-3 tones of Red iron oxide pigment (Fe2O3), who can make tech transform for us?



    4 years ago on Introduction

    Although hydrogen peroxide readily decomposes, it doesn't decompose THAT quickly. 3% hydrogen peroxide holds ten times its volume in oxygen (at standard temperature and pressure). Thus, you'd know it was decomposing because it would effervesce like a carbonated drink.

    If you want stronger hydrogen peroxide, you can buy it at a hair care store such as Sally Beauty. They will sell 12% to the general public; licensed cosmetologists and barbers can purchase 15%. It's sold "by volume." 3% is 10 volume; 12% is 40 volume. You can find 35% online.

    ilpug asked how to make aluminum powder. Buy a roll of aluminum foil. Tear the foil into small pieces and wad them up. Fill your blender/food processor about half full with the wadded aluminum. Put the lid on. Crank it all the way up to full speed. The blade will reduce it to a coarse powder. The difficulty with this process is that the aluminum is so light and easily moves past itself -- thus providing very little resistance for the blade. In fact, it provides substantially less resistance than the same volume of water. Once you've ground some of it down to a coarse powder, pour it into another container and process another batch. Continue until you have enough coarse aluminum powder to fill the blender ½ to 3/4 full. Add it all back to the processor and let it process at full speed for several minutes.

    I always thought that blue/black iron oxide had a higher ratio of oxygen than red/brown iron oxide (simple rust) and would be better for using to make thermite. I guess I was wrong.

    I'm no chemist, but I sure love playing with stuff.


    5 years ago on Introduction

    would using burnt steel wool as opposed to the method showed above change the ratio of iron oxide to aluminum powder for a termite mixture


    6 years ago on Introduction

    Acecase most likely misnamed the chemical formula.
    Fe2O3/Iron(III)/Ferric Oxide - Shown In This Video
    FeO/Iron(II)/Ferrous Oxide - not shown in this video
    I hope this clears up any confusion.
    neath Secreg


    8 years ago on Introduction

    You have shown us how to make Iron oxide, now show us a easy way to make powdered aluminum!