Eggcellent Night Light!

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About: I like whiskey on the rocks, bears, videogames, my rottweiler Cisco, and ring pops. I work for an uber rad gaming outlet as a designer, an occasional writer, and a World of Warcraft podcast host. Aside from ...

Intro: Eggcellent Night Light!

This is my first Instructable! I've recently been reading a lot about LEDs and about simple LED Altoids flashlights and I got inspired one day (after cooking a deelish fritata) to incorporate eggs into the whole LED-Altoid-lovefest. I wanted to make something that looks simple yet could pass for something "classy."

What I came up with was this Eggcellent Night Light. It's minimalistic. It looks modern. It also shares some creepy Pagan relic "lunar" qualities.

MATERIALS:
(1) large white egg
(1) mint tin box - just the bottom half
(1) double AA battery pack
(1) white LED 3+volts
(2) AA batteries
(1) slide or push switch with two leads
(1) black paint or black spray paint

TOOLS:
-glue gun
-awl/screwdriver
-soldering iron
-metal punch or drill
-chopstick

Step 1: Let the Hollowing Commence!

There are oodles of way to empy an egg. I'm used to the poke-a-hole-on-top-and-on-bottom-and-blow-through-one-hole-to-force-the-yolk-out method. Call me old-fashioned. But it's really crucial for the egg to have only one hole and it has to be at the bottom.

(optional step)
If you are not confident with yourself in guesstimating where the bottom of the egg is, take a small piece of paper, color it with colored chalk, and place the egg upright on the paper. The chalk should mark where the utmost bottom is.
(/optional step)

Use an awl or small screwdriver to tap/carve a hole at the bottom of the egg. Once a tiny hole is made, start tapping along the circumfrence of the hole to make it larger until the hole reaches 1/4in in diameter.

Due to pressure and surface tension, the yolk and white of the egg doesn't just come gushing out. I found out that the most efficient way is to stick a chopstick in the whole and just move it in and out to let the innards leak out fairly quickly.

Rinse the inside with water and let dry.

Step 2: Prepping the Tin Base

Take apart the mint tin box by prying the hinges loose. The bottom, deeper part will be your base. Make two holes (using drill or metal punch); one hole at the very center of the tin, one near a corner for the switch. The hole in the center should measure 1/4in in diameter, and the size of the hole for the switch will be dependant on which switch you use.

(optional step)
I decided to sand and file the holes so that they're flatter. I also sanded the outer surface of the tin for a more matte texture. It also helps for the paint to stick.
(/optional step)

Paint the outer surface black. I used some leftover Warhammer 40k "Chaos Black" paint. Let dry.

Step 3: Meet My Soldering Iron of Justice

This project requires a simple circuit with one LED.

Remember, the positive lead of the LED should be the longer one. The positive lead also has a smaller head *in* the build.

Do not solder yet. Make sure everything fits first. The battery pack door for batteries should sit in the tin on the exposed side.

Solder the switch into the circuit first and leave the LED bulb last. String the wires through the center hole of the base from the bottom, and fit the switch in the switch hole.

Use a glue gun or clear glue cement to glue the battery pack to the in the base.

Step 4: Finishing Touches

After the base is pretty much all done with the battery pack all snug, it's time to solder the LED light to the wires. The lenth of the wires + LED coming out from the pase should be 1/2in to 1in long. The closer the LED light is to the base, the more even the light would be in the egg.

Now for the last thing...*drum roll*....

Place a few beads of hot glue in the center hole to secure the light and wire. Sit the egg on top of the tin with the LED light and wires placed in the egg. Hold the egg down for a few minutes to stabilize while the glue dries.

..and voila! Your own totally eggcellent pagan-esque night light! Or give it to a friend as a wanky artsy fartsy housewarming present!


PS. The photographs don't show the eerie bluish glow of the egg caused by the natural lining of the egg. It's quite exquisite. Nature's cool!

PPS. If the egg breaks or has an unsightly crack, don't fear, just break it off and glue another hollowed egg.

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    57 Discussions

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    brenna1123435

    5 years ago

    Try making one that is POSSIBLE to make

    You should use a current limiting resistor in serial with LED. and a tip: You can build a joule thief...It will work on one battery more than 10 days if contuniously used..

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    SG1Oniell

    7 years ago on Introduction

    Chaos black, lol, another 40k fan. We just happen to have all sorts of materials somewhere. So what army do you play then?

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    aleinlegs

    9 years ago on Step 4

    thats a great idea, but if you bump into it or it falls, then you have to struggle to hollow out another egg

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    cloot100

    9 years ago on Step 4

    how do you make that i tried but it already it broke.

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    mje

    11 years ago on Step 3

    Great idea, using the egg. But you can't connect a pair of AA cells to just any white (or other) LED without burning it out. Usually you need a current limiting resistor in series.

    9 replies
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    TXTCLA55mje

    Reply 9 years ago on Step 3

    depends what voltage the battery('s) equal and what the required amount need for the LED to light. normally anything above 3-3.5Vdc needs a current limiting resistor.

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    mjeTXTCLA55

    Reply 9 years ago on Step 3

    It depends on the internal resistance of the battery and the voltage drop and current limit of the LEDs. For most small LEDs, anything over 20ma will severely limit their life.

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    LasVegasmje

    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

    He used a white 3v LED. It should have no problem without the current limiting resistor. This is an okay instructable, especially for a beginner. I would suggest pouring some melted paraffin wax into the egg, swirl it around so it coats the interior and adds a bit of strength to the fragile egg.

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    sehrgutLasVegas

    Reply 11 years ago on Step 3

    Umm . . . no problem except torching the LED prematurely, you mean? Brush up on Ohm's Law. An LED has a VERY low forward resistance (that's kinda the purpose of diodes, doncha know), and will draw far more current than is healthy for the semiconductor on 3V. If that doesn't help you, try "Why use current limit resistors on White LED's?".

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    iscatelsehrgut

    Reply 10 years ago on Introduction

    The page you supply the link to says that supplied by batteries, without resistor, the LED will outlive the batteries. All diodes have a forward resistance and a resulting voltage drop. All batteries have internal resistance. Ohm's law is very helpful, but like punching two significant digits into a calculator and getting out 14, can lead you down the garden path. Same here--build it and poke around with a meter, calculated values and real values always differ.

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    sehrgutiscatel

    Reply 10 years ago on Introduction

    Yes, I'm quite aware of the internal resistance of batteries, and the voltage drop across an LED is part of the calculations cited on that page. As far as being glad an LED can outlast its battery . . . huh? Since when is it a "good mark" for a gadget to simply be able to last long enough to have to change the battery? Properly-used, an LED (white or otherwise) will last for years of constant illumination before any detectable performance drop: outlasting a single change of batteries is hardly evidence of proper use.

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    iscatelsehrgut

    Reply 10 years ago on Introduction

    Case in point: keychain flashlight. $1.00 at the dollar store, $1.50 to replace the 2 lithium cells included with. If it were for a more durable app, I'd agree but in this case when the batteries die, I'm tossing the light & buying another. I may pull the LED.

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    LasVegassehrgut

    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

    I would agree normally, but in this case he is using the less than the voltage that the LED is rated for. In this case, the current will actually below the LED's specification. If he were using 5VDC, he would have needed a current limiting resistor to drop the voltage across the LED, limiting the current to spec.

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    momo!LasVegas

    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

    I was actually thinking of swirling modpodge into the egg to add some elasticity. The beautiful thing with that is that if the egg does crack lightly, the light will be able to show through.

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    TXTCLA55

    9 years ago on Step 4

    love it, but wont the egg shell slowly decompose? shouldnt you add some sort of sealant or wax to keep it from doing so?

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    GorillazMiko

    10 years ago on Introduction

    Cool idea! Very easy to do, might try this out for fun, just like the previous comment I just gave to another Egg light Instructable. +5/5 stars. Go eggs!

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    i am going use a uv led

    the amazing cancer giving glowing egg lamp of death im gunna print out a hazard uv rays sticker i will put it on the base