- 1/8 Acrylic Sheet. An 11.0x9.0 in. rectangle will be sufficient.
- Small fasteners, and coresponding nuts. In this case I used M3 button head screws, 8mm long. (These can be anything, really, ANSI 4-40 screws would work with these files too)
Step 1: Laser Cut Parts
Download the above files into vector graphics program of your choice and laser cut.
A speed of 10%, power of 100% and default frequency cut fine on a 120 epilog engraver.
Step 2: Assemble
Make sure you know which side of the small plate (black) will be down. Fix the larger (white) plate to the top side of the small plate with the fasteners. Thats it!
Assuming the kerf (thickness of the cut) of your laser/material was similar to mine the lid should fit with a satisfying click.
Step 3: How Was This Made?
To make the lid fit nicely, I used the CAD model of the resin tray.
1. I downloaded an IGES file version of the resin tray from:
2. Then I made a plane which intersected the side walls of the resin tank. The plane represented the bottom surface of the smaller plate, which was to fit inside the resin tank. The plate's top surface was to be flush with the top rim of the resin tray. It was important to put the plane a the correct height, because, as I discovered after some confusion, the side walls of the resin tray are not perfectly vertical.
3. The plane/resin tray intersection resulted in two curves, the smaller of which became the exact profile of the small plate (black). The larger curve, representing the outer perimeter of the resin tank, was offset by 5mm to make the exact profile of the larger plate (white). The offset creates a small lip by which the lid can be pried of the resin tray. This also gives some space for a gasket, if it becomes desirable to have a more air-tight lid.