3D Printed FPV Rover V2.0




Introduction: 3D Printed FPV Rover V2.0

About: Like to make stuff

This is the second version of the FPV-Rover. A lot of people requested to have one version with 540 motors (brushed and brushless) and here it is.


Nerf Dart Launcher Instructables: https://www.instructables.com/id/Nerf-Darf-Launch...

Nerf Dart Launcher Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3835285

GoPro Mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1936491

Rubber Gun: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1269962

Trailer: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1700138

Latest update 27.03.2020

This is the next major update of the FPV-Rover.
A lot of parts have been redesigned to save material and print time and to reduce support on the parts needed. Some changes:

- less material in main body
- camera cutout in main body smaller
- enforeced ventilation holes in the inner frames
- cutout in the inner frame to have more space
- less material in outer frame
- ability do screw external modifications to the outer frame (new projects)
- added a bevel gear with a ratio of 4:1 additional to 2:1. This reduces motor overheating and increases torque
- new ESC mount

Step 1: Parts to Print

Find all parts you need on Thingiverse as well

I printed the rover in PETG and the tank track in PLA. PLA will work as well for the rover. The bevel gears were printed in PLA and the second one in Taulman Nylon. So far I see no problems with PLA.
for the rubber tracks I used Ninjaflex and glued them to the tracks with CA glue.

2x main cog front
2x main cog rear (needs support)
8x small cog
1x body (needs support)
2x outer frame
2x big bevel gear (use 4:1 for less heat and more torque)
2x small bevel gear (I recommend strong filament like Nylon) (use 4:1 for less heat and more torque)
2x motor mounting bracket
2x ESC mount
1x inner frame left
1x inner frame right
1x front cover (needs support)
1x rear cover
64x tank track
64x rubber track for tank track

Step 2: Parts You Need (BOM)

Here is the list with all necessary parts for the rover

Remark to the front camera:
You can use the IR-Cam as regular cam. It works perfectly. If you want to use the IR-mode, you'll need the two-channel-switch for this. In addition a IR-LED would be good. Otherwise the camera cannot work in completely darkness

Remark for motor and ESC:
Although the brushless kit (motor and ESC) is more expensive, I recommend to use brushless. You have far more torque and the motor won't overheat.

2x brushed 540 motor or 2x brushless 540 motor (recommended for heat reduction) use version A

2x brushed ESC 160A 3S or brushless ESC (recommended)

1x Program card for brushless ESC

2x heatsink with fan (fan will be unmounted and used to cool the whole track system)

8x bearings 6802zz (24x15x5) (for main cogs)

16x bearings 688zz (16x8x5) (for small cogs)

1x front camera (IR-Cam) or regular camera

1x two-channel-switch (to use the IR mode of the camera)

1x rear Camera

1x camera switch (only needed of front and rear camera will be used)

1x servo (for the tilt mechanism for camera and LED)

24x magnets (4x2) (front and rear cover are hold in place by magnets)

2x 2S 2200mAh lipo (You can use any 2S lipo with maximum dimension of 109mm x 22mm x 38mm)

1x FPV-Antenna

1x FPV-Transmitter

Screws and nuts

128x M3 x 14mm cap head screws (to mount the tank tracks together)

8x M3x8mm Phillips countersunk screws (motor mounting bracken and ESC to frame)

6x M3x10 button head screw (to mount the motor to the motor mounting bracket and the big bevel gear to the rear main cog)

16x M3 nuts

12x M3x50mm cap head screws (to mount everything together)

2x M2x6mm cap head screw (to mount the small bevel gear to the motor shaft)

2x M2 nuts (to mount the small bevel gear to the motor shaft)

4x M2x6mm cap head screw (to mount the front camera)

CA glue, hot glue gun, screw driver, some cable, soldering station

Step 3: Prepare Motor

Add two nuts into the holes in the mounting brackets.
Attach the motor to the motor mounting bracket by using the M3x10mm button head screws.

Add one M2 nut in each small bevel cog and push it onto the motor shaft. You can screw the M2x6mm screw into the hole, but do not secure the bevel gear right now. It has do be adjusted afterwards.

Unscrew the heatsink from the fan (that will be used later). Cut down the holders from the fan and attach it to the motor.

Step 4: Prepare Main Cogs and Small Cogs

You need 2 front main cogs, 2 rear main cogs and 16 small cogs (8 each side).

For the main cogs you need 8 bearings (24x15x5) and for the small cogs 16 bearings (16x8x5). Insert one bearing on each side of the main cogs.

Step 5: Assemble Left and Right Track Frame

Place the cogs into the outer frame.

To mount the fan into the inner frame, use the M3x12mm screws which were in the cooling set. It is sufficient so use 2 screws. Take care of the direction. The fan has to push air into the rover.

As the fans are for 5v, you can solder them to the cable leading to the receiver. The ESC have an integrated BEC for 5v and that fits perfectly.

Both ESC have an on/off switch. You can leave the switch on the ESC and glue them with the hot glue gun into the frame. I unsoldered the switch and connected the two pins. That means, that the ESC are always on, as soon as you pug in a battery.
When you do this, put some hot glue on the pins, so that the ESC is waterproof again.

I put some thick double side tape on the ESC to stay on the frame. Secure the ESC with the bracket and 2 M3 x 8mm Phillips countersunk screws.

Connect the motor to the ESC and place it into the frame. Mount the motor to the frame with 2 M3 x 8mm Phillips countersunk screws.

Pace the inner frame with all components on the outer frame with the cogs. Screw the big bevel gear on the rear main cog with a M3 x 10mm button head screw.
Now you can adjust the small bevel gear on the motor shaft and secure it with the M2 x 5mm screw.

Step 6: Prepare Main Body

Nuts and magnets

Insert 12x M3 nuts into the right places. These will secure the outer frames with the main body.

Insert 10x 4mm x 2mm magnets into the right holes. These will secure the front and back cover. both will only be hold in place by the magnets and are strong enough.


For the tilt mechanism for the LED and the camera, you need a 5g servo. Both, LED and camera will be controlled by only one servo. cut off one side (see image), so that it fits into the position. Use a hot glue gun to glue the servo to the body. Before doing this, find the center position and attach the servo horn.

Camera, LED and switch

The front camera and LED light do have a frame to be attached. For the front camera you need 4x M2 x 6mm screws.
At the moment, the IR-Mode does not work, because I'm waiting for a switch to turn this on and off. Therefore the LED does not to be powered up. We will install it anyway.

Place the FPV-switch to the right side of the front camera. There should be enough space. Glue it down with hot glue.

First insert the LED mount into the hole in there body. Put the camera mount left bracket on the other side of the LED mount. Secure the bracket with hot glue to the body.

Assemble the camera holder with the camera to the left bracket. Push the right camera mount bracket onto the other side of the camera holder and secure it with hot glue to the body


For the tilt-mechanism you need a 0.8mm rod. The camera needs about 45mm length, the LED about 69mm.

Step 7: Prepare the Top Cover

For the top you need, additional to the printed parts, one 40mm fan, one FPV-antenna and 4x 4mm x 2mm magnets.

The two L-shaped parts needs to be glued to the back of the top part.

The front lock consists of two parts each side. Glue the magnets into the prepared holes. Punt the L-shaped part into the hole of the other, so that the magnets hold both parts together. Now you can glue it to the top part.

Use a hot glue gun to attach the fan and the FPV-antenna to the top.

Now you can glue the bracket that holds the FPV-transmitter to the top part.

Step 8: Assemble Main Body

You need 4mm x 2mm magnets for the front cover, rear cover and tow-bar plugs. Glue them into the right place using CA glue.

To attach the outer frames to the main body, us M3 x 50mm cap head screws.

Step 9: Assemble the Two Tank Tracks

Each tank track needs 32 tracks and 64 M3x14mm cap head screws. I recommend printing the rubber tracks as well. I just did this for every second track.

You can glue the rubber tracks with CA glue to the tracks.

Step 10: Done

If you are using a Taranis, you can start with my settings.

Camera tilt: left stick (throttle)

Throttle / Steering: right stick

FPV-Switch: Switch A

Expo: Switch D

  • down: no expo
  • middle: full throttle, 50% steering
  • up: 50% throttle, 40% steering

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    53 Discussions


    2 months ago

    The links to the things I must buy dont work anymore. Can you please update them? Thanks.


    Reply 2 months ago

    Hi trepisky,
    I've checked the links and there are only two which do not work. FPV transmitter and alternative camera.
    I would recommend the IR camera. Works like a normal camera


    5 months ago

    the design if the front camera has changed and now the camera_mount_main design is wrong and does not fit the camera even though the image in the BOM shows it has not


    Reply 5 months ago

    Hi. Just cut off the outer frame. You don't need this. As I did this some years ago for the Vover v1, I forgot to mention it in the description.


    6 months ago

    You have a picture of the version 1 rover small cogs


    Question 1 year ago on Step 2

    I am in the process of building a rover. For first pass I want to follow your directions exactly. I don't see the IR LED in the BoM. Can you recommend a part? Thanks!


    Reply 1 year ago

    Hi Jonathan, I bought my LED 2 years ago at eBay for my first rover. I'll have a look if I find it in my list


    Reply 10 months ago

    I'm interested in this too. If there is another similar one you can recomend or the specs of the one used, that would be great.


    Question 11 months ago on Step 10

    Je ne comprends pas à quoi sont relié vos moteur, caméra FPV
    Pourriez vous m'envoyer le schéma du circuit electronique indiquant les branchement ?
    Merci pour votre aide


    Question 1 year ago

    in STL files You have BIG TRACK - is this normal track can make trakls out of it?


    Answer 1 year ago


    the big tracks have to be glued/screwed to the standard tracks.


    Question 1 year ago

    Hey, you know how to program this ESC with an arduino uno?


    Answer 1 year ago

    Hi Antonio,

    sorry for the late reply. Unfortunately I know nothing about arduinos. Sorry


    1 year ago

    By any chance did you manage to find a manual for the ESCs? I'm trying to control them with an arduino first before hooking them up to the receiver.


    Reply 1 year ago

    i'm trying doing the same, you find how to do?


    1 year ago

    how i can connect the batteries to the esc and to the motors?


    Reply 1 year ago

    on step 10 you can see it on the first image. I soldered two XT60 connectors together to be able to attach both batteries. From the it goes directly do the esc and from there to the motors.


    Reply 1 year ago

    thanks, and how i can charge the lipo batteries? what is the charger?

    1 year ago

    Honestly, I still do not understand how v1 is different v2 and I do not understand if I can attach engines to it as in the image? The fact is that I saw how they were attached to v1, but I don’t know if they would fit v2?