FPV Rover V2.0




About: Like to make stuff

This is the second version of the FPV-Rover. A lot of people requested to have one version with 540 motors and here it is.

Step 1: Parts to Print

Find all parts you need on Thingiverse

I printed the rover in PETG and the tank track in PLA. PLA will work as well for the rover. The bevel gears were printed in PLA and the second one in Taulman Nylon. So far I see no problems with PLA.
for the rubber tracks I used Ninjaflex and glued them to the tracks with CA glue.

2x main cog front
2x main cog rear (needs support)
8x small cog
1x body (needs support)
2x outer frame
2x big bevel gear
2x small bevel gear (I recommend strong filament like Nylon)
2x motor mounting bracket
2x ESC mount
1x inner frame left
1x inner frame right
1x front cover (needs support)
1x rear cover
64x tank track
64x rubber track for tank track

Step 2: Parts You Need (BOM)

Here is the list with all necessary parts for the rover

Remark to the front camera:
You can use the IR-Cam as regular cam. It works perfectly. If you want to use the IR-mode, you'll need the two-channel-switch for this. In addition a IR-LED would be good. Otherwise the camera cannot work in completely darkness

2x 540 motor

2x heatsink with fan (fan will be unmounted and used to cool the whole track system)

8x bearings 6802zz (24x15x5) (for main cogs)

16x bearings 688zz (16x8x5) (for small cogs)

2x ESC 160A 3S

1x front camera (IR-Cam) or regular camera

1x two-channel-switch (to use the IR mode of the camera)

1x rear Camera

1x camera switch (only needed of front and rear camera will be used)

1x servo (for the tilt mechanism for camera and LED)

24x magnets (4x2) (front and rear cover are hold in place by magnets)

2x 2S 2200mAh lipo (You can use any 2S lipo with maximum dimension of 109mm x 22mm x 38mm)

1x FPV-Antenna

1x FPV-Transmitter

Screws and nuts

128x M3 x 14mm cap head screws (to mount the tank tracks together)

8x M3x8mm Phillips countersunk screws (motor mounting bracken and ESC to frame)

6x M3x10 button head screw (to mount the motor to the motor mounting bracket and the big bevel gear to the rear main cog)

16x M3 nuts

12x M3x50mm cap head screws (to mount everything together)

2x M2x6mm cap head screw (to mount the small bevel gear to the motor shaft)

2x M2 nuts (to mount the small bevel gear to the motor shaft)

4x M2x6mm cap head screw (to mount the front camera)

CA glue, hot glue gun, screw driver, some cable, soldering station

Step 3: Prepare Motor

Add two nuts into the holes in the mounting brackets.
Attach the motor to the motor mounting bracket by using the M3x10mm button head screws.

Add one M2 nut in each small bevel cog and push it onto the motor shaft. You can screw the M2x6mm screw into the hole, but do not secure the bevel gear right now. It has do be adjusted afterwards.

Unscrew the heatsink from the fan (that will be used later). Cut down the holders from the fan and attach it to the motor.

Step 4: Prepare Main Cogs and Small Cogs

You need 2 front main cogs, 2 rear main cogs and 16 small cogs (8 each side).

For the main cogs you need 8 bearings (24x15x5) and for the small cogs 16 bearings (16x8x5). Insert one bearing on each side of the main cogs.

Step 5: Assemble Left and Right Track Frame

Place the cogs into the outer frame.

To mount the fan into the inner frame, use the M3x12mm screws which were in the cooling set. It is sufficient so use 2 screws. Take care of the direction. The fan has to push air into the rover.

As the fans are for 5v, you can solder them to the cable leading to the receiver. The ESC have an integrated BEC for 5v and that fits perfectly.

Both ESC have an on/off switch. You can leave the switch on the ESC and glue them with the hot glue gun into the frame. I unsoldered the switch and connected the two pins. That means, that the ESC are always on, as soon as you pug in a battery.
When you do this, put some hot glue on the pins, so that the ESC is waterproof again.

I put some thick double side tape on the ESC to stay on the frame. Secure the ESC with the bracket and 2 M3 x 8mm Phillips countersunk screws.

Connect the motor to the ESC and place it into the frame. Mount the motor to the frame with 2 M3 x 8mm Phillips countersunk screws.

Pace the inner frame with all components on the outer frame with the cogs. Screw the big bevel gear on the rear main cog with a M3 x 10mm button head screw.
Now you can adjust the small bevel gear on the motor shaft and secure it with the M2 x 5mm screw.

Step 6: Prepare Main Body

Nuts and magnets

Insert 12x M3 nuts into the right places. These will secure the outer frames with the main body.

Insert 10x 4mm x 2mm magnets into the right holes. These will secure the front and back cover. both will only be hold in place by the magnets and are strong enough.


For the tilt mechanism for the LED and the camera, you need a 5g servo. Both, LED and camera will be controlled by only one servo. cut off one side (see image), so that it fits into the position. Use a hot glue gun to glue the servo to the body. Before doing this, find the center position and attach the servo horn.

Camera, LED and switch

The front camera and LED light do have a frame to be attached. For the front camera you need 4x M2 x 6mm screws.
At the moment, the IR-Mode does not work, because I'm waiting for a switch to turn this on and off. Therefore the LED does not to be powered up. We will install it anyway.

Place the FPV-switch to the right side of the front camera. There should be enough space. Glue it down with hot glue.

First insert the LED mount into the hole in there body. Put the camera mount left bracket on the other side of the LED mount. Secure the bracket with hot glue to the body.

Assemble the camera holder with the camera to the left bracket. Push the right camera mount bracket onto the other side of the camera holder and secure it with hot glue to the body


For the tilt-mechanism you need a 0.8mm rod. The camera needs about 45mm length, the LED about 69mm.

Step 7: Prepare the Top Cover

For the top you need, additional to the printed parts, one 40mm fan, one FPV-antenna and 4x 4mm x 2mm magnets.

The two L-shaped parts needs to be glued to the back of the top part.

The front lock consists of two parts each side. Glue the magnets into the prepared holes. Punt the L-shaped part into the hole of the other, so that the magnets hold both parts together. Now you can glue it to the top part.

Use a hot glue gun to attach the fan and the FPV-antenna to the top.

Now you can glue the bracket that holds the FPV-transmitter to the top part.

Step 8: Assemble Main Body

You need 4mm x 2mm magnets for the front cover, rear cover and tow-bar plugs. Glue them into the right place using CA glue.

To attach the outer frames to the main body, us M3 x 50mm cap head screws.

Step 9: Assemble the Two Tank Tracks

Each tank track needs 32 tracks and 64 M3x14mm cap head screws. I recommend printing the rubber tracks as well. I just did this for every second track.

You can glue the rubber tracks with CA glue to the tracks.

Step 10: Done

If you are using a Taranis, you can start with my settings.

Camera tilt: left stick (throttle)

Throttle / Steering: right stick

FPV-Switch: Switch A

Expo: Switch D

  • down: no expo
  • middle: full throttle, 50% steering
  • up: 50% throttle, 40% steering



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    42 Discussions


    Question 13 days ago

    Hey, you know how to program this ESC with an arduino uno?


    4 months ago

    By any chance did you manage to find a manual for the ESCs? I'm trying to control them with an arduino first before hooking them up to the receiver.

    1 reply

    Reply 4 months ago

    on step 10 you can see it on the first image. I soldered two XT60 connectors together to be able to attach both batteries. From the it goes directly do the esc and from there to the motors.


    Reply 4 months ago

    thanks, and how i can charge the lipo batteries? what is the charger?

    5 months ago

    Honestly, I still do not understand how v1 is different v2 and I do not understand if I can attach engines to it as in the image? The fact is that I saw how they were attached to v1, but I don’t know if they would fit v2?

    5 replies

    Reply 5 months ago

    Hi Alexey,
    if you want to use those motors, than only V1 will work. V2 is a complete new design (although it looks identically) and those motors will not work. In Step 3 you can see how the new motors in this version will be mounted.


    Reply 5 months ago

    Thank you very much for the answer! It has become much clearer.
    I have two more small questions.
    1 What is the difference between 2s_2200mah and 3s_1800mah?
    2 Is it possible to install 18600 format accumulators in v1?


    Reply 5 months ago

    The main difference is voltage. 2S has 7.2v and 3S 11.1v.
    You can use 3x18650 batteries in series, so that you have 11.1v.


    Reply 5 months ago

    Super! Thank you very much, it's not entirely clear how the case affects the voltage (apparently, there are other battery compartments).
    The main thing that I realized my choice is S3)


    Reply 5 months ago

    The case does not affect the voltage, but the motors :-D
    The motors from V2 can only handle 2S. And even with just 2S the rover is crazy fast.

    The motors from V1 can handle 3S.


    Question 8 months ago on Step 2

    I am in the process of building a rover. For first pass I want to follow your directions exactly. I don't see the IR LED in the BoM. Can you recommend a part? Thanks!

    1 answer

    Reply 8 months ago

    Hi Jonathan, I bought my LED 2 years ago at eBay for my first rover. I'll have a look if I find it in my list


    Question 9 months ago

    can you give the curcuit diagram pls


    Question 12 months ago

    I'm new to RC (I always just program), so I have no idea how to control this thing. What do you use to control the (super cute) bot and (more importantly) see though his little eyes? Also, would it be possible to add I/O pins in him?

    4 answers

    Answer 12 months ago

    Hi, to control this I use a regular remote control (in my case the Taranis X9Dplus https://goo.gl/npDwJa).

    The FPV parts can be found on the BOM (camera, transmitter...)

    Depending on the things you want to use, you can add different components to the rover. For the first rover I built a rubber gun that can be used for V2.0 as well (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1269962), that needs two additional channels. My transmitter has 8 channels. You need 2 for driving and one for the tilt-mechanism. that would mean, that you could add 5 more things.

    In one of the last images you can see the space between the batteries. You can use that for additional electronics.

    Here is a cool thing somebody did https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1979227


    The lcd on the remote is not actually for the camera. It shows dat for the remote and receiver settings.
    And on that note, is also a remote intended for use with an airborne drone. You may get in trouble using it for ground based drones depending on regulations in your area... (Stupid FAA /FCA regulations...something about interference and frequencies...)