Fan Repair for Condenser Dryer - AEG, Electrolux Etc




About: Lecturer in engineering management. Not enough time to make things.

Our dryer failed with an error code E60. There are various error codes to do with lack of heating that can be caused by the fan not circulating the heated air. Some of these can be caused by failed heaters etc but apparently it is common for the fan motor to seize up. You need to do some investigation to determine if the fan is your problem, but if it is, then you can buy a new one for about £150, or it the bearings have seized up you can clean and lubricate them, or swop them for very little money.

The machine is an AEG Lavatherm T 59840. Other models might be similar. I think the part number for the fan-motor assembly is 1125422004.

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Step 1: Remove the Air Circulation Cover

First disconnect the electricity and the drain pipe if you have one, and move the machine out so you can access the rear.

Ok I forgot to take the picture of the cover in place, but we are talking about the big plastic blister on the back of the machine. Its top circle covers the main drum and the smaller bottom circle covers the fan.

You'll need to remove about 15 screws all around the edge, and three in the recess around the main bearing. DO NOT REMOVE the four screws in the centre of the bottom part.

Once the screws are out the cover is held in place by a tab in a slot at the top. Keep this in place while you ease the bottom out to give access to a multi-pin plug that connects the fan motor. Looking at the picture there is a clip just out of sight at left that releases the plug, just push it with a flat screwdriver. When the plug is disconnected you can remove the cover and fan all together.

Step 2: Check the Fan

Be careful as you inspect the fan. I took mine apart just after I had tried the machine, and the fan motor had got very hot.

It has small clips on some of the blades that are easily dislodged. These are used to balance the fan and we can assume you would not be able to put them back in the right place. Then it would shake and its life would be reduced.

See if the fan turns. It should spin easily and not stop quickly. If the bearings have seized up it will be difficult and notchy to turn, although it may free up as you turn it. If it looks otherwise ok, bearings are probably the problem, the rest of the instructable is for you. If it is all burned out you are out of luck, we cannot repair that. If the fan spins freely and is undamaged, your problem may be elsewhere.

Step 3: Remove Fan Motor

Screw up a towel and lace it on a flat surface. Turn the cover assembly over and rest the fan motor on the towel.

Now you can remove the four screws that hold the fan motor in place.

Next lift off the outer cover and the layer of felt insulation (probably together). Now you have to un-clip the plug from its fitting in the corner and feed the plug through the hole as you lift the cover off the motor.

Step 4: Disassemble Motor

In the centre of the motor is a rubber bung. Prise this out. Next is a small circlip that can easily be removed with circlip pliers. If you don't have any, get some. Alternatively, put your safety goggles on and pry the sides apart with two tiny screwdrivers, then go hunting for wherever the circlip landed, hopefully not in your eye. Another way is to place a screwdriver blade between the ends and twist to drive them apart enough to remove.

Keep the parts in order as they come out. Below the circlip mine had a plain washer, then two dished spacer washers, placed with their outer edges together. Now you will see the outer bearing. You should now be able to lift the central motor assembly off the shaft and out of the fan.

There is another bearing at the other end, which will probably stay on the shaft, though it could come out with the motor assembly. Mine stayed on the shaft so I made up a simple puller to pull it out. It is not a tight fit, but it has been in a humid hot atmosphere for years and is awkward to get hold of. I hope you can see how my puller works, the screw presses on the end of the shaft while the wire hooks lift the edges of the bearing.

Under the inner bearing were two more dished washers.

To remove the outer bearing, place the motor assembly on the bench with the bearing at the bottom. Put a metal rod about 5-7mm diameter down through the hole and locate in the edge of the bearing, tap gently with a hammer at one side then the other and the bearing should come out.

Step 5: Bearings...

You might decide to soak the bearings in your favourite solvent, try to agitate them and get all the dirt out, lube them and re-use them. But as this job is taking all afternoon and you don't want to do it again, leave that for another time and buy some fresh ones.

The bearings in this motor measured 8mm inside, 22mm outside and 7mm thick. This makes them a 608. This is a really common bearing, it's the same size that is used in skateboard there are plenty available on the internet and very cheap. In this application they were 608Z where the Z means there is a metal shield. In the pic is one with the shield removed. You can also buy these with water seals, which seems better, especially the dayglo ones, but the seals are made of plastic. As the dryer gets pretty hot you are best to avoid the plastic sealed ones even if they do come with a cool sticker.

I decided to go for some more expensive bearings and get a name I recognise, so I went for the pair shown in their packs, which were £4 for two inc p&P. While you wait for the delivery, it's a good idea to to clean all the parts, removing all the fluff from the recesses of the dryer and the old grease from the motor washers.

Once they arrive it's time to put the machine back together.

Step 6: Reassemble Motor

First, press the outer bearing into place. This is best done with a press and a suitable tool. If you don't have that, find a socket spanner just smaller than the outside of the bearing and place it on top, then tap in gently with a hammer.

Next place the two spacers onto the shaft in the fan. Remember the dished washers go with their outer edges together, so that their middles touch the adjacent parts. Next goes the inner bearing. It is already oiled, but I added a few drops of light oil to make sure. You might find it easier to put it onto the recess in the inner end of the motor and then fit this onto the shaft. the outer bearing is already in place, but I would give it a couple of drops of oil. Next the pair of dished washers, and the plain washer. Everything is held in place by the circlip. Assuming you have found it, place it over the end of the shaft. To get it into its groove you need to press it down the shaft, slightly compressing the dished washers, and when it is there it will locate. Pressing with a screwdriver each side is inelegant but it works. Or, you could machine a small tube about 8.5mm inner and press it onto place with that. Once the circlip is in place it should be possible to turn it, in its groove, without it springing off.

Here's the parts in order: Fan, 2 dished washers, bearing, motor core, bearing, 2 dished washers, plain washer, circlip. If everything is back together ok you can re-fit the rubber bung and enjoy spinning the fan a bit.

Step 7: Reassemble Machine

As for disassembly, place the fan on a towel so that it is steady. Take the inner cover and pass the multi-plug through the hole. Fit the plug into its place in the corner and make sure it is securely clipped in as you won't be able to hold it when you fit the other half. Now carefully straighten the position of the motor so that the cable lug is in position and the lug on the motor boss engages with the slot in the hole. Have your assistant hold the inner cover and motor so that nothing can move.

With the felt insulation inside the outer cover, turn the outer cover over the inner one. If nothing has moved, you can fit the four screws to hold together outer and inner covers and the motor. If something moved, you will not be able to find the holes and the motor may slip out of its position. This is the tricky part!

Check that the rubber seal is in place all round the cover. This can be replaced if necessary.

Next, bring the assembly into place on the back of the machine and engage the tab in the slot at the top. At the bottom, reach into the gap and fit the multi-pin plug. It can only go one way, and it should slick into place. To make this easier I reached into the machine and unclipped a cable clip to give myself a little bit more movement.

Lastly, fit all the screws round the edge of the cover, and the three screws in the middle around the main bearing. Put the machine back in its place and reconnect the drain (if you use one) and the electricity.

1 Person Made This Project!


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9 Discussions


1 year ago

Many thanks Stechi. This is a work of art. Our 59840 is 10y old and thanks to your instructions is back in business today. One suggestion: I noticed a lot of rust powder round the old bearings which, given the warm, damp environment in which they operate is not surprising. So I invested in stainless steel replacements which can be found as SS6082Z or W6082Z. I paid £14 for the pair but hey. I'll post again if they turn out not to be a good idea for some other reason. I gather it is easier to chip stainless balls so I suggest seating the bearings by pushing (hard) but not tapping them. Thanks again.


1 year ago


The same dryer, the same issue (after nine years of high intensity family use). One bearing was almost locked. Same as you, I changed both with SKF 608-2Z (recommended as best for this application by local dealer). I only suggest use a brand new circlip, which could become worn-out and not firm enough after re-use. Thanks a lot for your effort! JAN


1 year ago

Thanks so much for the spot on instructables, I made it. With a little help from my friends for the right tools. It only costed me one fidget spinner (sort of) ;-)


2 years ago

Used the bearings that came off my kids fidgetspinner. Not exactly the quality I'd need but it works


3 years ago

Haven't finished yet, cause I am waiting for replacement ball bearings, but wanted to thank you for posting this. So far its really helped!

Like Stechi I had problemens removing the central motor assembly, as it was stuck. But I was able to loosen it using 2 screwdrivers.

So far it seems like this instructable is going to save me some money and teach me a few things along the way. Thanks!


3 years ago

Hi Stechi,

Perfect instructions, very good photos and worthwhile tips. The only problem I had was lifting the central motor assembly, as it was jammed.

Overall cost about £7 and about an hour on either side. And I saved about £144 (cost of the motor) plus the engineers charges, but most importantly, I can say that I FIXED IT.

Thanks a lot.


3 years ago

Hi Bill, and Dicorn,

Many thanks for your thanks, it's good to know this works for people. I must have been in a funny mood when I wrote it, but I had saved a wodge of cash and was very pleased! The machine is still going.


3 years ago

Thanks for the instructions and info on the bearings required.

Ordered mine before attempting the repair.

My were stuck in the armature but using my bench drill as a press the were soon extracted.

£6.02 total cost and an hour 15 minutes to complete, took my time didn't want to damage the bearing housings.

Many thanks again for posting this article, thank heavens for the Internet, saved about £150.


4 years ago on Step 5

Hi man,

Thx for the instructions , i fixed now my dryer for like 10 euro's,good instructions & thx for the info about the bearings