Fix & Repair Your Noisy & Rough Drill Machines




About: Hi I am Marine Engineer by Profession. I Like things relating to Mechanical, electronics, Gaming and new inventions. I like repairing my house hold equipment's and keep them running in good condition general...


Hello everyone in this instructable I will show u how to fix & Repair your noisy & rough drill machines

Every machine needs overhauling if ignored then it will affect its moving part to wear out due to various reasons for example:-

Lack of lubrication will lead to rise in temperature, Insufficient cooling, Erosion, wear down of gear etc....

Now days drill machines are found in every house since it's a very useful tool.

So I have decided to prepare this instructable as easy as possible for everyone.

It will just take your 1 hour to fully overhaul your drill machine properly and work like new, smooth with less noise.

Step 1: Things Required

I have Black & Decker 500W, 10mm Drill machine it's a very good brand, I am using it from past 1 year I have no issues with the drill machine till date and performance is too good.

Things needed

1. Screw driver.

2. Lint free cloth.

3. Brushes.

Step 2: Disassembling

Before opening drill machine take some precaution

1. Disconnect the power cord.

2. Keep work area clean (dust free, moisture free).

3. Do not force tools.

4. Use the right tools.

Opening Procedure

1. Loosen up all the screws.

2. Remove the body cover(Important make sure that the spring is not misplaced during removal of cover)

3. Remove in Sequence (spring, Fwd & Rev push button, hammer action switch button, chuck- gear assembly, helical gear-heat sink assembly, Armature & Stator Assembly).

Step 3: Visual Inspection & Cleaning

1. Visually inspect all the part for damage.

2. Look for any loose electrical connection and tighten it properly.

3. If the grease color is turned to blackish then it is recommended to replace it with a new grease.

4. Look for any dirt accumulation and clean it with a dry brush.

5. Clean the fan with brush.

6. Remove any dirt accumulation over the Stator, Rotor winding's carefully with dry brush.

7. Check freeness of the bearing.

Step 4: ​Cleaning Gears

1. For cleaning gears take a piece of paper, fold it from between and remove grease from the groves.

2. Lint free cloth is also used for cleaning grease.

Step 5: ​Cleaning Body Internally

1. Use dry lint free cloth for cleaning body internally.

2. Once all the grease is removed.

3. Spray glass cleaner liquid on the lint free cloth and clean again (don't spray directly on the body).

4. Let it be kept aside for drying.

Step 6: ​Applying Grease and Boxing Back

1. Use brush to apply grease on gears uniformly.

2. Don't apply excessive grease since during running it will stick to the body and get accumulated inside.

3. Apply machine oil on the shaft of chuck & gear assembly.

4. Assemble all the parts.

5. Hold the stator with one hand and rotate the chuck by hand (1 or 2 revolution so as to check the freeness of rotor and to distribute grease over the gears uniformly).

6. Box back and screw it tightly in sequence.

Now plug it in and run the machine at low rpm for few sec (30 sec) so as to avoid grease applied being thrown away from the gears.

Now after overhauling u will definitely feel smoother running, less noise from you drill machine

Overhauling period depends on your use mostly 1 year or your drill will let you know when it requires fresh grease and lubrication it will start become noisier during use, typically a loud squealing or screeching sound.

I hope this would be helpful to all.

Thank you.

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    15 Discussions


    3 years ago

    Another note regarding vintage plug-in power drills. I have a 1960's Wen 1/2in 2 speed, gear shift as variable speeds had not arrived yet, drill that with some maintenance & a lot of use is still in good condition. #1 do not let the brushes wear down go the point of having the metal end contact the commutator. That will put a groove in the copper strips that should be removed. If it is to deep and there will not be enough copper left then just leave it and go ahead with the brush replacement. It is better to have the brushes wear out a little sooner than to leave the commutator strips to thin. Another item is to check the solder connections of the wire to the commutator strips. At time is the drill is run to hard the solder on one, or more, connections will melt & result in a poor connection. Use silver solder, jewelers solder, to resolder the connection. This solder has a higher melting point & will last far longer in your drill. All other points on lubrication, etc. should also be followed. Dial type motor speed controls for these types of AC/DC motors can be found at various hardware stores as well as Harbor Freight if you have one available.


    4 years ago on Introduction

    Nicely done. You might consider using an old tooth brush to clean the gears. Also I use lighter fluid (benzene) to help clean the grease, (paint thinner would work also). Again very nice Ible.


    Reply 4 years ago

    hey man,

    I usually have a wireless driver but lately had problems with it and switched to a pretty old black and Decker plug in driver(that does its job, not nearly as nice as the wireless) but it definitely gets the job done. Now I work on a good amount of projects so I'm looking for something proficient. Is it really that much of an improvement in performance or should I get a new solid wireless driver?

    thanks jd


    Reply 4 years ago

    also, as a note it's about a 5 year old plug in driver. I know I can spend under 100 for a good one but I'm always looking to save some money :) so if it's super cheap it's definitely worth it. anyways love ur upgrade info nevertheless


    Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

    hi buddy

    I would recommend you to go ahead and do overhauling as i have described here. it will definitely improve your drill as you have said its 5 yrs old i am sure that it will be full of dirt mixed with grease, be sure to check the aft bearing if found damaged then replace it(cost around 1 to 2 $ ). Mine is 1 year old and i have opened it twice this was my second time i opened it and as in the pic's you can see the internal condition. So go ahead and clean and don't forget to tell me how was it after overhauling if any problem then post the pic. I will try my best to help you out.


    4 years ago on Introduction

    You should also consider cleaning the commutator, where the brushes rub, of excess carbon. A small drop of oil in the bearings of the motor (at the back and front) will also help

    1 reply

    Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

    NO commutator should not be touched.

    If there is any dirt then remove it by brush but don't use any clothes. Since carbon brushes rubs over it if you will clean commutator the carbon deposits over it will also get cleaned away which will result in further rubbing of carbon brushes to make a New fine layer of carbon over it.

    Regarding Bearings there is only one ball bearing at the back which has to be replaced if worn out , Second thing is that never use oil for bearings always use grease for that you have to open it and replace it with new grease but mine is working fine so no need to open.


    Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

    Calcium thickened grease tends to be more stable and can handle moisture better. Most electric motors and electro-mechanical assemblies are assembled with calcium thickened grease. you can use NLGI - 2 .

    You can ask in hardware store for multipurpose grease also.


    4 years ago on Introduction

    This is perfect, a friend of mine just gave me an old drill that sounds like it's being tortured when you use it...looks like i know what i'm doing this weekend!


    4 years ago

    I have a 10 year old drill, non-branded as I guess, working like a devil, I use it a lot.