Got a stripped screw hole? Here is a way to fix this.
This works for any kind of wood and of course in fibreglass.
Tools you need:
- a drill
- a drill set
- a sharp chissel
Materials you need:
- micro balloons (use pure epoxy if you need a lot of strength)
Step 1: Drill Out the Old Holes.
I used a forstner bit, but you can also use a normal bit or even a spade bit. When using a forstner bit, you should pre drill the centre, since they don´t drill in the centre.
Step 2: Prepare for Epoxy
Epoxy is messy, and if it is thin, it will seep through tiny gaps and mess up everything. Tape is not epoxy proof!
I used a large bin bag to contain the epoxy. Since my epoxy mix is quite thick, it won´t run on me. If you want to see how this can go wrong, check out the video from my epoxy coffee table fail.
Step 3: Mix Up Epoxy.
When using epoxy there are four simple rules:
- Wear gloves. You will get this on your hands no matter how carefull you are.
- Make sure the ratio of hardner and epoxy is exactly right. Too much or too little will screw up the process.
- Mix until you think its enough, then mix some more.
- Epoxy cures with temperature. Room temp is ok, higher is better. Too high is not good, since epoxy creates its own heat. If your repair is well insulated, it could even smoke. In my experience this only happens with fast curing epoxy and if you use a lot of it.
Micro bubbles thicken up your coat without adding weight. They weigh next to nothing.
Step 4: Fill the Holes With Epoxy.
At the end, I use the cars scraper to flatten everything, but also to apply a bit of pressure to make the epoxy puddle dome upwards. So then the filler is raised above the surface. Once the epoxy has cured, you can flatten it.
Step 5: Flatten the Fills.
Check if the epoxy is hard yet. It takes about twice as long as a manufacturer tells you. You can test by pushing your finger nail into the epoxy. It should not leave behind a mark. Soft epoxy will gum um your sandpaper.
You can use sandpaper, or a chissel. Make sure it´s sharp though!
If you use sandpaper. I would glue or staple it to a piece of scrap wood to keep it flat.
Step 6: Re-attach and You Are Done!
I let you figure this one out. Every cabinet is different after all.
I should have made a mark where the hinges go onto the hatch before I removed it.