Fix Your Westinghouse SK-19H210S Television




My nice little 19" Westinghouse TV lasted just over a year before it died. It had been working beautifully until one day, it refused to turn on. The little power LED wouldn't even flicker. I called Westinghouse and they said that I was out of luck because it was no longer under warranty. Shoot.

After some Googling, I discovered that my particular model (SK-19H210S) is notorious for this exact problem. Every review I read told the same story: "It lasted a year and then died! Westinghouse told me I was S.O.L.!"

Time to break out the ol' screwdriver and take a peek under the hood.

My first suspect was the power supply board. Possibly just a blown fuse? After taking the TV apart, and inspecting the power supply, I found the culprit: a bad 2200uF capacitor. One lousy capacitor goes and the whole darn TV is useless! Sheesh...

I have a sneaking suspicion that Westinghouse bought a got bad batch of capacitors that only lasted for a year. If I am correct, than replacing this one little part could revive your poor little TV!

These instructions are intended for only this specific model of TV. Even if you do have the same model, it is still possible that the problem is something completely different. It might be worth a shot though. The worst you could do is break it. If its already broken then whats the difference?

A word of caution: You may encounter high voltages! Capacitors can store a lot of electricity. It is a good idea to discharge capacitors by shorting out their leads with a plastic handled screwdriver. Wear safety glasses while doing this!

Basic soldering

Safety glasses
Multimeter (for checking faulty components)
Phillips screwdriver
Plastic pry bars (For getting the case apart without scratching it. An old credit card might work too. Try a butter knife if you don't care about scratches)
Soldering Iron
Towel (to keep the screen from getting scratched)
Hammer (for if it doesn't work and you get frustrated)

One 2200uF 16v Electrolytic capacitor
Aluminum foil tape (duct tape or Gorilla tape might work in a pinch)

FREE (if you scrounge, $3 at the most if you don't)
If you have all the tools, then all you need is the replacement capacitor. I scrounged one from my pile of electronic junk.

If you don't have one on hand, try a local hobby shop or RadioShack. I did a quick search on eBay and found a lot of 5 for $2.50 including shipping.

Just make sure that the one you're using is a 2200uF electrolytic capacitor with a 16v working voltage.

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Step 1: Case Disassembly

Getting the case open can be tricky. Just pay attention to how it all comes apart because you will have to put it back together when you're done! Pay attention to which screws came from which holes.

If you are an experienced TV-disassembler, skip to step 7.

It helps to keep small parts in a dish or a cup.
Taping screws to a piece of paper and writing notes helps you remember where they go.
Marking or labeling parts and wires as you take them apart is helpful when it comes time to reassemble.

First, remove the front speaker cover by prying it downward. It is just snapped on, no screws.

Step 2: Remove the Stand.

Put down a towel to protect the screen and lay the TV on its front. Remove the stand. Pry off the small cover on the back and undo the 4 screws that hold the stand on.

Step 3: Remove the Front Case Half.

Once you have removed the stand, there are 6 more screws that hold the case together. Undo these and then turn the TV on its back. Use the pry bars to pry the front half of the case off, starting at the bottom.

Step 4: Unplug Controls.

On the right side, there is a small circuit board with all of the control buttons on it. Gently lift it up and carefully remove the four wires and the ribbon cable from it. Two of the four wires go to the speakers, one goes to the IR remote sensor and one goes to the power LED. These are marked on the circuit board. Just remember to reconnect them in the right places when you put it all back together.

There are four screws holding the screen in place. Undo these, and the whole electronics assembly lifts out.

Step 5: Electronics Disassembly

Lay the screen assembly down on the towel. Disconnect the thick ribbon cable and the backlight wires. Make sure you mark the backlight wires so that you can connect them to the correct places when you're done.

The back section that contains the power supply board and the controller board is only attached with foil tape. If you take your time and peel carefully, you can peel back the foil tape and then stick it back down when youre done.

I don't have that much patience. Fortunately, I had some aluminum foil tape on hand. Ordinary duct tape or other sturdy tape would work too. I just cut along the edges of the tape with an exacto knife and taped it back down when I was done. Just be careful if you choose to do it this way. There is a ribbon cable underneath the foil tape on one side. Don't cut this ribbon cable!

Step 6: Remove PCBs

The section containing the power supply board and the other electronics should lift free once the wires are disconnected and the tape is cut. Place the LCD panel in a safe place.

The power supply is plugged into the other PCB in such a way that you must remove both boards at the same time to avoid damaging the connection.

Unscrew the eight screws that hold the boards down. You will also need to unscrew the screws on the side with all of the inputs.

Once all of the screws are removed, carefully pry up the boards together. Make sure you keep the whole assembly straight or you will bend the connector pins between them.

Step 7: Locate and Replace the Capacitor!

The power supply board is the one with the power plug on it. Inspect it for other problems. This Instructible only covers replacing the faulty capacitor, but perhaps the problem on your particular set is a blown fuse or a bad backlight circuit.

Look for the 2200uF electrolytic capacitor on the power board. The top will likely appear a little bulged and it may look like it has been leaking.

All you need to do now is remove it and replace it with a shiny new one! Make sure you pay attention to the polarity. There is a white stripe on the side of electrolytic capacitors. This is the negative side. Make sure you place the new capacitor in the same direction as the original.

Take your soldering iron and melt the two solder joints below the capacitor. Wiggle it out until it comes free.

Take your new capacitor and solder it into place!

Step 8: Reassemble!

This is the hardest part of the whole process!

Theoretically, you can just follow this Instructable backwards and everything will go back together nicely and without any leftover screws!

In reality, it may take a couple of tries. Just be patient, don't force anything and make sure there are no wires getting pinched. Try to remember which screws went where...

Once it is all reassembled, plug it in and try 'er out! Hopefully, it will present you with a glorious blue glow!

If not, try taking it all apart again and make sure everything is put back together correctly. It took me several tries. There is still the possibility that your problem was something completely different in the first place.

If it still doesn't work despite all of your efforts, well then at least you tried. Get out your biggest hammer and fix that stinkin' TV as hard as you can! You might not be able to watch your favorite show when you're done, but at least it will be entertaining! ;)

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    21 Discussions


    3 years ago

    Thank you very much. This fixed mine! Your effort and info are much appreciated!


    4 years ago on Step 8

    Don't forget the fuse ? bottom of power board labeled F1 5 amps 1/8" x 3/16" thin film surface mount "chip" fuse (must be short enough so soldering iron can contact both board foil and fuse ends at same time. I cheated and used a 5 amp car fuse which (if it didn't blow fast enough) start a fire?) (soldered a couple wires to it, real pain to solder to board, use other connecting, larger solder points) Worked Now need to reset


    6 years ago on Step 8

    Don't forget, while hammering, play "Damn It Feels Good to Be a Gangsta" by he Geto Boys! Oh, and do it in a field away from prying eyes.


    6 years ago on Introduction

    Does anyone know the order of the back lite wires connectors ?
    i replaced the bulgingcapacitorr , now i turnTV on an the screen lights up an then off ?have sound but no picture after start up .


    7 years ago on Introduction

    A plastic tool isn't really necessary. Bare hands work exceptionally well. Apply pressure with your thumbs to release the locking tabs. Very well written. The 2200 uF cap was bulging. Was 10V part!


    7 years ago on Introduction

    Exactly the problem. It took me good part of an hour to dismantle the goddamn plastic assembly and I broke one of the latches but they are too many anyway. One missing will not make a difference.
    Now, I need to find in which box I stored my soldering iron in as I recently moved as well as a place to get the replacement capacitor. Can't thank you enough. If it was not your article, I wouldn't figure out how to disassemble this monstrosity and most probably chucked the whole thing into trash. Yay...


    7 years ago on Introduction

    Hello! now i was following your instructions as i stumbled into this problem as i worked my way through step 5 i noticed the four wires that should be on the left were actually six wires the two extra wires belonging to an extra backlight that apparently was put there by the person who tried to fix it before me. now my question here is would you happen to know how the wires are supposed to be connected??


    7 years ago on Introduction

    Thank you so much for this great tutorial. I bought this TV many years ago, and it died on me. Been meaning to get around to fix it, followed your instructions, and it worked marvelously the first try! Cost me $0.25 to get the capacitors from China, and they gave me an extra 9 of them for free :) Thanks again!


    7 years ago on Introduction

    I have the same model, however I have no sound, so you think the repair would be the same... or could this be a fuse problem?


    7 years ago on Introduction

    I have the same model, video is working but have no sound... do you think the repair would be the same?

    Fixed it!! I too had the same capacitor failure. Was going to trash the TV but found your instructions with a Google search. Step by step with photos was just what I needed, since I had never disassembled a TV before. Had to order the part via ebay because the nearest Radio Shack did not carry the 2200 uF capacitor. Bought 5 online for $4.79 with free shipping. Thanks for posting. I would not be afraid to do it again.


    7 years ago on Introduction

    Please help. I'm having trouble reconnecting the ribbon cable to the switch assy in ( Step 4 Unplug controls). The large ribbon inadvertantly came loose (on the "box" end) but that connector had a small flap that I lifted and slid the cable home and then pushed the flap back down, but if the switch assy connector has a flap, I can't lift it up without fear of breaking the connector. Is there a flap on that connector too?
    By the way the 2200 mfd cap is bad on my tv too. Your help will be very much appreciated. If I can't reconnect the flat ribbon, then all my efforts are in vain.

    2 replies

    Reply 7 years ago on Introduction

    There's no locking flap on the switch board. Its just a friction fit.

    Push the cable back into the slot until it feels like its gone all the way down. Just don't force it and make sure its facing the right way.

    Good luck!


    Reply 7 years ago on Introduction

    I did but its not making a connection as the Picture wont come on it does go in & stay there just not making a good connection.I have undone it & reinserted it at least 10 time.It does power on now which it didnt do before replacing the Capacitor just no picture just a white screen.


    7 years ago on Introduction

    This was a Big Help I got Power back But Picture wont work because ribbon cable wont connect.I was hoping by now someone would have been able to help.I guess nobody has a cure.


    7 years ago on Introduction

    I too have the big ribbon cable problem it dont want to stay in.

    Great article! Just used it to fix my son's monitor. Replaced all the capacitors that showed signs of bulging at the top and one that was leaking. The replaced originals were all CapXon electrolytic high temp (105c) capacitors: (2) 1000uF 25V, (2) 220uF 25V, (1) 2200uF 10V, (1) 1000uF 10V. I ordered the following replacement high temp radial capacitors from Parts Express via Amazon for $11.69 which included shipping: (2) 1000uF 25V, (2) 220uF 25V, (1) 2200uF 16V, (1) 1000uF 16V. I substituted the 10V with 16V. A lot cheaper than buying a new monitor. Thanks again.


    7 years ago on Introduction

    This guide was spot on. YOU ROCK!! Took a chance buying the capacitor before disassembling, but the culprit was definitely visibly bad. Your guide has given my TV life once more... THANK YOU!!!!!!


    8 years ago on Introduction

    U R the man!! Got a small issue here. My cap says its a 2200uF 10v. Did you originally start out with a 2200uF 16v or bump up to it. U R still the man.

    Thank U

    1 reply

    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

    The original was 16v. You could probably get away with a 10v cap, but there is a chance that it would get fried because it is rated for a lower voltage. I don't think it would hurt anything besides the capacitor itself. Its worth a try, if it doesn't work, you're just back where you started.

    Happy to help! I hope it works