Floating Bed on Heavy Duty Castors




Introduction: Floating Bed on Heavy Duty Castors

About: Design, Architechture and 3D Printing

Since ever I wanted to build my own bed which should have some practical features.

One requirement was to be able to move it around easily e.g. when you feel the need to throw a party and u need more space.

Secondly, it should have space underneath to hide some boxes (I checked average bed boxes which are usually around 15-20cm high).

If you like the design, feel free to rebuild it or leave a comment :)

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Step 1: Getting Started | Used Material and Tools

This material list shows material (dimensions) which you want to get for a standard bed size of 200 x 140 cm - you might need to recalculate the wood board dimensions in case of different wood depth or bed dimensions.


  • 4x wooden boards e.g. pine, birch or oak (the outside of the bed) 2x Front/Back: 2.8 x 17 x 147.1 cm and 2x Sides: 2.8 x 17 x 200 cm
  • 2x hard wood boards (for holding the frame) 3.5 x 15 x 141.5 cm
  • 4x bed corner fitting (metal)
  • 4x metal edge L profile ca. 15 cm long (for holding the frame)
  • 100x wood screws small (pan head): ca. 2cm or 0.8 inch length
  • 16x threaded screws M10 + 16x fitting thread nut + 32 fitting flat washer
  • 4x heavy duty castors height should be 18-20cm (with double break function) (around 50$)
  • Fine Sandpaper
  • slatted bed frame 140 x 200cm

  • a mattress to sleep on.


  • Wood oil or Wood stain
  • super fine Sandpaper (in case of oiling)


  • Screwdriver
  • Wood Saw (if not previously cut at the hardware shop)

Step 2: Double Check Dimensions

If you got the wood pre cut (what I already did at the hardware shop) you should put your wood parts together laying on the floor and check if the dimensions are okay for your slatted bed base and mattress. (You dont want to work a few hours to find out that in the end there is a mistake)

Step 3: Sanding the Wood Boards

First of all make sure to sand all the wood boards and get rid of sharp edges and wood fibers on the surface.
You can start with a rough sand paper and end with a fine one.

Step 4: Screwing the Frame Together

Now you can already start putting the frame together. Get the small wood screws and edge profiles first.

If you get a less hard wood (like pine) there is no need for predrilling holes. If you have a hard wood in mind like oak you might want to pre drill some holes.

On the pictures you can also see two latches which I added for a wider support area of the slatted bed frame.

The wheels are added in the very end - the holes for those should be predrilled since the wood of the wheel supporting structure should be a hard one (I actually used a terrace wood which is 3-4cm thick).

Wheel positioning:

I liked the "floating" effect which is why I put the wheels as much to the inner side as possible. (Roughly 35cm in every direction).

Step 5: Put Everything Together and Check for Stability

It’s time to make your first test. Put the slatted frame inside your new bedframe and check the stability.

Now is still time to adjust the position of the wheels (e.g. closer to the edges). Yes, this would mean that you have to drill new holes but this should be no problem since those won't be visible.

Step 6: Optional: Oiling or Staining

To give the wood a different look and protect it you can also put some oil or staining.

I actually found myself happy with the natural look. If you want to do it, there are plenty of tutorials out there e.g


Step 7: Impressions

... I almost forgot: Don’t forget to always put the brakes on before you go to bed. Especially when you live in San Francisco

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    2 Discussions


    1 year ago

    Very nice, simple bed frame. I like that little end table too. Nice stuff! :)


    Reply 1 year ago

    Thank you! The little table/chair is made by a berlin based manufacturer