Flushometer Lamp / Flush Lite : 11 Steps

Everyone has been in the public restroom and used a toilet that has a flushometer type water valve at one time or the other. Having been in the plumbing trade for many years, one of my jobs was repairing or replacing this type valve. Most of these brass valves ended up in the scrap bucket waiting to be recycled at the scrap yard. I thought this would be another way to re-purpose this item.

Step 1:

Step 2: Tools Needed

Tools, like money, are better to have more of than less. This list would be the minimum tools I used, but OK to have more.

pencil

tape measure

ruler - straight edge

screwdrivers - straight & phillips

razor knife

large groove joint pliers

file

sandpaper

saber saw w/wood & metal blades

drill

1 3/4" hole saw

3/8" drill bit

21/64" drill bit

1/8" x 27 pipe tap with holder

wood chisel

wire strippers

electrical tape

Step 3:

Step 4: Parts Needed

1"x8"x14"long board (I used an old shelf)

Plexiglas or Lexan 1/4"x 1 1/4"x5" long

3/4"x3/4"x2 1/2" block of wood (cut from end of board)

keyless lamp socket

1/8"x4" socket nipple

push button switch (SPST maintained contact switch)

lamp cord

3 small wire nuts

Flushometer Valve

1/4" x 2 1/2" winged toggle bolt

self stick button pads

Step 5: Disassemble Valve

Valve needs to be taken apart to remove the plastic and rubber components that made it work with water.

Using large pliers, unscrew large cap on top of valve, might require some effort to unscrew. Afterwards, remove the parts that are not brass.

Remove the smaller cap followed by the nut inside, then remove plastic/rubber parts inside.

The bottom section, when removed, has a rubber gasket that needs to remain to provide cushion to that section.

Step 6: Prepare Parts

Cut the 1x8 to approx. 13" long and cut a piece of the scrap to 3/4x3/4x2 1/2" long. Mark the 1x8 at 6"from the end and 3 3/4" from the side to drill a hole. Using hole saw, place tape 1/4" from teeth for depth to drill into wood. After drilling, use wood chisel or screw driver to remove section of wood.

Sand top of wood, remove dust and stain or paint.

Self stick pads were added to bottom of wood.

Step 7: More Parts

The 1/4" Plexiglas needs to be cut to 1 1/4" x 4 3/4" by using fine metal blade in saber saw. Drill 3/8" dia. hole 1 3/8" from the end for the switch.

The edges of the Plexiglas will need to be filed to fit inside the flushometer since it is round. Unscrew the handle to remove the plunger to test the plastic (the plastic needs to be on the back side of the brass nipples inside of the housing as per the foto)

After it is close, mount the switch to the Plexiglas and place inside housing to test the fit for the switch plunger and the handle plunger alignment.

Step 8: Switch Alignment

After the switch is aligned inside the housing and contacts the handle plunger assemble. install the 3/4" wood block behind the plastic to prevent movement. You may need to wrap tape to adjust thickness.

Step 9: Drill

Drill 21/64" hole at base for rubber grommet to be installed that electric cord goes thru.

Drill 21/64" hole in small cap, then using 1/8" pipe tap, thread cap and brass nut that already has hole in it.

Using 1/4" x 2 1/2" bolt , install winged toggle inside of base and secure to wood platform.

Step 10: Socket

Using suitable wire (or cut 12" from lamp cord) install wire after stripped off insulation to light socket with lamp nipple attached. Make sure to wrap electrical tape around screws. Install socket, wiring and nipple thru threaded cap and threaded nut into housing.

Route wiring thru housing to top of unit. Connect one lead from cord to either wire from lamp socket with wire nut. Connect other cord lead to one wire from switch with wire nut. Then connect remaining two wires together, make sure to tape all wire nuts when done.

Install top cap on unit, light bulb and small shade.